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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 04-25-20, 09:25 PM
  #22551  
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Originally Posted by ascherer
...Many Brooks saddles want their nose up to the point where it freaks out folks that haven’t ridden them.
fify.
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Old 04-26-20, 07:42 AM
  #22552  
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The tension bolt on the seat should be tightened in very small increments
and never with a wet/damp saddle.
I prefer buying used saddles for the fact that they're already
broken in and considerably cheaper......
I've also used leather dye to spiff them up a bit.


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Old 04-26-20, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
fify.
Fify? Some kind of Martimes reference?
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Old 04-26-20, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer
Fify? Some kind of Martimes reference?
means Fixed it For You...
I had to look it up.
perhaps you had a spelling mistake?
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Old 04-26-20, 05:14 PM
  #22555  
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Originally Posted by gster
means Fixed it For You...
I had to look it up.
perhaps you had a spelling mistake?
I believe my usage was appropriate, referring to B66/67/Flyers. From the Brooks site: "The Flyer and its ladies model Flyer S are classically sprung saddles for long distance trekking..." They need their noses aimed even higher than non-sprung models.
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Old 04-26-20, 05:31 PM
  #22556  
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Originally Posted by ascherer
I believe my usage was appropriate, referring to B66/67/Flyers. From the Brooks site: "The Flyer and its ladies model Flyer S are classically sprung saddles for long distance trekking..." They need their noses aimed even higher than non-sprung models.
Sorry, I was just suggesting that some people require many of their Brooks saddles to be slightly pointed upward, even the racier models.
Here's a couple of mine. Of course my short inseams require zero setback posts.

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Old 04-26-20, 05:41 PM
  #22557  
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Fify is an opportunity to prove one is clever. If it doesn't work, it's my problem.
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Old 04-26-20, 05:46 PM
  #22558  
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Originally Posted by clubman
Sorry, I was just suggesting that some people require many of their Brooks saddles to be slightly pointed upward, even the racier models.
Yes indeed. I have C17s on two other bikes and some folks ask "doesn't it hurt to have your saddle pointing up?" I find that folks who are familiar with setting up leather saddles often don't realize how much more the sprung ones go. 'tis a sensitive subject! If you set one up with the classic slight upward tilt, just a few degrees, it feels like you're sliding off the front once you get on and ride.
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Old 04-27-20, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Fat Tire Trader

1950 ? BSA
This bike has Sunbeam Centrepull Brakes, BSA took over Sunbeam in 1943, one can only assume the made use of Sunbeam components on their own models. My 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer has these brakes. A word of warning regarding the brake cables, they have special nipples at brake end and are virtually irreplaceable, take extreme care with them.
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Last edited by PeterLYoung; 04-27-20 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Correct a date
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Old 04-27-20, 11:24 AM
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Williams Crankset

Originally Posted by Ged117
So I'm going to eventually build up my '54 Armstrong 531 road frame with a Williams chainset/crankset to drive my FW hub, which is built into a 700c wheel. Does anyone know what spindle length the English Club style bikes use? Then I can find the correct cup-and-cone bottom bracket and spindle for the Williams crank and chainline with my hub gear. This will be a long-term project to collect some period parts for a late winter build.


1954ish Armstrong Consort straight-gauge 531 frame and fork
I just got a Williams crankset for my 1957 Hopper Invincible. This is my attempt to document the installation.

Slightly less than 1” drive side. This bottom bracket came with the frame.

About 13/16 left side.

.86” thick

BB protrudes roughly 3/32. Almost to much frame clearance. This is only a 40 tooth ring.
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Old 04-27-20, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ascherer
I believe the stem is as high as it goes safely. I wanted to keep as much of the original equipment as possible. My commute is about 4.5 miles each way and I found I was feeling cramped reaching for the bars and wanting to slide my butt back. The seatpost resolved both issues. Sprung Brooks saddles want their nose up to the point where it freaks out folks that haven’t ridden them. Seems counter intuitive but it’s remarkably comfortable, especially on rough city streets. Have you tired tightening the adjusting nut at the nose of the saddle?
Thanks. I feel the same way. I don't want to remove the original stem, bar, or add an extender. I am going to try a layback seatpost. I haven't adjusted the nut because it is a 70 year old saddle and I am afraid of tearing the leather. rhm suggested finding some foam to stuff underneath between the leather and rails to shore up the seat surface. I was thinking of trying case foam from the hardware store, cut to fit.
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Old 04-27-20, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
Thanks. I feel the same way. I don't want to remove the original stem, bar, or add an extender. I am going to try a layback seatpost. I haven't adjusted the nut because it is a 70 year old saddle and I am afraid of tearing the leather. rhm suggested finding some foam to stuff underneath between the leather and rails to shore up the seat surface. I was thinking of trying case foam from the hardware store, cut to fit.
There's no better source of saddle advice here than Rudi.
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Old 04-27-20, 02:13 PM
  #22563  
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Custom BSA Path Racer for sale...
https://deadrats.co.uk/2020/01/16/fo...sa-path-racer/
Nice bike but a bit pricey.
On a side note the seller has used the word "Bespoke" in the description.
Bespoke does refer to something custom made but specifically refers to something that has "been spoken about previously"
i.e. ordering a custom made shirt or a hat for example.
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Old 04-27-20, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ged117
Seems like GB Coureur brakes, handlebars, and stems go for $$ these days, but I'd like to outfit it with period brakes, bar, and stem. I may go '70s on brake levers because the small bits in '50s GB levers are very old and likely brittle now.
I've not had any troubles with the small bits in the GB brake levers. On several occasions though I've cannibalized Weinmann levers for the clamps that fix the lever to the handlbars. I've also found it advantageous to mount the clamp on the bars first, and then offer the lever to it, rather than try to work the lever and clamp around the bends of the bars.
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Old 04-27-20, 06:19 PM
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Cheap it says, or maybe even free
And it looks like a ladies' 23.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...6495416048901/

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Old 04-28-20, 07:30 AM
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Here's one for the detectives

A new listing on Kijiji, Toronto

A nice fender ornament

Looks to be British....
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Old 04-28-20, 07:55 AM
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Looks like a Rudge
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Old 04-28-20, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by gster

Custom BSA Path Racer for sale...
https://deadrats.co.uk/2020/01/16/fo...sa-path-racer/
Nice bike but a bit pricey.
On a side note the seller has used the word "Bespoke" in the description.
Bespoke does refer to something custom made but specifically refers to something that has "been spoken about previously"
i.e. ordering a custom made shirt or a hat for example.
Or buy a garage sale Raleigh, ditch the fenders and flip the bars...all for about $100
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Old 04-28-20, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Velognome
Or buy a garage sale Raleigh, ditch the fenders and flip the bars...all for about $100
Agreed!
A classic Scorcher!
This one ticks all the boxes.
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Old 04-28-20, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
I've not had any troubles with the small bits in the GB brake levers. On several occasions though I've cannibalized Weinmann levers for the clamps that fix the lever to the handlbars. I've also found it advantageous to mount the clamp on the bars first, and then offer the lever to it, rather than try to work the lever and clamp around the bends of the bars.
That's a great tip. I have a pair of Mafac levers that I could perhaps steal clamps from.
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Old 04-28-20, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Here's one for the detectives

A new listing on Kijiji, Toronto

A nice fender ornament

Looks to be British....
I'd guess a Birmingham Hercules with an add-on ornament. Women's roadsters had that distinctive ledge at the headtube/downtube intersection as well as the short connecting tube.
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Old 04-28-20, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by clubman
I'd guess a Birmingham Hercules with an add-on ornament. Women's roadsters had that distinctive ledge at the headtube/downtube intersection as well as the short connecting tube.
Good suggestion.
My 1930 Hercules also has a hole in the front fender (no ornament).
I like those "7" seat posts as well.
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Old 04-28-20, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Velognome
Or buy a garage sale Raleigh, ditch the fenders and flip the bars...all for about $100
I find that just looking at a bike like this cheers me up.
The proportions, the angles, the relationship between the frame and the wheels.
It's quite perfect in it's design and function.
Well done.
Being of Scottish descent, I like the frugality as well....
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Old 04-28-20, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
Here's one for the detectives

A new listing on Kijiji, Toronto

A nice fender ornament

Looks to be British....
I am thinking German.
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Old 05-01-20, 05:05 AM
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TCW hub stamped 1957. This is halfway through cleaning & I'm reassembling as I go. I had to stop at this point because I forgot to bring grease with me to where I'm doing this; and it was time to pack the bearings. I got this from a trashed ladies framed BSA, and was also able to harvest its steel wheeled cable guide and the shifter. The gear insides show no signs of wear which is nice, just a little wear on the bronze brake shoe. This will go on a mid-fifties Australian roadster with 28 3/8" wheels (642mm). I've heard the braking from these is fairly lame, but I'll have a decent front brake to do most of the stopping.
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