PeterLYoung 

Yes you are correct, that is the right one, there are several on eBay, not sure if it uses same cable end as SA and the one complete with cable is asking £65 and I don't want to pay that much. Will keep looking.

PeterLYoung 

What I usually do is try removing the inner cable and inject grease down the outer with my fine nozzle grease gun, smear the inner cable and re thread. This really only works if the cable does not fray at the end. If it is frayed I will try to work thin oil down it without removing the inner, slow process but works with patience.

oldveloman

I fitted a normal Sturmey cable to mine a few years ago.

Peter

PeterLYoung 

I think this is the model I have bought, which indicates it was produced both before and after the war with little change. Mine is more like the 1939 version but with BSA 3 Speed, it has the same handlebars as shown in 1939 literature. I think BSA bought Sunbeam from AMC in 1939 or thereabouts. by the time of the 1951 catalogue they were making changes such as the straighter handlebars. So I need a BSA 'Snap Control' to replace the SA Trigger.


This is from the 1939 catalogue.


Same model from the 1951 catalogue.

PeterLYoung 

Thanks for that, in that case I only need to get the Snap Control lever which is on offer for much less than £65. Appreciate your help!!!!

Gashepherd

I'm trying to help a friend identify a vintage bicycle, bears some resemblance to vintage Raleigh bicycles, any help would be much appreciated, thanks - Gerry

BFisher 

I don't believe I've posted this one before. It is my wife's. Hub dated '64. I put the old B66 on it, added a 22 tooth sprocket, changed out the horrible grip shifter, and installed Kool Stops.

Ballenxj

The reason I mention PB Blaster is because I have tried it on automotive applications such as old dried up, and dysfunctional latches, and it seems to work well. I got to thinking it would also work well for certain Bicycle applications too. Just my two cents.

jackbombay

With a motorcycle cable oiler you can literally blast/force oil through the whole cable housing with the cable in it, $10.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...66440593&psc=1

PeterLYoung 

Thanks I have ordered a can to try,
regards Peter

PeterLYoung 

I have ordered one and thanks for suggesting it.
regards Peter

Ballenxj

I think it'll work for freeing up stubborn cables just fine, squirt some into the housing, work the cables a bit, then let them sit with the P Bee Blaster inside soaking into the cables.
I simply bought mine at Lowes. Good luck with it.

jackbombay

You're welcome!

I don't use mine often, and they are a bit messy, but sometimes they are exactly what you need!

gster

1955 Humber Club
Although considered finished, the bike wasn't shifting well.

It was either the hub (rebuilt) or the trigger.
I swapped out the back wheel for a '65 to test.
Still not shifting well.
I then swapped out the trigger.

Seems to work well now.
I've got an NOS '53 trigger to add but need to change the ferrule that
goes into it and then I'll also return the correct rear wheel.

Sticky trigger on the left, NOS on the right.
The 50's trigger is much heavier and more robust.
I also added a NOS metal cable guide.
A lot of work for a bike that won't see much road time....

gster

Could this be an Indian or Chinese bike?
They were keen on those fender ornaments.
Try removing the crank case cover.
You may find a stamped chain ring.

BigChief 

I understand, I can't put much time on drop bars anymore either...but...That is such a cool bike! That is a beautiful first generation window shifter. A shame to use it on a bike that won't get much riding time. I have one on my Rudge scorcher even though it is older than the frame. I much prefer them to the short trigger types. I can see Sturmey Archer's logic behind the change in the mid 50s. There's lots of bent window shifters out there from bikes falling over. The through body mount brings the whole unit closer to the handlebar and the short lever lowers the chance of bending even further. But, I have an even better solution. Use a 70s ESGE kickstand the the bike won't fall over in the first place.

gster

Maybe I should just leave the current 60's trigger in place.

gster

Strangely, the 60's trigger appears to be fine/functional but
in place doesn't perform well.
Since the previous post, I've re installed the original '55 rear wheel (new tube/tire)
and all seems well.

jackbombay

I've had that issue before and it turned out that the screw that clamps it to the bar was compressing the shifter a bit not allowing the bits inside to move as freely as they should, I placed a small shim/spacer under the mounting strap on the bottom side of the handle bar so I don't see it and reinstalled, now it works fine. With the shim in there the strap gets tight before the shifter body gets compressed by the screw, this was with "not original bars" so that may have been part of my issue.

gster

Good tip.
Correct trigger in place and shifting well.

BigChief 

Ok. that shifter really fits here and this bike does deserve it. Tough to find early window shifters in this condition these days. Although, if the chrome is still reasonably intact and the face plate isn't bent enough to have a crease, I can make them look pretty good.

BigChief 

SA did put a spacer pin in the case to prevent that from happening, but it is a bit too far away from the screw so the case can still distort depending on how much you tighten it. Another trick that works with slipping shifter, guide wheel and cable stop bands is to put a very light coating of wood glue on the inside of the band and lay in a tiny bit of fine sand while the glue is still tacky.

clubman 

It's in the English style (like most roadsters) but I see the fender ornament and think Germany. They made bikes with English writing for foreign markets so that doesn't bug me. The details are in the components, the names of rims, gears, hubs, pedals, anything will help.

gster

I've seen your posts on rebuilding these and was quite impressed.

gster

Something Different
I swapped a pair of EA1 rims onto an 50's BSA.

The hub was missing an oil port so I went down to the local co op and found this...

A 1956 SW hub.

I don't know too much about them except that they're somewhat rare not well liked.
The indicator chain connects to a rod that extends out the other side.
Does anybody know the purpose of this?
It's a bit like an S5 hub....