Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 11-20-20, 02:45 PM
  #23376  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,419

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Liked 230 Times in 125 Posts
Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
You can pull that off if you have the spacers made from a single bit of metal (IOW not using washers) so that the axle can't flex. But the bigger problem that will likely shoot this down is that the axle isn't long enough to do this. You may have some thread left over, but not enough to secure the nuts properly, so they will strip. Cold-setting the frame sounds easier and how to do this properly is well documented. If you ever want to go single speed again, get a single speed hub that is the same over-locknut (OLD) dimensions as the SA hub.
Hit my local Ace Hardware this morning (you should see their fasteners aisle!) and came up with a couple of proper width steel chrome spacers bored 3/8" with 3/16" wall thickness. They're far and away the heaviest alternative available, so I'm assuming this'll add a bit of structural rigidity to the assembly. Putting the wheel on, I found that by removing both the rear rack and massive kickstand (we're talking 1920's motorcycle kickstand - I think my old Indian 101 Scout had the same stand), I've narrowed it down to the point that the non-drive side nut bolts on with 1-2 threads on the axle showing. I'm assuming the drive side indicator chain bolt is fitting about the same.

Set up this way, the wheel is slightly to the left of the center line on the fender, so I can probably do something a bit narrower on the right side spacer and have the bolted down setup drag the wheel back closer to center. Big hold-up right now is that I need to add a couple of links to the chain, as I'm replacing the original 20t rear sprocket with a 23t.

I'm optimistic.
__________________
Syke

ďNo one in this world, so far as I know ó and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me ó has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.Ē

H.L. Mencken, (1926)


Last edited by sykerocker; 11-20-20 at 02:51 PM.
sykerocker is offline  
Likes For sykerocker:
Old 11-20-20, 04:34 PM
  #23377  
markk900
Senior Member
 
markk900's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,418
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 392 Times in 207 Posts
Originally Posted by sykerocker View Post
Hit my local Ace Hardware this morning (you should see their fasteners aisle!) and came up with a couple of proper width steel chrome spacers bored 3/8" with 3/16" wall thickness.
You are lucky - I needed some M7x1.0 hex head bolts for a project and could not get them *anywhere*. The local "hardware" stores (Depot, Lowes, Rona, Canadian Tire) have more selection in build it yourself furniture then they do for hardware. Ended up buying them on Amazon with free delivery next day, but I'd prefer to buy local.

I have done what you are doing though not 8mm per side; no problems so far!
markk900 is offline  
Old 11-20-20, 05:06 PM
  #23378  
Salubrious
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,526

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 317 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 79 Posts
Originally Posted by sykerocker View Post
Hit my local Ace Hardware this morning (you should see their fasteners aisle!) and came up with a couple of proper width steel chrome spacers bored 3/8" with 3/16" wall thickness. They're far and away the heaviest alternative available, so I'm assuming this'll add a bit of structural rigidity to the assembly. Putting the wheel on, I found that by removing both the rear rack and massive kickstand (we're talking 1920's motorcycle kickstand - I think my old Indian 101 Scout had the same stand), I've narrowed it down to the point that the non-drive side nut bolts on with 1-2 threads on the axle showing. I'm assuming the drive side indicator chain bolt is fitting about the same.

Set up this way, the wheel is slightly to the left of the center line on the fender, so I can probably do something a bit narrower on the right side spacer and have the bolted down setup drag the wheel back closer to center. Big hold-up right now is that I need to add a couple of links to the chain, as I'm replacing the original 20t rear sprocket with a 23t.

I'm optimistic.
Check and see if the hub is centered, and that you get a good driveline with the chain straight to the chainwheel on the crank. If so, don't shift it; instead use a spoke wrench to take the dish out of the wheel (for this you have to know a bit about wheel alignment, if you don't, look it up on the web, its not hard). The hub allows you to move the sprocket back and forth a bit to fine tune the driveline. This is done by changing the spacers around (there are two, plus the sprocket itself) and often the sprocket is dished so you can reverse it if needed. If you do this right you may have to work with the spokes.
Salubrious is offline  
Old 11-20-20, 06:18 PM
  #23379  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,419

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Liked 230 Times in 125 Posts
Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
Check and see if the hub is centered, and that you get a good driveline with the chain straight to the chainwheel on the crank. If so, don't shift it; instead use a spoke wrench to take the dish out of the wheel (for this you have to know a bit about wheel alignment, if you don't, look it up on the web, its not hard). The hub allows you to move the sprocket back and forth a bit to fine tune the driveline. This is done by changing the spacers around (there are two, plus the sprocket itself) and often the sprocket is dished so you can reverse it if needed. If you do this right you may have to work with the spokes.
Iím figuring out the chain line next, not exactly easy since weíre talk full chain case and itís mostly one piece unlike the vintage British bikes. Well used to dishing wheels.
__________________
Syke

ďNo one in this world, so far as I know ó and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me ó has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.Ē

H.L. Mencken, (1926)

sykerocker is offline  
Old 11-21-20, 05:20 PM
  #23380  
56ford
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1953 Hercules, Late 50' Hercules Tourist, 1997 Raleigh M-40, 1964 Schwinn American

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts


My shifter won’t stay in low. Is there someone on here that fixes these?
56ford is offline  
Old 11-21-20, 05:58 PM
  #23381  
rhenning
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,648
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 103 Times in 77 Posts
Your cable appears to be bad or bent. I would replace that first. Roger
rhenning is offline  
Old 11-21-20, 06:38 PM
  #23382  
56ford
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1953 Hercules, Late 50' Hercules Tourist, 1997 Raleigh M-40, 1964 Schwinn American

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
So the problem is you have to manually push the catch down from the top to get it stay in low which is almost impossible to do when riding. Cable seems to work smoothly. Bought a SA trigger shifter to put on it for now.
56ford is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 05:06 AM
  #23383  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,547

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1022 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post


My shifter wonít stay in low. Is there someone on here that fixes these?
It's a very precise little system.
A small kink or frayed wire inside the housing can mess things up.
A nice clean sweep to the cable stop helps as well.
Sometimes the trigger itself is worn/bent etc.
Your's looks good.
gster is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 11:10 AM
  #23384  
groth
astro
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pennington, NJ
Posts: 346

Bikes: Raleigh Sports, '72, Bianchi Volpe, '97 (no more, it died), Greenspeed GTVS6, '05, Trek 520, '13

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 45 Times in 22 Posts
Restoring an English 3 speed hub (not on an English bike!)

Some of you might remember I posted about restoring my 1972 Raleigh Sports a couple of years ago. Something not done in that restoration was servicing the Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed hub. I've been wanting to do that, but a bit leery of it. Finally got the idea of practicing on my late wife's old bike which has a Sturmey Archer S3C hub - 3 speeds with a coaster brake. So the hub is English! The rest is Schwinn (a Collegiate from 1981 or 82). Anyway, here's a web page describing the restoration of the Collegiate, but mostly concentrating on the hub. Attached below is a photo of the restored Collegiate.
groth is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 12:47 PM
  #23385  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,547

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1022 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
Originally Posted by groth View Post
Some of you might remember I posted about restoring my 1972 Raleigh Sports a couple of years ago. Something not done in that restoration was servicing the Sturmey Archer AW 3 speed hub. I've been wanting to do that, but a bit leery of it. Finally got the idea of practicing on my late wife's old bike which has a Sturmey Archer S3C hub - 3 speeds with a coaster brake. So the hub is English! The rest is Schwinn (a Collegiate from 1981 or 82). Anyway, here's a web page describing the restoration of the Collegiate, but mostly concentrating on the hub. Attached below is a photo of the restored Collegiate.
Very nice!
gster is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 01:04 PM
  #23386  
56ford
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1953 Hercules, Late 50' Hercules Tourist, 1997 Raleigh M-40, 1964 Schwinn American

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by gster View Post
It's a very precise little system.
A small kink or frayed wire inside the housing can mess things up.
A nice clean sweep to the cable stop helps as well.
Sometimes the trigger itself is worn/bent etc.
Your's looks good.
Iíll put on a new cable when I put the other shifter on and set the whole assembly to the side. I wish it wasnít riveted together. I donít want to mess it up trying to get in it but Iím betting someone on here has before.
56ford is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 01:12 PM
  #23387  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,547

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 57 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1022 Post(s)
Liked 385 Times in 271 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post
Iíll put on a new cable when I put the other shifter on and set the whole assembly to the side. I wish it wasnít riveted together. I donít want to mess it up trying to get in it but Iím betting someone on here has before.
Yeah, there are previous posts where they've been taken apart cleaned/polished and re riveted.
But they're usually pretty bullet proof.
Unless there's a dent or a broken spring it should work.
gster is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 08:00 PM
  #23388  
cszipper
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Morris Cty, NJ
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post
My shifter wonít stay in low. Is there someone on here that fixes these?
'

I've fixed a couple of Sturmey Archer thumb shifters that would not stay in gear due to weak pawl springs. The shift cable is under the most tension in low gear, so, if the spring is the problem, that is where you would expect the problem to be most pronounced. There are two ways I dealt with the weak spring:
1. Drive out the rivet holding the spring in the shifter, bend the spring so that it applies more pressure, and reinstall. Dealing with the rivet, particularly during re-installation is fiddly. The rivets on your Hercules shifter have much larger heads than the Sturmey shifters that I've worked on.
2. Install a shim under the backside of the spring so that it applies more pressure to the pawl. You'll want to make the shim to that it is positively retained under the spring, otherwise it might vibrate out of position. I was able to do this without disassembling the shifter. I did it on a bike I owned in college, and it worked fine for the year or so that I rode the bike, but is certainly less elegant that the first fix.

Another possibility is that the low gear pawl stop (or whatever it's properly called) is worn round and will no longer engage the pawl. I've never encountered this, but imagine you could deal with it by disassembling the shifter and filing the stop back square. You might find that you also have to remove a similar amount of metal from the middle and high gear stops in order to maintain the correct amount of cable pull between the gears.

All of the above assumes that your Hercules shifter uses the same internal mechanism as the Sturmey shifters.

-Carl
cszipper is offline  
Old 11-22-20, 08:35 PM
  #23389  
56ford
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1953 Hercules, Late 50' Hercules Tourist, 1997 Raleigh M-40, 1964 Schwinn American

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks for the advise @cszipper !
56ford is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 01:11 PM
  #23390  
RobHalligan
Senior Member
 
RobHalligan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: DC
Posts: 99
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post
Thanks for the advise @cszipper !
I don't know if I missed part of the discussion, but do check the cable adjustment before disassembling the shifter. Most every time with mine (I've had about 10 pop out of 1st), it's been cable adjustment.

Last edited by RobHalligan; 11-23-20 at 03:31 PM.
RobHalligan is offline  
Likes For RobHalligan:
Old 11-23-20, 02:32 PM
  #23391  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 970
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 430 Times in 258 Posts
Originally Posted by RobHalligan View Post
I don't know if I missed part of the discussion, but do check the cable adjustment before disassembling the shifter. Most every time mine (I've had about 10 pop out of 1st), it's been cable adjustment.
A few drops of oil in the shifter to make sure ther springs can push bits around as they are intended to could get it working too.
jackbombay is offline  
Likes For jackbombay:
Old 11-23-20, 02:34 PM
  #23392  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 970
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 430 Times in 258 Posts
So, I have a couple of worn S5 hubs, and need some parts, I have new 1st/5th sun gears, part number HSA269, but I still need sun gears for 2nd/4th, part number HSA141 and 8 new planet gears, part number HSA134, does anybody know where I might find these for sale? My hunch is the planet gears are still in ok condition, and the hubs will work much better with new sun gears, but as long as they will be apart I'd like to replace all the parts that wear...
jackbombay is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 03:22 PM
  #23393  
stevel610 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Valley Forge: Birthplace of Freedom
Posts: 1,187

Bikes: Novara Safari, CAAD9, WABI Classic, WABI Thunder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 325 Post(s)
Liked 383 Times in 199 Posts
Trying to get more info on this HUMBER. It was suggested I ask here. More pictures at the link. Thanks!
What is this?
__________________
Be watchful, stand firm in the faith, act like men, be strong. Let all that you do be done in love.
stevel610 is offline  
Likes For stevel610:
Old 11-23-20, 06:57 PM
  #23394  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 970
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 430 Times in 258 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post
Thanks for the advise @cszipper !
The other one to check is that I have occasionally had the band clamp on the shifter be slightly too long, so the screw that holds it in place clamps on the shifter mechanism before the band clamp is fully tight, that compression of the shifter prevents it from working properly. Just loosen the mounting screw for the shifter a turn and see how it operates, if that is the issue a little scrap of inner tube under the band clamp will make the band clamp get tight before the screw applies any compression to the shifter itself.
jackbombay is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 07:34 PM
  #23395  
56ford
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 62

Bikes: 1953 Hercules, Late 50' Hercules Tourist, 1997 Raleigh M-40, 1964 Schwinn American

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
The other one to check is that I have occasionally had the band clamp on the shifter be slightly too long, so the screw that holds it in place clamps on the shifter mechanism before the band clamp is fully tight, that compression of the shifter prevents it from working properly. Just loosen the mounting screw for the shifter a turn and see how it operates, if that is the issue a little scrap of inner tube under the band clamp will make the band clamp get tight before the screw applies any compression to the shifter itself.
Looks like I have quite a few things to try now. Iíll give them a shot. I hope it works cause itís a cool shifter.
56ford is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 07:38 PM
  #23396  
arty dave
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Canberra Australia
Posts: 231

Bikes: 30's Speedwell Club Racer, 40's Speedwell 'Z' racer, 2 x mid-50's Speedwell Roadsters, 50's Repco Roadster, '62 Speedwell Roadster, '63 Raleigh DL-1, 2 x early 70's Speedwell Roadsters, '99 Dyno Glide deluxe, Schwinn Cruiser 7, Puch Promenade 3 speed

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Liked 16 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
So, I have a couple of worn S5 hubs, and need some parts, I have new 1st/5th sun gears, part number HSA269, but I still need sun gears for 2nd/4th, part number HSA141 and 8 new planet gears, part number HSA134, does anybody know where I might find these for sale? My hunch is the planet gears are still in ok condition, and the hubs will work much better with new sun gears, but as long as they will be apart I'd like to replace all the parts that wear...
I would contact Mark Stonich - he is the guy who sells the beefy cotter press. https://bikesmithdesign.com/
He also sold me a couple of left side bellcranks for my S5 hubs that he adapted from shimano bellcranks. You can see them 1/2way down this page https://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/SA-tips.pdf
You could maybe try this guy? Internal Gear Hub Service
arty dave is offline  
Likes For arty dave:
Old 11-23-20, 08:07 PM
  #23397  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 970
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 430 Times in 258 Posts
Originally Posted by arty dave View Post
I would contact Mark Stonich...
Hes a great guy! I did buy the HSA269 sun gears from him, but he doesn't have the HSA141 or the HSA134.


Originally Posted by arty dave View Post
You could maybe try this guy? Internal Gear Hub Service
That website does list the parts I need! Thanks you so much!

Last edited by jackbombay; 11-23-20 at 08:13 PM.
jackbombay is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 08:11 PM
  #23398  
clubman 
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,386

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 122 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2145 Post(s)
Liked 1,584 Times in 1,008 Posts
Originally Posted by stevel610 View Post
Trying to get more info on this HUMBER. It was suggested I ask here. More pictures at the link. Thanks!
What is this?
I think it's a late 40's bike. I've got a 52 and had a 55 and they both had brass head badges, something that was in short supply post war. The bakelite dynohub also stopped around '51. It could have a date on it.
edit

Last edited by clubman; 11-23-20 at 09:52 PM.
clubman is offline  
Likes For clubman:
Old 11-23-20, 08:14 PM
  #23399  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 970
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 430 Times in 258 Posts
Originally Posted by 56ford View Post
I hope it works cause itís a cool shifter.
It's amazing! I would love to have one for my Hercules!
jackbombay is offline  
Old 11-23-20, 08:25 PM
  #23400  
knittykitty
Junior Member
 
knittykitty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NW Washington
Posts: 22

Bikes: Robin Hood Sports 3 Speed, 1982/83 Corsaro(?) Mixte, Raleigh Twenty Folder (project)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Free Raleigh Twenty

Finally dragged the Raleigh Twenty back out of the garage during a dry spell to take some photos. The work van does not make the most charming backdrop, but it was about as much effort as I was willing to put into photographing this. I posted about picking this up a few weeks ago, and haven't really touched it since, aside from pulling more pine needles out of various crevices. It certainly isn't in good shape, and I think free was about the right price for it. If I end up liking it, I'd consider re-painting. There's patina, and then there's just sad.

It's got some white splotches here and there that I think might be house paint, and rust galore. Rims are surprisingly not very rusty, which is nice, though the nipples did not fare as well. Hopefully they're not seized.

I did get the pair of tires I ordered for it in the mail, nothing fancy, just some cheap CST Decades to try the whole thing out. Whenever I get around to finding tubes and getting the hub moving that is. I was also gifted a white saddle that I think might look rather nice on this, if it doesn't end up being unbearable to sit on.


I'll post progress pics whenever I actually make some progress on it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
efNDgxr.jpg (1,008.8 KB, 204 views)
File Type: jpg
nGuXfo0.jpg (892.0 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg
cRqpwmw.jpg (1.33 MB, 203 views)
knittykitty is offline  
Likes For knittykitty:

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.