jamesdak 

Nope but cheaper I'd say than pretty much any other modern bike, be it road or mountain. For a long time I kept trying to find a reasonable used one or even consider building my own "copy". But with all the money freed up with selling 19 of my road bikes I was able to swing this no problem. It's worth the cost in my book. That price is the total also. No added fees, shipping costs, etc.

In my opinion they are well made and should last a long, long time.

I've also got an Azor Dutch bike on order that's pretty much maxed out on options and it was about $500 more. But It's configured so I can ride it for decades and is so well built that my kids will be able to use it.

nlerner

Went to check out this CL possibility this morning:


Ends up the wheels had been replaced at some point; rear hub was a Hercules. Did have a locking fork (but no key), but the finish was pretty beat, plus no chain guard. I passed.

paulb_in_bkln

Ah, that new bike smell.

oldspokes

I would think that if the wheels were decent, so long as they're British, it would well worth what their asking in parts?
I've answered many ads like that where the bike is in so-so condition and walked away with it for half what they were asking. I just picked up two early 70's Sports, one minus its fenders, the other with a set of minty clean Endrick wheels from 1965 for $40, the guy had them listed for $200. They sat for a month on CL, I emailed him an offer and he took it. Both bikes were 'rideable' if you wished but neither was original. The one is a brown '70 Sports, the other a '60 Sports, the '70 had the correct wheels for the '60. A day later I picked up a 1971 ladies model which gave the '70 a correct set of wheels.
Those three bikes, which I had less than $60 into, made two bikes and completed a 64 Robin Hood I had hanging on the wall for years. Now the ladies frame can hang there instead I suppose. I can likely get more for its headbadge than i can for the complete frame though.

The brown late model Sports above looks super clean, its nearly identical to two I've got here. They must of made nothing but brown and silver bikes in those later years. Its all I keep seeing in this area.

clubman 

Posting this one for posterity. A Royal Enfield club bike with an AG hub, 3 pin crank and 531 straight gauge tubes. Didn't get a date on it.

gster

Here's a clean Norman for sale here in Toronto.


Overpriced @ $360.00

2fat2fly

What's up with so many of these bikes having chainguards with dents in the middle like that? Nearly every one I see has a chainguard that's either bashed in or been hammered out with a claw hammer.

I wouldn't put much weight on the price, I've answered ads with high prices before and walked away with the bike for a fraction of what they were asking.
If a bike is something I want, I email and ask how firm is their price, if that doesn't meet with an attitude, I'll go take a look and make an offer. I've bought more than I've walked away from.

clubman 

How about chainguards are flimsy and don't last 50 years without getting dented?
@gster simply posts bikes available at Toronto prices. Sometimes they're cheap, sometimes not. It's just data points as conversation. He knows what it's worth and so do we.

gster

Q- What is a 3 pin crank?

cudak888 

My bet is that it's the result of someone hitting it with their heel.

-Kurt

clubman 

See how there's 3 bolts attaching the ring to the drive side crankarm? 3 pin cranks were typically found on Raleigh, Chater-lea, BSA, and Williams steel cranks so you could swap them out to suit the ride. Made for more 'sporting' bikes. 116 BCD.

clubman 

Bikes fall over all the time as well. Curbs, rocks, small animals. It's only limited by our imagination.

BFisher 

50 year old piece of 21 gauge sheet metal being used as a guard. It surprises me when they aren't bent.

dedhed

I got someone to model and 3D print some plastic ones. The blue were a trial run with different material. Haven't found the time to fit them as I replaced my broken one with metal.

clubman 

I'm a sucker for paint and pins on rims. I have a few sets and singles on steel but the 20th century wooden rims were spectacular. I think these came from a 1918 catalogue.

thumpism

FREE old Sports in Providence! Act fast.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...38178283534751

thumpism

Pair of Superbes for cheap, but both are badly rusted.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...91386415153885

gster

Thanks for that.
I've seen it mentioned here many times before, but I didn't
know what it was.

thumpism

23" for cheap.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...29249601283482

cudak888 

Interesting, that looks like a high-detail resin 3D print. I'd worry about them being strong enough to handle repeated shifts, especially if the particular S5 has a strong spring.

-Kurt

thumpism

CCM!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...86014336689439

jackbombay

I have a few S5 hubs, and I don't notice any difference in spring strength, but where they are odd is that to engage 1st or 5th reliably you do need to have slight tension on the drivetrain, which is counter intuitive for someone that has only ridden 3 speeds where they shift best with no load on the drive train. I built up a Super Course S5 bike for my buddy and he can't quite get the shift to 1st consistently due to the need for some tension on the drive train, and now the hub is "skipping" in 1st even with the cable adjusted properly, so I need to open it up to see what has gone wrong.

I love my S5 bikes, but in hindsight I do wish I would have built up his bike as a AW 3 speed.

Derek Wells

Hello all, I am repairing a 3 speed 1939 sun club tandem, I need some spokes and nipples, the current nipples are 4mm wide x 13mm long i measured the spoke width they came up as 2.76mm but I think the rust made them thicker and the are 271mm long, does anyone have any info on Sun bikes that could help aguy out

oldspokes

Bikes are rarely cheap around my way, regardless of condition.

I never thought the Raleigh c/g was flimsy, but it is a tight fit between crank arm and chain.
I can't say I've ever bent one myself but have found dozens that are bent in that same place. Once bent, they're nearly impossible to straighten and get right.
For years I rode one of those daily and the open top hooks on my work boots would catch the c/g if I wasn't careful, I learned quick to either buy boots with normal eyelets or to tape the top of my boot to prevent the hook eyelets from catching the c/g.
Those guards all seem to be bent where they would hit the crank or your boot, so I don't think its from falling over, the pedal would likely stop the c/g from hitting a curb unless if tell just perfectly, and we really don't have any curbs around here. Just stumps and rough roads.

The Burmingham guards were a different story, those were like tissue paper and got would bent super easily..

Johno59

Ignore the wheels.Modern Al wheels are much better for stopping. Even stainless steel are available but not cheap and have lousy stopping ability. The wheels were never meant to last but the rest of the bikes are fine. Obviously it will have to be repainted so you can hit anything stuck with a blow-torch. Replica decals (even water slides) are readily available for these bikes.