For the love of English 3 speeds...
10-14-19, 06:19 PM
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10-14-19, 06:23 PM
Bikes are okay, I guess.
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It was nice. I'd have bought it but had no one in need of such a bike, I have parts and have no place to put it in the meantime. Went by again the next morning and stopped by to see if the sale was still on or if the bike had been tossed in the big dumpster. Nope. Problem solved.
10-14-19, 06:49 PM
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Make no mistake, the whitewalls were my choice 13 years ago.
-Kurt
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Last edited by cudak888; 10-14-19 at 07:11 PM.
10-14-19, 06:50 PM
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1958 Raleigh Sports with the FW hub. One of my favorite bikes, and a nice day for a ride to see the leaves.
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10-14-19, 07:46 PM
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It's all a matter of aesthetics. I'd probably go with gumwalls on the Superbe again, but Schwalbe doesn't make Delta Cruisers in gumwall. I've got Panaracer Col de La Vie on my other three speed (Robin Hood), which is the less "utility" build.
10-14-19, 07:56 PM
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I have MKS Sylvan Touring on the Sports. Still affordable at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/MKS-Sylvan-To.../dp/B003Z6PGZU
-Kurt
10-14-19, 08:16 PM
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In another thread, someone mentioned the VP-365 pedal as a lower-priced alternative to the MKS touring. Not sure that's true in Canadian dollars, however.
10-14-19, 08:35 PM
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$64 for Sylvan Touring, no VP-365 available.
These are Pacific rim products that flow through the US and then to Canada, even if it's a Canadian Subsidiary. NSF Food equipment is a biggest scam that I've had to beal with and follows this pattern. Can't get FOB to Canada, and the US marks up crazy tariffs. Bloody transparent shell game.
These are Pacific rim products that flow through the US and then to Canada, even if it's a Canadian Subsidiary. NSF Food equipment is a biggest scam that I've had to beal with and follows this pattern. Can't get FOB to Canada, and the US marks up crazy tariffs. Bloody transparent shell game.
Last edited by clubman; 10-14-19 at 08:41 PM.
10-14-19, 09:12 PM
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-Kurt
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10-15-19, 06:06 AM
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10-15-19, 06:46 AM
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Prices for MKS pedals seems to have gone up lately here in the US as well. Amazon has the "Touring" at 30 USD and the 3000R rubber block at 35 USD
I use the touring pedals on any bike I intend to put serious mileage on, but when I want to keep the traditional look I like the 3000R. There isn't another rubber block pedal sold new that I know of that I would use on a vintage English roadster. Not only are they good quality, but the ugly rectangular crimp plate that keeps the reflector located is at the back of the pedal where you don't see it. The front plate is the traditional rounded corner diamond shape. I wonder why Raleigh didn't think of this when they redesigned their pedals in the 70s. There's just something about those chromed, rectangular end plates that looks wrong on a vintage bike. Never liked them.
I use the touring pedals on any bike I intend to put serious mileage on, but when I want to keep the traditional look I like the 3000R. There isn't another rubber block pedal sold new that I know of that I would use on a vintage English roadster. Not only are they good quality, but the ugly rectangular crimp plate that keeps the reflector located is at the back of the pedal where you don't see it. The front plate is the traditional rounded corner diamond shape. I wonder why Raleigh didn't think of this when they redesigned their pedals in the 70s. There's just something about those chromed, rectangular end plates that looks wrong on a vintage bike. Never liked them.
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Last edited by BigChief; 10-15-19 at 07:16 AM.
10-15-19, 08:21 AM
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The 3000R and 3000S are decent pedals. I usually hunt for the 3000S on sale via eBay or similar. They seem to go in and out of stock, and on and off of sale. The R is easier to find and usually a bit cheaper when you find it. But the S is still pretty reasonable when they turn up on sale. Sylvan rat trap type is also nice - I have them on my drop bar Raleighs and they do pretty well.
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10-15-19, 09:30 AM
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Here are some pics of a French-ish 3-speed IGH project that I finished up yesterday. Base is an early 70s Jeunet 630 frame that I bought from a forum member. The lack of a derailleur hanger, Reynolds steel tubing, and 650B conversion potential made it particularly useful. It's been painted a lovely battleship grey, and the fork it came with is not original, but it's English-threaded and sized, which made it easier to fit with headset and stem than if it were French.
Rear hub is a 40-hole alloy shell AW w/ 20t cog, Nervar 122bcd crankset with 45t ring, MKS sneaker pedals, Weinmann 750 CP brake rear w/ extender brake shoes for a bit more reach, front Weinmann CP brake with steel straddles, Shimano brake levers (sorry, but I really prefer the performance of aero levers!), Campy 26.4mm seatpost, Brooks saddle recovered by @rhm, some old GB touring bars, Nitto technomic stem, Compass 650b x 38mm tires, front Synergy rim w/ S-P dyno hub, B&M front lamp, Sturmey-Archer bar-end shifter. Total weight is a shade over 24 lbs, which is pretty darn good for a bike with both an IGH and a front dynamo.
I've only taken it for a short shake-down ride, but it felt very good so far. Everything functioned as it should, and the ride was stable and smooth. Those bars are very narrow; I usually prefer narrow bars, but these are pushing that preference! I'll try commuting on it a few times this week and see what needs to be changed, if anything.
Rear hub is a 40-hole alloy shell AW w/ 20t cog, Nervar 122bcd crankset with 45t ring, MKS sneaker pedals, Weinmann 750 CP brake rear w/ extender brake shoes for a bit more reach, front Weinmann CP brake with steel straddles, Shimano brake levers (sorry, but I really prefer the performance of aero levers!), Campy 26.4mm seatpost, Brooks saddle recovered by @rhm, some old GB touring bars, Nitto technomic stem, Compass 650b x 38mm tires, front Synergy rim w/ S-P dyno hub, B&M front lamp, Sturmey-Archer bar-end shifter. Total weight is a shade over 24 lbs, which is pretty darn good for a bike with both an IGH and a front dynamo.
I've only taken it for a short shake-down ride, but it felt very good so far. Everything functioned as it should, and the ride was stable and smooth. Those bars are very narrow; I usually prefer narrow bars, but these are pushing that preference! I'll try commuting on it a few times this week and see what needs to be changed, if anything.
10-15-19, 05:07 PM
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Hey Neal! Long time, no see. Curious about your Jeunet conversion! Coincidentally, I converted an old Jeunet 630 to 3-spd IGH awhile back, but never tried to convert it to 650B. It's limited by its clearances for anything larger than 700x28. The front fork (original) has so little vertical clearance that I had to file the daruma nut so that the tire didn't rub, but it has plenty of width. The rear triangle has gobs of vertical room and requires a long-reach brake, but the chain stays are far too narrow. Can't win! Too bad, because I find the Reynolds frame to be supremely flexy and fast. It would probably work best configured as the skinny tire road bike it was intended to be.
10-15-19, 08:58 PM
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The 3000R and 3000S are decent pedals. I usually hunt for the 3000S on sale via eBay or similar. They seem to go in and out of stock, and on and off of sale. The R is easier to find and usually a bit cheaper when you find it. But the S is still pretty reasonable when they turn up on sale. Sylvan rat trap type is also nice - I have them on my drop bar Raleighs and they do pretty well.
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10-16-19, 09:58 AM
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postage/exchange/duties/taxes etc will double + the listed price.
amazon Canada has the MKS listed for $40.00 Canadian but i think that's high as well...
On another note
still out There
a 1971 Raleigh sports listed here for $150.00
Although it appears to have a stamped eye on the heron...
10-17-19, 10:53 AM
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Good News!
Price dropped to $1600.00!
Price dropped to $1600.00!
10-17-19, 10:57 AM
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Another Bargain!
Raleigh Tourist for only $600.00!
Seller says the serial number is intact, which we all know is a big selling point.
Raleigh Tourist for only $600.00!
Seller says the serial number is intact, which we all know is a big selling point.
10-17-19, 11:06 AM
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10-17-19, 04:54 PM
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This 1972 step-through frame sat for years in the seller's shed. A bunch of dead earwigs fell out of nooks and crannies once I turned it over for a look see. This one might be getting a strip and re-paint to her colour specifications. She fancies early 80s Trek grayish blue...I might have many questions in the future since this will be my first paint job. AW hub will get a rebuild and synthetic 5W30 at riding time alongside my '53 FW for the Peugeot and '50 AG for the old Raleigh as I start winter projects. Lots of cold nights coming here in Ottawa for tinkering with old bikes. Bunch of photos coming this weekend.
10-17-19, 06:33 PM
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10-17-19, 06:38 PM
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10-17-19, 06:59 PM
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10-18-19, 09:29 AM
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The interesting thing is that I bought two sets of Duro whitewall tires within a few months of each other for two different bikes. The set on the 1958 Sports had a lot of premature cracking of the sidewalls that kept worsening. The set I put on my 1970 Sprite were better. They were the same model of tire and bought fairly close together in time. With a cheaper tire, I guess you get the quality control variations too. I moved on from the Duro whitewalls to newer Schwalbe whitewalls, and the ride improved greatly on the 1958 Sports. You really do gain a lot when you move from the really cheap tires to more of a mid-level tire (I guess the Schwalbe is more mid level than economy level for these).
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
10-18-19, 11:01 AM
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The interesting thing is that I bought two sets of Duro whitewall tires within a few months of each other for two different bikes. The set on the 1958 Sports had a lot of premature cracking of the sidewalls that kept worsening. The set I put on my 1970 Sprite were better. They were the same model of tire and bought fairly close together in time. With a cheaper tire, I guess you get the quality control variations too. I moved on from the Duro whitewalls to newer Schwalbe whitewalls, and the ride improved greatly on the 1958 Sports. You really do gain a lot when you move from the really cheap tires to more of a mid-level tire (I guess the Schwalbe is more mid level than economy level for these).
Meanwhile, here's an interesting read about bike tires. Bicycle road tires, do they go bad?
