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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 01-08-20, 09:41 AM
  #22076  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims and drops when new?
That's a good question. That was when Raleigh and others started moving their top tier bikes over to the 630 mm size. Maybe some searches through catalogues would help?
I'll pm you.
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Old 01-08-20, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims








and drops when new?
should you opt for EA1 rims, you'll need tires.
Limited options but Kenda K-023 tires fit/look good.
I'm in Canada, but I'm sure that these shipped from the US.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Last edited by gster; 01-08-20 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 01-08-20, 11:34 AM
  #22078  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
I am new to the forum. If I want to contact you about rims, how do I go about it?

I am including some better photos of the bike. Serial no. Y 67089. I am taking it to be 57 model year. I am thinking of it as a companion to my Raleigh Blue Streak.

Do you think it had ea1 rims

and drops when new?
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
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Old 01-08-20, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PeterLYoung
Further to my earlier comments if it was 1957 date bike then it possibly could have been built for 27" (630) rims rather than the EA1 26" rims.
Probably be a good idea to check against another road bike frame bike frame to check fork lengths, checking my road bikes with 27" they measure 14.5" from hub centre to base of crown whereas my 26" bikes measure 14" so this may give you a clue to which wheel was originally fitted. Hope this helps
pretty sure 630 wonít fit. I had some difficulty fitting a 622-28 in the back without deflating the tire. I already have a couple of 27Ē raleighs and the frame measurements are more generous by about 1/2 inch like you describe.

Last edited by bluesteak; 01-08-20 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 01-09-20, 01:57 PM
  #22080  
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
pretty sure 630 wonít fit. I had some difficulty fitting a 622-28 in the back without deflating the tire. I already have a couple of 27Ē raleighs and the frame measurements are more generous by about 1/2 inch like you describe.
No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.
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Old 01-09-20, 03:24 PM
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Triumph

Anybody in Central Iowa bidding on this?
https://www.shopgoodwill.com/Item/83430814

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Old 01-09-20, 04:38 PM
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I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread High performance townie build with 5 speed Sturmey Archer.)


Last edited by arty dave; 01-09-20 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 01-09-20, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
No harm in putting on a set of standard 26" 3 speed wheels.
Looks like you might need a donor bike anyway.
You can usually find a ladies' bike for $20-$50.00 to harvest parts from.
I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.
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Old 01-09-20, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by arty dave
I was wondering if anyone had done this before - this is what I want to make for my S5 build, a double pulley using a vintage top tube mounted shifter for the left bell crank:

(From Bulgie in the thread High performance townie build with 5 speed Sturmey Archer.)

Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
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Old 01-09-20, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
I have been looking for a donor bike, the dropouts are too wide for an SA hub so I am looking for a Raleigh sprite with a 40 hole hub and a 3/32 chain wheel.
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Old 01-10-20, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by gster
Mine has one of these w/ enclosed cables
Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.
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Old 01-10-20, 06:47 AM
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Here's an amazon review I wrote for some inner tubes I purchased...
https://www.amazon.ca/review/R3HZ9G8..._rv_eml_rv0_rv
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Old 01-10-20, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BigChief
Right now, my Sprite has a handlebar mounted Suntour Powershifter and housed cable running all the way to a cable stop on the seat stay to operate the bell crank. The right side is the usual trigger with top tube stop/ open cable/ guide wheel system. I know I prefer an open cable/ guide wheel to a fully housed cable to operate a trigger. It seems that an open cable would have less friction and lend a better feel to the bell crank shifter also. I just couldn't get along with the SA top tube stick shifters. Hated em. Also now I wish I routed the left side shifter along the down tube. The top tube looks cluttered with 3 cables.
I like the look of the throttles, but from a practical point of view, I prefer the triggers mounted on the handle bars as well.
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Old 01-10-20, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by brianhamp
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?
That's a very good question because I have seen an abnormal amount of 1961 bikes
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Old 01-10-20, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by brianhamp
Me too... and 1963's ... I am glad it's not just me...
I'm sure I've got a '62 on one of the bikes..
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Old 01-10-20, 10:48 AM
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In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





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Old 01-10-20, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by brianhamp
I have a question for the Sturmey Archer people.... Did Sturmey Archer stop or slow down production in 1962 ? I have been looking for a AW hub (or any SA hub) dated 1962 but cannot seem to find any... Was it maybe an "Off Year" for them?
You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....
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Old 01-10-20, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.
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Old 01-10-20, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
You might be onto something....
I've got two '61's and a '63.....
They do exist
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Old 01-10-20, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still havenít found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?
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Old 01-10-20, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





There is a tool that was built specifically to straighten bent steel crankarms. I have one that was made pre-war by Elgin. They are straightened fairly easily with that tool while on the bike.

For the cotter pin I would apply some Kroil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils) to the pin and give it a day or so. Then I would try it again, only repositioning the press as best I could to apply the force so as to push the bend back in the other direction; IOW a little off to one side.
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Old 01-10-20, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
Where did you get that image?

I assume it is a sales poster rather than a catalog. I still havenít found my bike in any period materials.

Can you get handle bars like those?
I found that on the interweb.
I'm sure you can find some suitable drop bars
out there.
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Old 01-10-20, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dweenk
You should be able to bend that back into alignment. A vise, towel, and hammer should put it right.
Big Chief had a good tutorial posted here
a while back.
Basically reefing on it (in place) with a pipe.
it works
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Old 01-10-20, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesj
In taking apart the Raleigh colt everything was going so great the drive side crank cotter decided to not want to move. I thought it was coming out but it was just the cotter bending.
The non drive side came out perfect but I also discovered the non drive side crank has a slight bend. Need to figure out my next plan of attack.





Bending these crank arms is easier than you would think. Seeing when it's straight is the most difficult part. I'm happy with it when I can't detect any pedal wobble when I ride. Holding a straight crank arm up against it makes it easier to guess when it's straight. You could chuck this arm in a bench vise and use a pipe for leverage. Folded cardboard or pieces of inner tube works well for protecting the finish as you work the arm. Go slowly and check a lot.
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Old 01-10-20, 06:34 PM
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Oh, you also have a bent cotter. My plan B for this is essentially supporting the crank from underneath and smashing it out with a husky punch and hammer. I set the stand low with the wheels just off the cement floor. Then I drill a hole in the end of a 2x4 to clear the cotter as it comes out. I wedge the 2x4 between the crank arm and the hard floor. Now, there's a couple extra things I do to protect the finish and make the hammer force more efficient. I protect the chrome with electrical tape and saw off the bent end of the cotter. Then I center punch a dimple in the center of the fresh surface so the drill won't skid off. I start with small drills and work my way up until I have a good sized counter sink in the cotter. This will keep the punch from sliding off and damaging the arm. I have this husky punch with a pointed end. I think it's meant for setting finishing nails. That punch fits into the countersink. Then I take a big heavy hammer and hit hard. So far, this has always worked for me.
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