clubman 

That's a good question. That was when Raleigh and others started moving their top tier bikes over to the 630 mm size. Maybe some searches through catalogues would help?
I'll pm you.

gster

should you opt for EA1 rims, you'll need tires.
Limited options but Kenda K-023 tires fit/look good.
I'm in Canada, but I'm sure that these shipped from the US.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PeterLYoung 

Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps

bluesteak 

pretty sure 630 won’t fit. I had some difficulty fitting a 622-28 in the back without deflating the tire. I already have a couple of 27” raleighs and the frame measurements are more generous by about 1/2 inch like you describe.

gster

No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.

FBOATSB

Anybody in Central Iowa bidding on this?
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/83430814

arty dave

I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread High performance townie build with 5 speed Sturmey Archer.)

bluesteak 

I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.

gster

Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables

gster

BigChief 

Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.

gster

Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv

gster

I like the look of the throttles, but from a practical point of view, I prefer the triggers mounted on the handle bars as well.

clubman 

That's a very good question because I have seen an abnormal amount of 1961 bikes

gster

I'm sure I've got a '62 on one of the bikes..

jamesj

In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.

gster

You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....

dweenk 

You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.

gster

They do exist

bluesteak 

Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still haven’t found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?

Salubrious

There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.

gster

I found that on the interweb.
I'm sure you can find some suitable drop bars
out there.

gster

Big Chief had a good tutorial posted here
a while back.
Basically reefing on it (in place) with a pipe.
it works

BigChief 

Bending these crank arms is easier than you would think. Seeing when it's straight is the most difficult part. I'm happy with it when I can't detect any pedal wobble when I ride. Holding a straight crank arm up against it makes it easier to guess when it's straight. You could chuck this arm in a bench vise and use a pipe for leverage. Folded cardboard or pieces of inner tube works well for protecting the finish as you work the arm. Go slowly and check a lot.

BigChief 

Oh, you also have a bent cotter. My plan B for this is essentially supporting the crank from underneath and smashing it out with a husky punch and hammer. I set the stand low with the wheels just off the cement floor. Then I drill a hole in the end of a 2x4 to clear the cotter as it comes out. I wedge the 2x4 between the crank arm and the hard floor. Now, there's a couple extra things I do to protect the finish and make the hammer force more efficient. I protect the chrome with electrical tape and saw off the bent end of the cotter. Then I center punch a dimple in the center of the fresh surface so the drill won't skid off. I start with small drills and work my way up until I have a good sized counter sink in the cotter. This will keep the punch from sliding off and damaging the arm. I have this husky punch with a pointed end. I think it's meant for setting finishing nails. That punch fits into the countersink. Then I take a big heavy hammer and hit hard. So far, this has always worked for me.