Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 07-17-19, 11:23 AM
  #20926  
gna
Count Orlok Member
 
gna's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,818

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, Raleigh Twenty, Raleigh Wyoming, Raleigh DL1, Schwinn Winter Bike

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 121 Post(s)
Liked 173 Times in 94 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
I suppose it would be best to measure the head tube to be sure, but the stepthrough and the 23" gents head tube look darn close to me.
Me too.
gna is offline  
Old 07-17-19, 02:10 PM
  #20927  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by markk900
Great job Peter. Saddle looks exactly like the Wrights on my wife’s 55 Standard Model K. How do you find the koolstop 45mm? I used the continentals and they are ok; the 45mm look better.
I expect the saddles are rebadged for Phillips, could well have been made by Wrights. I found the Kool-Stops on Amazon. they work really well and don't squeal. Was surprised they supply them, bought two sets so I have a back up set
Bought from Amazon.com.

Last edited by PeterLYoung; 07-17-19 at 02:16 PM.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 07-17-19, 02:14 PM
  #20928  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Very good job. That turned out beautifully. Hang on to the old bent trigger shifter. They can be repaired. I've fixed a bunch of em. I see you found the correct shifter cable in the old, pre-pinch bolt style. Very nice.
I have kept the shifter and now have a few others. The one on the Phillips is identical to the bent one. I was lucky to find the shifter cable, the outer is ribbed, wanted it smooth to match more closely the brake cables, but hell, you can't have everything. Thanks for your comments. Regards.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 07-18-19, 04:39 AM
  #20929  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
Just completed the refurbishment of my 1957 Phillips P2 step thru bike which I have previously written up and posted.

I don't know where it was kept but it survived in good cosmetic condition, all the chrome work polished up well after 48 hours in white vinegar.

The rims I polished up after dismantling the wheels, so much easier when no spokes are present. Had the wheels rebuilt with stainless spokes. The paintwork was all original with decals in 'fair' condition, some were flaking off so I compounded as much as I dare to clean up the paintwork and then clear lacquered the frame, fenders and chain guard.

All bearings were stripped cleaned and reassembled with new balls except those inside the replacement Sturmey Archer SW 3 Speed, which were in good shape (the original I thought had lost the change toggle so I obtained a couple more 1957 SW's and used the best one as a replacement to rebuild the rear wheel. When I stripped the original I found it still intact but by that time the wheel was rebuilt with the replacement hub). The replacement was stripped, cleaned and re assembled. It works fine, changes gear OK and engages correctly, it runs silently as it should.

The bike is all original except for the following:-

Tires & tubes

Spokes

3 Speed (same vintage as original)

3 Speed change cable

Brake cable outers (original inners reused, they were in good condition)

Brake blocks, replaced with Koolstop 45mm.

Test rode it last night and it rides beautifully, really pleased with how it turned out.

Some more Photos









That bike could be on the showroom floor.
The bucket kick stand is a nice touch.
gster is offline  
Likes For gster:
Old 07-18-19, 04:40 AM
  #20930  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
gster is offline  
Old 07-18-19, 09:53 AM
  #20931  
Bikes are okay, I guess.
 
thumpism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 9,128

Bikes: Waterford Paramount Touring, Giant CFM-2, Raleigh Sports 3-speeds in M23 & L23, Schwinn Cimarron oddball build, Marin Palisades Trail dropbar conversion, Nishiki Cresta GT

Mentioned: 69 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2647 Post(s)
Liked 2,445 Times in 1,557 Posts
Getting rid of my wife's bikes at her behest. Link below to the ad that includes a Sports in L19 that she won't be using. I wanted her to hang onto it but we have a different ladies' 3-speed (quainter and collectible-er) for her to ride if she decides to do so. Thanks!

The wife sez, "Sell my bikes."
thumpism is offline  
Old 07-18-19, 02:40 PM
  #20932  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
Nice work. Interesting that the cable ends are different from modern. At least you didn't have to deal with Raleigh ball end cables. Most times, the old brake cables have steel ends that are silver soldered on and can be reused on new inner cable. If you ever have to make up new inner cables with old ends, the whole trick is to glob a lot of silver solder past flux a good 3 inches up the cable so it won't blacken from the torch. I'm interested in knowing how the SW hub is working for you.
I have been riding the Phillips now it is completed and the SW Hub is functioning perfectly, no slipping, missed engagements and is eerily silent. The only thing I notice is that to change down a gear requires more trigger pressure than say an AW, this is due to the extra spring in the hub holding back the selector, it is very noticeable but not a problem once you get used to it. It is a shame it was a commercial/design failure as it a sweet ride.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 05:04 AM
  #20933  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
I have been riding the Phillips now it is completed and the SW Hub is functioning perfectly, no slipping, missed engagements and is eerily silent. The only thing I notice is that to change down a gear requires more trigger pressure than say an AW, this is due to the extra spring in the hub holding back the selector, it is very noticeable but not a problem once you get used to it. It is a shame it was a commercial/design failure as it a sweet ride.
From what I've read about this hub, mostly at master Sheldon's site, there is some conjecture that these hubs may have a production rather than design flaw. In which case there may be good ones and bad ones. Although the idea of round pawls that cam to lock rather then sprung ratchet type pawls seems suspect to me. Interesting hub though. I hope it continues working well.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 01:59 PM
  #20934  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South central Kansas
Posts: 86

Bikes: Western Flyer, Schwinn, Rollfast, Gambles, J.C. Higgins, Waverley, Crescent, Hercules, Nishiki, Huffy, Mohawk, AMF, Electra, A ridable replica hi-wheel and a few others.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times in 19 Posts
Huffy Sportsman



Just recently came into posession of a matching set of these, a men's and a Woman's. Both about in the same shape for $25 a peice. I decided to start on the women's first (to practice on!), as my daughter has taken a liking to it, and wants to join me on the next Lake Pepin tour. Haven't bothered yet to see what type of hub, just cleaned off enough to see that both are stamped Sturmey Archer, and '63 dated. Bike is mostly disassembled, and I have started polishing the paint to try to bring it back.
I apologize for the crappy indoor shot of the drive side of the bike, it would not let me upload the outdoors picture.... Grrr.
The chainguard was the first to get the "treatment," and it turned out pretty well I think. I have finished the front fender, stays and "hood ornament," but have not taken pictures as of yet, as I have not got the fender reassembled. Any suggestions? Or words of wisdom?
Iron Horse is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 02:16 PM
  #20935  
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,588

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 352 Post(s)
Liked 254 Times in 113 Posts
Originally Posted by Iron Horse
Just recently came into posession of a matching set of these, a men's and a Woman's. Both about in the same shape for $25 a peice. I decided to start on the women's first (to practice on!), as my daughter has taken a liking to it, and wants to join me on the next Lake Pepin tour. Haven't bothered yet to see what type of hub, just cleaned off enough to see that both are stamped Sturmey Archer, and '63 dated. Bike is mostly disassembled, and I have started polishing the paint to try to bring it back.
I apologize for the crappy indoor shot of the drive side of the bike, it would not let me upload the outdoors picture.... Grrr.
The chainguard was the first to get the "treatment," and it turned out pretty well I think. I have finished the front fender, stays and "hood ornament," but have not taken pictures as of yet, as I have not got the fender reassembled. Any suggestions? Or words of wisdom?
Sure. Remove the bottom bracket (don't use a hammer to extract the cotter pins- either make a press or get one from Bikesmith) and grease the bearings. Do the same for the headset bearings and front hub bearings. Spray a liberal amount of WD40 into the rear hub after everything else is sorted (including the inner tubes and tires) and take it for a ride of about a mile. Then remove the WD40 and the nastiness that comes with it and install a proper lube for the hub. Automatic transmission fluid works pretty good. Make sure the rear hub bearings have the slightest amount of run-out; if there is no play in them you will ruin the hub. Lubricate the brake cables. Replace the brake pads. Shine the chrome... and ride it.
Salubrious is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 03:01 PM
  #20936  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
NOS Kick Stand
Found at the corner store.
$3.99, made in Italy!
gster is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 03:13 PM
  #20937  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: South central Kansas
Posts: 86

Bikes: Western Flyer, Schwinn, Rollfast, Gambles, J.C. Higgins, Waverley, Crescent, Hercules, Nishiki, Huffy, Mohawk, AMF, Electra, A ridable replica hi-wheel and a few others.

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked 44 Times in 19 Posts
Originally Posted by Salubrious
Sure. Remove the bottom bracket (don't use a hammer to extract the cotter pins- either make a press or get one from Bikesmith) and grease the bearings. Do the same for the headset bearings and front hub bearings. Spray a liberal amount of WD40 into the rear hub after everything else is sorted (including the inner tubes and tires) and take it for a ride of about a mile. Then remove the WD40 and the nastiness that comes with it and install a proper lube for the hub. Automatic transmission fluid works pretty good. Make sure the rear hub bearings have the slightest amount of run-out; if there is no play in them you will ruin the hub. Lubricate the brake cables. Replace the brake pads. Shine the chrome... and ride it.
Thanks for the info on the 3 speed. I was going to tear it down and thoroughly clean it, but as I have never done a 3 speed before, your information is good to know. As to the teardown of the frame, I was a little ambiguous. I had everything removed from the frame save for the drive side bottom bracket cup. And as I have my breaker bar back, I will have that removed by the time I post this missive, thanks to Sir Sheldon and that nifty home-built removal device.
Iron Horse is offline  
Old 07-19-19, 03:30 PM
  #20938  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by Iron Horse
Thanks for the info on the 3 speed. I was going to tear it down and thoroughly clean it, but as I have never done a 3 speed before, your information is good to know. As to the teardown of the frame, I was a little ambiguous. I had everything removed from the frame save for the drive side bottom bracket cup. And as I have my breaker bar back, I will have that removed by the time I post this missive, thanks to Sir Sheldon and that nifty home-built removal device.
It's not necessary to remove the bottom bracket fixed cup for a regular servicing. You can reach in with a rag on a stick to clean it from the non drive side and grease on the spindle will hold the loose bearings in place as you insert the spindle from the non drive side through the fixed cup. This bike looks totally original and complete. Looks like it will clean up beautifully.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 07-20-19, 07:47 AM
  #20939  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Sun Birmingham

afternoon, does anyone here have information on Sun Cycles of Birmingham?
im trying to identify a possible bicycle form their range.
CTC53 is offline  
Old 07-20-19, 01:20 PM
  #20940  
Senior Member
 
browngw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Port Dover Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,535

Bikes: 1965 Dilecta Le Blanc, 1956 Royal Nord, 1972 Raleigh Sports, 1972 CCM Turismo,1976 SuperCycle Excalibur, 2014 Salsa Vaya, 2017 Felt DD70, 2019 Giant Lafree and others

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 346 Post(s)
Liked 541 Times in 220 Posts
Originally Posted by CTC53
afternoon, does anyone here have information on Sun Cycles of Birmingham?
im trying to identify a possible bicycle form their range.
There is a very good FaceBook page for Sun bikes from Birmingham and another page for Sun from Worksop. I recently sold my 1958 Sun Cresta and a search of C&V will bring it and others up.
1958 Sun Cresta by Sun Cycle Birmingham England.
__________________
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
browngw is offline  
Old 07-20-19, 01:41 PM
  #20941  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thank you for the link, Iíve just added a comment to that topic now. Much appreciated
CTC53 is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 07:03 AM
  #20942  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Still Out There
Here's a 1967 Raleigh 5 speed Sprite for sale here in Toronto

It has the double "throttle" shifter that I like.

By coincidence, it has a Northampton tag on it.
I lived in Northampton 1975-1977.

Seller is asking $325.00 (CDN) which I think is reasonable considering
-the rarity
-condition
-completeness
I've invited the seller to come to the bike show next weekend.
gster is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 08:25 AM
  #20943  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief
From what I've read about this hub, mostly at master Sheldon's site, there is some conjecture that these hubs may have a production rather than design flaw. In which case there may be good ones and bad ones. Although the idea of round pawls that cam to lock rather then sprung ratchet type pawls seems suspect to me. Interesting hub though. I hope it continues working well.
Yes, I read that too, there is probably truth in both arguments, incorrect lubrication (critical for free pawl movement) and the decline in precision manufacturing in the UK in the post war years, so that crucial uniformity in component dimensions was not maintained for production units. I have to say to my engineering eye the unit looks very well made with high quality finishes, bearing surfaces showed little signs of wear, though some light tracking on the cones as one would expect on any bicycle of its age. Apparently it was a lottery as to whether you got a good unit on your new bike or otherwise. I must have one of the good ones as when I took it apart, there were signs of wear on the pawls but it seemed pretty uniform and I was very careful when dismantling to keep orientation and location of the pawls unchanged on re-assembly, a tricky thing to do when they can easily fall out when dismantling the hub. Fortunately I had read everything I could on the hub and was very careful. Ridden the bike quite a few times now and gear hub performance is still very good, not one missed engagement so far! I guess one has to bear in mind I am only cruising and I ride it very sympathetically, maybe not a typical rider.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa

PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 10:05 AM
  #20944  
Senior member
 
Dan Burkhart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 8,095
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 932 Post(s)
Liked 634 Times in 359 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
I've invited the seller to come to the bike show next weekend.
Not sure where, but I thought I read somewhere that the show was cancelled. Good to know it's back on. I may wander down for a look.

Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 07-21-19 at 10:54 AM.
Dan Burkhart is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 10:28 AM
  #20945  
Senior Member
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 85 Times in 34 Posts
Originally Posted by gster
That bike could be on the showroom floor.
The bucket kick stand is a nice touch.
Thanks for your comment. If in doubt, use a bucket!!

Actually the bike came with a kick stand but I am not sure whether to refit it at present. There is nothing wrong with it but the clamp did slightly compress the frame and I do not want to further compress it, I might make up a pair of rubber/or similar mat'l pads to protect the frame, maybe!!
__________________
Cuius summa inventa

PeterLYoung is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 02:32 PM
  #20946  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
Yes, I read that too, there is probably truth in both arguments, incorrect lubrication (critical for free pawl movement) and the decline in precision manufacturing in the UK in the post war years, so that crucial uniformity in component dimensions was not maintained for production units. I have to say to my engineering eye the unit looks very well made with high quality finishes, bearing surfaces showed little signs of wear, though some light tracking on the cones as one would expect on any bicycle of its age. Apparently it was a lottery as to whether you got a good unit on your new bike or otherwise. I must have one of the good ones as when I took it apart, there were signs of wear on the pawls but it seemed pretty uniform and I was very careful when dismantling to keep orientation and location of the pawls unchanged on re-assembly, a tricky thing to do when they can easily fall out when dismantling the hub. Fortunately I had read everything I could on the hub and was very careful. Ridden the bike quite a few times now and gear hub performance is still very good, not one missed engagement so far! I guess one has to bear in mind I am only cruising and I ride it very sympathetically, maybe not a typical rider.
I find that after installing a new shifter cable that eventually (as the cable stretches) it will .\
slip out of second and a small re adjustment is needed.
I never stand on the pedals.
gster is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 03:41 PM
  #20947  
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 85 Posts
Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
Thanks for your comment. If in doubt, use a bucket!!

Actually the bike came with a kick stand but I am not sure whether to refit it at present. There is nothing wrong with it but the clamp did slightly compress the frame and I do not want to further compress it, I might make up a pair of rubber/or similar mat'l pads to protect the frame, maybe!!
Unfortunately, it's rare to find old roadsters with undamaged chainstays from kickstands. The stays on my 51 Rudge were a bit dented from a clunky aftermarket stand and I, like you, didn't want to make it any worse. In the 70s, Raleigh made a good decision and started using alloy ESGE stands on their upper end roadsters. These were made especially for Raleigh and the top plate has ears that extend down over the bottom plate to resist rotating. These are, hands down the best kickstands you can fit to a roadster. You don't need to tighten the bolt nearly as much as other stands and they are, by far, the most stable kickstand I've ever tried. There was a guy selling them NOS on eBay a while back...I bought 3. I use them on any roadster I care about. Original or not. They're light, don't crunch chainstays and I hate tippy unstable kickstands. Although, Raleighs didn't come with factory stands until the Sir Walter stand in 1954, so anything on my 51 would be aftermarket anyway. I highly recommend these.

__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Likes For BigChief:
Old 07-21-19, 05:20 PM
  #20948  
Phyllo-buster
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,825

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2284 Post(s)
Liked 2,017 Times in 1,240 Posts
I think I want it for the pump.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-bike/a...ationFlag=true
clubman is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 08:09 PM
  #20949  
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 9,335

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 117 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1936 Post(s)
Liked 1,041 Times in 625 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman
Dang right! Though I would certainly keep everything else too.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 07-21-19, 08:16 PM
  #20950  
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,567

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1027 Post(s)
Liked 419 Times in 283 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
Not sure where, but I thought I read somewhere that the show was cancelled. Good to know it's back on. I may wander down for a look.
Please do.
gster is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.