For the love of English 3 speeds...
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50's 60's Hermes? please help me Identify..
Hello to all. My late Aunt left me a Hermes bicycle that, after having tuned up, rides excellent.
I would appreciate some help in identifying the year and model so I can try to find original accessories.
Was told the bike had a tire pump at the very least and I would like to keep it as authentic as possible.
Possibly add some "bells and whistles". Any Help on this is would be fantastic. Thanks, Carl



Might spell "sport" ?
I would appreciate some help in identifying the year and model so I can try to find original accessories.
Was told the bike had a tire pump at the very least and I would like to keep it as authentic as possible.
Possibly add some "bells and whistles". Any Help on this is would be fantastic. Thanks, Carl




Might spell "sport" ?
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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The Sturmey hub shell should have a date code stamped into it that probably approximates the bike's manufacture date. 71 1, for example, would mean it had been made in January of 1971. Unless the rear wheel had been replaced at some point that is a good estimate for the bike as well.
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Found this nice little Sports at an estate sale this morning. Sticker from a local shop, 71 hub date, broken gear cable and a $75 price tag. We don't need another and I'm not a flipper so I let it go and only discovered on the way out that everything is 50% off today, so $37.50. I still passed. Hope someone deserving gets it. I can see it being sent to the dump. Will have to check again tomorrow.

Barred @ Velocipedesalon
My 1970 Raleigh Sports has the OE Sturmey-Archer hub with date of 69 14; February 1970, yours March 1970 (sourced from decades long English restorer of vintage S-A hubs). Don't ask me why; I've only seen this odd dating on "69" hubs; makes me want to see if there's a "70" marked hub with a January, February, or March date code. I don't know how long this anomaly existed. I have 2 hubs without any code, year or month, another anomaly from 1941-1942 apparently.
Last edited by HPL; 10-12-19 at 06:41 PM.
Barred @ Velocipedesalon
HERCULES "ROADSTER" '40s-'50s(?)
"Pre-Raleigh" Hercules (possibly "Gent's Artisan", or "Roadster Special") original condition except bar wrap, pedals, tires/tubes, and pump(?). "Bolt-on" seatstays, rod (roller) brakes, Hercules 3 speed hub and "Her-cu-matic" shifter, Dunlop rims, Hercules saddle. Refitting with Brooks' B.17s saddle and front/rear tool bags, and rear sidebags. Just need some period "Hercules" grips (white "DARE"?) and pedals (make?), rear rack, and pump (if not proper vintage). Repairing front wheel, couple of broken/missing spokes; still rides well.
Last edited by HPL; 10-12-19 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Photo
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Thank you.
Research tells me that very few of these "kit" boats survive due to
a number of reasons;
-poor workmanship
-poor glue
-poor filler
This one seems to have spent most
of it's life stored in a shed.
All of the old filler on the hull was picked out and replaced
with modern epoxy filler.
We will see.....
Research tells me that very few of these "kit" boats survive due to
a number of reasons;
-poor workmanship
-poor glue
-poor filler
This one seems to have spent most
of it's life stored in a shed.
All of the old filler on the hull was picked out and replaced
with modern epoxy filler.
We will see.....
When fiberglass came out, people just cast these boats off, set adrift or abandoned. Friends of mine say they saw many set afire and pushed off into the river. Sad!
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"Pre-Raleigh" Hercules (possibly "Gent's Artisan", or "Roadster Special") original condition except bar wrap, pedals, tires/tubes, and pump(?). "Bolt-on" seatstays, rod (roller) brakes, Hercules 3 speed hub and "Her-cu-matic" shifter, Dunlop rims, Hercules saddle. Refitting with Brooks' B.17s saddle and front/rear tool bags, and rear sidebags. Just need some period "Hercules" grips (white "DARE"?) and pedals (make?), and pump (if not proper vintage). Repairing front wheel, couple of broken/missing spokes; still rides well.

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Barred @ Velocipedesalon
Hello to all. My late Aunt left me a Hermes bicycle that, after having tuned up, rides excellent.
I would appreciate some help in identifying the year and model so I can try to find original accessories.
Was told the bike had a tire pump at the very least and I would like to keep it as authentic as possible.
Possibly add some "bells and whistles". Any Help on this is would be fantastic. Thanks, Carl

Might spell "sport" ?
I would appreciate some help in identifying the year and model so I can try to find original accessories.
Was told the bike had a tire pump at the very least and I would like to keep it as authentic as possible.
Possibly add some "bells and whistles". Any Help on this is would be fantastic. Thanks, Carl

Might spell "sport" ?
I believe it's a "Sports" model per the frame marking. Previous poster would be correct for determining the year give or take one (more give) if original hub, which it more than likely is. Similar to the Raleigh "Sports" if not nearly identical for the same model year.
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Speaking of short rod brake grips...Here's something odd that I found while doing my usual "vintage grips" search on eBay. These "R" grips are very close to the mid to late 50s Raleigh grips and are the best option I know of if you want an authentic period look and feel. Here, they are offered in pairs of one regular one short. Why anyone would want one short and one long grip is beyond me, but a pair of those short versions would work well on the older rod brake bikes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bic...oAAOSwBNtbC7oE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bic...oAAOSwBNtbC7oE
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Speaking of short rod brake grips...Here's something odd that I found while doing my usual "vintage grips" search on eBay. These "R" grips are very close to the mid to late 50s Raleigh grips and are the best option I know of if you want an authentic period look and feel. Here, they are offered in pairs of one regular one short. Why anyone would want one short and one long grip is beyond me, but a pair of those short versions would work well on the older rod brake bikes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bic...oAAOSwBNtbC7oE

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bic...oAAOSwBNtbC7oE
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1951 Raleigh Sports "C" Tourist

Just picked this up off FB Marketplace. It needs some work, looks to have been sitting for a while. AW hub dated 51 9.



The right seat stay is bent and the left crankarm pedal threads are a little messed up. Left pedal threading looks good, maybe it was cross threaded or someone didn't realize it was a left hand thread.


Someone really did a job on the lamp bracket and the original rear brakes are gone.

Front fender decal still there.



Last edited by BocaJr; 10-13-19 at 12:53 PM.
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Nice day for a ride. The weather is starting to turn here in western New England.



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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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The brakes came from @oldroads, wheels came from the UK via eBay, another forum member in Canada provided the FG 4-speed (unfortunately, can't find record of who it was), while @nlerner provided the bars and I believe the crankset as well. The pump is a '90s plastic AFA which looks good enough to fill the frame, while the grips are Peter C. Kohler's very cushy reproductions. Cables are a mix of homespun Shimano with soldered ends and the front is an NOS Clarks cable from Gordon Bradbury.
For the longest time, it ran Duro whitewalls too. This was taken in 2009, when the paint on the chaincase hadn't flaked off and before I had located a headlight for it. I'd really like to find a chaincase that still wears its original Raleigh enamel - the one on it is the only thing I could find at the time (lost out on the original when I bought the bike on eBay. Seller piecemealed the thing). I bought a replacement from eBay recently, and it turned out to be green. Not that I'd object to a 1950's 23" green Sports or Superbe...

The nice - if a bit later period - rubberblock pedals served well for a long time, though they would chronically roll on their shafts. Then, one day, the block on one of the pedals decided to split and jettison itself into the great unknown. Decided to go with the MKS pedals only because they take the abuse I give them a lot better.
Those whitewalls became less-than advisable for use in mid 2018, when I decided that creme tires were the ticket.

Headlight used to work too, but I'm not sure if I kept blowing bulbs or whether the contacts on the PCB lost continuity. Haven't had time to check, and it is more or less moot given that it doesn't have a rear lamp.
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 10-13-19 at 07:40 PM.
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Fixing those deficiencies brings that boat up to Muskokas 'Lake of Bays' standards. Very envious.
My wife and I were on just such a mahogany runabout when Elizabeth felt sick. I asked whether it was the margarita she'd had earlier and she gave me that look ...you know, the one that sends you immediately to the pharmacy for the pregnancy test? Yup, child #2 at 40 years old.
My wife and I were on just such a mahogany runabout when Elizabeth felt sick. I asked whether it was the margarita she'd had earlier and she gave me that look ...you know, the one that sends you immediately to the pharmacy for the pregnancy test? Yup, child #2 at 40 years old.
OT
The boat had a fairly successful float test this weekend
i.e. it didn't sink!
Some very small/slow leaks to address in the spring

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I built this one 13 years ago. There were a few scattered build threads on BikeForums about it, but I haven't been able to find them. This is what it looked like when it arrived from eBay (excluding the rear wheel, which I'd just built and hung in this picture) - frame, fork, and fenders only. It came from a barn in New York.
<---image--->
The brakes came from @oldroads, wheels came from the UK via eBay, another forum member in Canada provided the FG 4-speed (unfortunately, can't find record of who it was), while @nlerner provided the bars and I believe the crankset as well. The pump is a '90s plastic AFA which looks good enough to fill the frame, while the grips are Peter C. Kohler's very cushy reproductions. Cables are a mix of homespun Shimano with soldered ends and the front is an NOS Clarks cable from Gordon Bradbury.
For the longest time, it ran Duro whitewalls too. This was taken in 2009, when the paint on the chaincase hadn't flaked off and before I had located a headlight for it. I'd really like to find a chaincase that still wears its original Raleigh enamel - the one on it is the only thing I could find at the time (lost out on the original when I bought the bike on eBay. Seller piecemealed the thing). I bought a replacement from eBay recently, and it turned out to be green. Not that I'd object to a 1950's 23" green Sports or Superbe...
<---image--->
The nice - if a bit later period - rubberblock pedals served well for a long time, though they would chronically roll on their shafts. Then, one day, the block on one of the pedals decided to split and jettison itself into the great unknown. Decided to go with the MKS pedals only because they take the abuse I give them a lot better.
Those whitewalls became less-than advisable for use in mid 2018, when I decided that creme tires were the ticket.
<---image--->
Headlight used to work too, but I'm not sure if I kept blowing bulbs or whether the contacts on the PCB lost continuity. Haven't had time to check, and it is more or less moot given that it doesn't have a rear lamp.
<---image--->
The brakes came from @oldroads, wheels came from the UK via eBay, another forum member in Canada provided the FG 4-speed (unfortunately, can't find record of who it was), while @nlerner provided the bars and I believe the crankset as well. The pump is a '90s plastic AFA which looks good enough to fill the frame, while the grips are Peter C. Kohler's very cushy reproductions. Cables are a mix of homespun Shimano with soldered ends and the front is an NOS Clarks cable from Gordon Bradbury.
For the longest time, it ran Duro whitewalls too. This was taken in 2009, when the paint on the chaincase hadn't flaked off and before I had located a headlight for it. I'd really like to find a chaincase that still wears its original Raleigh enamel - the one on it is the only thing I could find at the time (lost out on the original when I bought the bike on eBay. Seller piecemealed the thing). I bought a replacement from eBay recently, and it turned out to be green. Not that I'd object to a 1950's 23" green Sports or Superbe...
<---image--->
The nice - if a bit later period - rubberblock pedals served well for a long time, though they would chronically roll on their shafts. Then, one day, the block on one of the pedals decided to split and jettison itself into the great unknown. Decided to go with the MKS pedals only because they take the abuse I give them a lot better.
Those whitewalls became less-than advisable for use in mid 2018, when I decided that creme tires were the ticket.
<---image--->
Headlight used to work too, but I'm not sure if I kept blowing bulbs or whether the contacts on the PCB lost continuity. Haven't had time to check, and it is more or less moot given that it doesn't have a rear lamp.

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Found this nice little Sports at an estate sale this morning. Sticker from a local shop, 71 hub date, broken gear cable and a $75 price tag. We don't need another and I'm not a flipper so I let it go and only discovered on the way out that everything is 50% off today, so $37.50. I still passed. Hope someone deserving gets it. I can see it being sent to the dump. Will have to check again tomorrow.


-parts
-or a nice bike to gift someone.
It all depends on what shape the rims are in these days.
I'm turning into the neighbourhood "bike guy"...
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I built this one 13 years ago. There were a few scattered build threads on BikeForums about it, but I haven't been able to find them. This is what it looked like when it arrived from eBay (excluding the rear wheel, which I'd just built and hung in this picture) - frame, fork, and fenders only. It came from a barn in New York.

The brakes came from @oldroads, wheels came from the UK via eBay, another forum member in Canada provided the FG 4-speed (unfortunately, can't find record of who it was), while @nlerner provided the bars and I believe the crankset as well. The pump is a '90s plastic AFA which looks good enough to fill the frame, while the grips are Peter C. Kohler's very cushy reproductions. Cables are a mix of homespun Shimano with soldered ends and the front is an NOS Clarks cable from Gordon Bradbury.
For the longest time, it ran Duro whitewalls too. This was taken in 2009, when the paint on the chaincase hadn't flaked off and before I had located a headlight for it. I'd really like to find a chaincase that still wears its original Raleigh enamel - the one on it is the only thing I could find at the time (lost out on the original when I bought the bike on eBay. Seller piecemealed the thing). I bought a replacement from eBay recently, and it turned out to be green. Not that I'd object to a 1950's 23" green Sports or Superbe...

The nice - if a bit later period - rubberblock pedals served well for a long time, though they would chronically roll on their shafts. Then, one day, the block on one of the pedals decided to split and jettison itself into the great unknown. Decided to go with the MKS pedals only because they take the abuse I give them a lot better.
Those whitewalls became less-than advisable for use in mid 2018, when I decided that creme tires were the ticket.

Headlight used to work too, but I'm not sure if I kept blowing bulbs or whether the contacts on the PCB lost continuity. Haven't had time to check, and it is more or less moot given that it doesn't have a rear lamp.
-Kurt

The brakes came from @oldroads, wheels came from the UK via eBay, another forum member in Canada provided the FG 4-speed (unfortunately, can't find record of who it was), while @nlerner provided the bars and I believe the crankset as well. The pump is a '90s plastic AFA which looks good enough to fill the frame, while the grips are Peter C. Kohler's very cushy reproductions. Cables are a mix of homespun Shimano with soldered ends and the front is an NOS Clarks cable from Gordon Bradbury.
For the longest time, it ran Duro whitewalls too. This was taken in 2009, when the paint on the chaincase hadn't flaked off and before I had located a headlight for it. I'd really like to find a chaincase that still wears its original Raleigh enamel - the one on it is the only thing I could find at the time (lost out on the original when I bought the bike on eBay. Seller piecemealed the thing). I bought a replacement from eBay recently, and it turned out to be green. Not that I'd object to a 1950's 23" green Sports or Superbe...

The nice - if a bit later period - rubberblock pedals served well for a long time, though they would chronically roll on their shafts. Then, one day, the block on one of the pedals decided to split and jettison itself into the great unknown. Decided to go with the MKS pedals only because they take the abuse I give them a lot better.
Those whitewalls became less-than advisable for use in mid 2018, when I decided that creme tires were the ticket.

Headlight used to work too, but I'm not sure if I kept blowing bulbs or whether the contacts on the PCB lost continuity. Haven't had time to check, and it is more or less moot given that it doesn't have a rear lamp.
-Kurt
I'm not keen on the prices I see on Amazon....
I would gladly buy 4 pairs to stock up.
P.S
I use your site frequently for reference.
Thanks
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My 1970 Raleigh Sports has the OE Sturmey-Archer hub with date of 69 14; February 1970, yours March 1970 (sourced from decades long English restorer of vintage S-A hubs). Don't ask me why; I've only seen this odd dating on "69" hubs; makes me want to see if there's a "70" marked hub with a January, February, or March date code. I don't know how long this anomaly existed. I have 2 hubs without any code, year or month, another anomaly from 1941-1942 apparently.
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love the Creams
Loves the Creams....they just look more authentic on old English rides.. Julius in Ohio
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-Kurt