For the love of English 3 speeds...
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I wish we could order one of those new. I'm trying to figure out a course of action regarding my Clubman Peugeot project. I currently have a 40h 1953 Sturmey FW four speed, alloy shell hub awaiting a rebuild. The original plan was to build it into a new set of 700c wheels, like a Velocity Dyad (available in 40h) for my Peugeot A08 after I reset the dropouts. The bike would be used for city commuting, day rides into the countryside along paths and roads, and all bad weather riding (I have studded winter tires in 700c). However, a guy I know at a local shop has some original Rigida 700c alloy wheelsets in 36h. They would be more 'correct' for my Peugeot, but perhaps not appropriate for tough, long term use. I do have a 36h 1979 AW hub awaiting a rebuild that I could use with the Rigida rim, but I think a Clubman style bike deserves a 'cool' hub from the era if possible, and a four-speed. The AW I could use for parts for either my AG or FW later on.
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Another possibility is to use a Rigida 40-hole 650B rim, currently sold by xxcyle.com in France. I just built one up with a 40-hole alloy shell AW hub though it might end up with different internals at some point.

Cet article n'est plus commercialisé !
40H rims are really rare nowadays.
I've found the Japanese Grand Bois with their 700C Papillon 40H with single eyelets and the accompanying 700C Papillon 28/32/36H for the front with double eyelets.
Also available in 650B: 28/32/36H and 40H.
Quite spendy though at around €70 each + shipping.
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That would be a good option... were it not for them not selling it anymore. 
"This article is no longer sold!"
40H rims are really rare nowadays.
I've found the Japanese Grand Bois with their 700C Papillon 40H with single eyelets and the accompanying 700C Papillon 28/32/36H for the front with double eyelets.
Also available in 650B: 28/32/36H and 40H.
Quite spendy though at around €70 each + shipping.

"This article is no longer sold!"
40H rims are really rare nowadays.
I've found the Japanese Grand Bois with their 700C Papillon 40H with single eyelets and the accompanying 700C Papillon 28/32/36H for the front with double eyelets.
Also available in 650B: 28/32/36H and 40H.
Quite spendy though at around €70 each + shipping.
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In other news, today I took apart the Dynoluxe light system from the '50 Superbe. It is the one where you can either use the generator function, or switch to the batteries when stopped. It is powered by the AG. Anybody have experience with these? I plan to clean the contacts, add a little dielectric grease, find some bulbs, and see what happens. Bulb recommendations are somewhere in this thread. I'll find em.
This was inside the headlight:



This was inside the headlight:
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https://www.velocityusa.com/product/...liffhanger-584
Only comes in black, however, and about $67 per rim in the US.
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I realize this is neither vintage or collectable, but it looked cool, so I bought one. It is a three speed, and "english," so thought I would share and post here. My apologies if out of place.
Shakedown ride was tonight after 2 weeks of off and on assembly. Items noted. It needs to be geared down some. Not as bad as traditional AW geared hubs, but just a bit. I can cruise in high gear on the flats, but it's a workout. Any hill at all, and you are downshifting. The frame is too tall for me. Zero clearance standing over the frame. Bike shop was the one who suggested getting this size frame. Oh well, I'll just have to be careful. Bike looks to have originally designed with a one piece crank and changed to a sealed bottom bracket as an afterthought. It weighs about as much as my 69 sears three speed, so not too bad. Regearing will take care of most of that. Having never messed with disk brakes before, this was a bit of a challenge. I ended up after much fiddling and growling using a small dim flashlight held betwixt my toes shining up through the disk so that I could make small adjustments (make too big of adjustments, and the thing moves all over the place...grrr.) and get the allen screws tight with there still being light shining through on either side of the disk.
Hey, it worked...
The cables all need to be shortened by around 6 to 8 inches or so, but that is easy enough to do. One neat thing, the pedals are overhaulable! They were waaaay tight, so I took off the threaded aluminum caps to find a jam nut, washer and cone with 6 sides on the top for a socket. Sweet! All better now with a little adjustment.
Anyhoo, thought I would share my new toy with everyone.
Hope everyone had a good weekend!
What sized rims and tires?
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Polished Velocity Atlas
Velocity also makes Atlas in polished finish and the site says they come in 700c 40 hole. If you can live without the 40 hole alloy FW (I couldn't either), Universal Cycles has unpolished Atlas 700c in 36 hole for $72 USD.
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Velocity rims
I have a velocity rim on the rear wheel of our tandem. No exactly classic, but a great choice for how you want to use the bike.
I have a fork I am taking off a 55 Hercules to put on my 52 Hercules tourist. The donor fork was repainted red and I am trying to remove the red paint and flat black primer to get down to the factory black paint. Is this a fools errand? Does anyone have any experience doing this?
I have a fork I am taking off a 55 Hercules to put on my 52 Hercules tourist. The donor fork was repainted red and I am trying to remove the red paint and flat black primer to get down to the factory black paint. Is this a fools errand? Does anyone have any experience doing this?
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According to this amazon ad, 700x45c.
https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83
https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83
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I wish we could order one of those new. I'm trying to figure out a course of action regarding my Clubman Peugeot project. I currently have a 40h 1953 Sturmey FW four speed, alloy shell hub awaiting a rebuild. The original plan was to build it into a new set of 700c wheels, like a Velocity Dyad (available in 40h) for my Peugeot A08 after I reset the dropouts. The bike would be used for city commuting, day rides into the countryside along paths and roads, and all bad weather riding (I have studded winter tires in 700c). However, a guy I know at a local shop has some original Rigida 700c alloy wheelsets in 36h. They would be more 'correct' for my Peugeot, but perhaps not appropriate for tough, long term use. I do have a 36h 1979 AW hub awaiting a rebuild that I could use with the Rigida rim, but I think a Clubman style bike deserves a 'cool' hub from the era if possible, and a four-speed. The AW I could use for parts for either my AG or FW later on.
I love the way they mounted the front headlights on the Club bikes. If I decide on a generator hub for the Peugeot front wheel build, maybe I'll try and do that with a modern lighting system.
I love the way they mounted the front headlights on the Club bikes. If I decide on a generator hub for the Peugeot front wheel build, maybe I'll try and do that with a modern lighting system.
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What a nice and rare bike. I couldn't resist this project either. I too have trouble riding drop bars. I end up on the tops where there just isn't enough control. Still, one more great old Brit being rescued and back on the road is very satisfying. Good job.
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Truth is I almost passed on this one when I got there to see it.
It was in such a sad shape that I thought I'd just be getting a frame out
of the deal.
You really have to respect that British chrome.
A vinegar soak and a brass brush did wonders.
The seller has contacted me re: a prototype SA 3 speed hub
w/ a 5 cog hub that he has access to from the inventor's son.
I'm waiting to hear back from him.
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Re: My Failed Derailleur Project

I now know why 10 speeds have those big plastic discs on the rear wheel
and why sometimes they have a big chunk missing.
It's to stop the derailleur from smashing into the spokes...
I'd set the derailleur up with the SA throttle shifter.
Like a regular trigger it has a stop (indexed) and I thought
that the amount of travel would work the derailleur.
It didn't...
The shifter continued past the first stop pushing the derailleur
too far into the spokes.

I may re visit or wait for a proper vintage 2 cog derailleur
to show up.

I now know why 10 speeds have those big plastic discs on the rear wheel
and why sometimes they have a big chunk missing.
It's to stop the derailleur from smashing into the spokes...
I'd set the derailleur up with the SA throttle shifter.
Like a regular trigger it has a stop (indexed) and I thought
that the amount of travel would work the derailleur.
It didn't...
The shifter continued past the first stop pushing the derailleur
too far into the spokes.

I may re visit or wait for a proper vintage 2 cog derailleur
to show up.
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That is bad news. I was planning to build a new wheelset for my Superbe in a year or two with those to lighten it up and make it ready for another few decades of service.
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It looks like there are limit screws on that derraileur like modern derraileurs, were those adjusted when the derraileur was installed?
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Other than needing to be geared down, currently a 42/18. I plan on dropping to a 42/20 this weekend if all goes well.
The chain stays come out rather abruptly, then run back to the dropouts. The way my feet sit on the pedals, I am occasionally hitting the chain stays with my heels. So I need to train myself to kick my heels out a bit. Something interesting, I have several bikes with Shimano 3 speeds, and to downshift, you roll the shifter forward, and first is the default "no tension" gear (I suppose so that if your shifter fails, you can get anywhere, just slowly). The Sturmey archer is opposite. Rolling back the shifter downshifts, and the default "no tension" gear is 3rd or high gear. That would be bad if you're on a hill and the shifter broke.
I do enjoy the bike, it rides nice, and has a good balance to it. If I had the choice to do it again, I would, but just with a medium frame instead of large. No clearance. Stops are done with some forethought...

According to this amazon ad, 700x45c.
https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83
https://www.amazon.com/Raleigh-Bikes.../dp/B07BBPKD83
I think the only thing this bike lacks, is a rear rack in the same anodized(?) copper as the handlebars. I like the handlebars, but without something at the other end of the bike the same color, the bike looks (to me) a bit unbalanced color wise.
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Ah, sorry about that! I do see that Velocity is making a 650B caliper-brake compatible rim in 40-hole drilling:
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/...liffhanger-584
Only comes in black, however, and about $67 per rim in the US.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/...liffhanger-584
Only comes in black, however, and about $67 per rim in the US.
Wouldn't the thing to do be just set it up so when the lever was pulled as far as it would go it was enough to do the shift but no more? Pretty easy solution...
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