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For the love of English 3 speeds...

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For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 08-10-21, 05:22 PM
  #24901  
theofam
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Salubrious , thanks for the link. I found a rim on eBay with local pickup for $40. Do we have wheelbuilders in the house? Because, I'll need to order the correct spokes to lace it up to my SA 3 speed.
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Old 08-10-21, 07:33 PM
  #24902  
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[QUOTE=clubman;22176265]IMO, the original, older SA shifter cables with fulcrum stops are superior. Far less friction and typically, they are impervious to oxidation as well as accommodating wider variations of stem and bar combinations./QUOTE]
Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
I have 3 Raleighs and A Hercules. I never had a problem with any cable getting in my feet. The gear cable is protected. Therefore it does not tend to rust.
One of the Raleigh have that upper way and is totally open to the weather conditions,
The pulley is rusted. Part of its restoration to come. [Still cant post pics.Frustrating]
This is the reason I asked. Rust had a 3 courses meal on it.





Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?

.

Last edited by ConnoisseurEqua; 08-10-21 at 07:36 PM.
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Old 08-10-21, 07:40 PM
  #24903  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
WRT brakes, if you were getting squealing with the new Kool Stops, you need to twist the calipers a bit so that the trailing edge of the brake pad contacts the rim first. It doesn't take much but if they set down at the same time along their length, the pads (and rim) will squeal.
Correct me if I am wrong but I always understood that you wanted toe *in* (leading edge to contact first)Ö. Exact same principle as described so maybe it doesnít matter but just thought I should check.
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Old 08-10-21, 07:50 PM
  #24904  
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[QUOTE=ConnoisseurEqua;22179446]
Originally Posted by clubman View Post
IMO, the original, older SA shifter cables with fulcrum stops are superior. Far less friction and typically, they are impervious to oxidation as well as accommodating wider variations of stem and bar combinations./QUOTE]


This is the reason I asked. Rust had a 3 courses meal on it.





Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?

.
Yuk! Iíd take a couple of the worst parts off, soak them in white vinegar, then scrub with either aluminum foil (which I found awkward) or buy brass-bristle brushes (preferred). If they clean up decently, youíll know the lesser-rusted parts will look even better.

I just did the same thing on a bike that had been baked in the Arizona sun, so the rust was more surface rust than yours. It cleaned up well, whereas yours appears to have metal missing on the pulley mount.
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Old 08-10-21, 08:05 PM
  #24905  
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"pulley mount" That's what they are called.
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.

Thanks
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Old 08-10-21, 08:14 PM
  #24906  
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Originally Posted by theofam View Post
Finally hit 10 posts! Back in March a buddy gave me a couple old bikes he bought in a three-bike CL deal. He kept the Hawthorne. I got these rusty relics.

On the right is a Schwinn. I've no idea what model (have yet to research it). On the left is a Western Flyer with a 3-speed SA hub dated 1960.

The cotter crank was frozen. Many choice words were said getting it apart. I nearly scrapped the project due to difficulty removing the drive-side bearing cup. The SA hub was frozen. When I removed the rear wheel, the chain kept the same shape. You get the idea!

After hours removing rust with white vinegar, aluminum foil and brass brushes, I moved on to the SA hub.

Removing rust, piece by piece, was both a challenge and therapy.

Fast forward a couple months. Being a motorcycle fan, I realized I could flip the bars and rotate them to give the appearance of a 1920s board track racer. I also frequent a coffee shop rife with nice mountain bikes parked outside. I figured if I kept the original paint/patina, folks would look right past my bike to focus on the high-dollar stuff. So, here's the Western Flyer:


Being a coffee shop bike, and being born in '68, I had a plate made with its name - Mocha



After 10-20 hours getting Mocha on the road, I figured my time was worth more than $3.25/hour. So, I picked up a coffee shop bike for my wife on CL for $70. It's name, you ask? Java.

You've built what we've been calling a Semi Scorcher.
If you remove the fenders/chainguard, it's a full Scorcher.
This is also a Semi Scorcher


No fenders, no chainguard but upturned bars.
I quite like the look of the bars down but my neck and back disagree.
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Old 08-10-21, 08:28 PM
  #24907  
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
"pulley mount" That's what they are called.
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.

Thanks
Pulley wheel...pulley mount describes a braze-on mount for a wheel on the top tube, usually found in the 50's.

Love to see a wide shot of the drive side. These bikes are usually worth cleaning up. Parts are usually available, just replace.

Last edited by clubman; 08-11-21 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 08-10-21, 11:06 PM
  #24908  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
You've built what we've been calling a Semi Scorcher.
If you remove the fenders/chainguard, it's a full Scorcher.
This is also a Semi Scorcher


No fenders, no chainguard but upturned bars.
I quite like the look of the bars down but my neck and back disagree.
Dang, look at me building a semi scorcher without even realizing it!

Thanks for the tutelage. Part of the fun for me taking on a new project(s) is learning the vocabulary associated with it. Each new endeavor makes me realize just how little I know of this world.
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Old 08-11-21, 04:34 AM
  #24909  
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I would call this bike a true Scorcher.

Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.

Last edited by gster; 08-11-21 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 08-11-21, 07:26 AM
  #24910  
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About the frozen pulley - the small securing screw on the pulley that holds the wheel on the axle is finely threaded, of small diameter, and made of relatively soft metal. One thing that may help is before removing the pulley from the frame, gently tap the flat bladed screw driver into the screw head slot using a hammer. Don't pound on it, but when setting the driver blade into the screw head, give the butt of the driver a little tap with a hammer to deliver a little shock to the screw. Sometimes this is enough to then turn the blade. If still frozen, add a little oil and try again. It's sort of like a very light-duty version of an impact driver. Do not attempt to force that small screw if it seems stuck - they strip or break.
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Old 08-11-21, 10:18 AM
  #24911  
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Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Correct me if I am wrong but I always understood that you wanted toe *in* (leading edge to contact first)Ö. Exact same principle as described so maybe it doesnít matter but just thought I should check.
I'm going with 'wrong' on that one... I can't imagine how you would get the calipers to work properly that way; if the leaded edge contacts first, it will cause the caliper to distort and since its springy metal, I have to imagine it would squeal like crazy! At any rate I've never tried that.
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Old 08-11-21, 10:47 AM
  #24912  
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Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
I'm going with 'wrong' on that one... I can't imagine how you would get the calipers to work properly that way; if the leaded edge contacts first, it will cause the caliper to distort and since its springy metal, I have to imagine it would squeal like crazy! At any rate I've never tried that.
Fair enough, though you got me to wondering where I thought that came from (because I have been adjusting for toe-in for years to eliminate squeal and wondered if I had been doing it improperly) and when I searched the interwebs it was clear that toe-in (leading edge touching slightly ahead of the rest of the pad) seemed to be the preferred method of setup..... here's one example:

https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-be...adjust-toe-in/

Also St Sheldon suggests toe-in to prevent squeal:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#squealing
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Old 08-11-21, 11:16 AM
  #24913  
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Originally Posted by theofam View Post
Salubrious , thanks for the link. I found a rim on eBay with local pickup for $40. Do we have wheelbuilders in the house? Because, I'll need to order the correct spokes to lace it up to my SA 3 speed.
If you take the rim and hub to almost any bike shop they can calculate the correct spoke length. Make sure you tell them how many spokes will cross in your pattern.

Originally Posted by markk900 View Post
Fair enough, though you got me to wondering where I thought that came from (because I have been adjusting for toe-in for years to eliminate squeal and wondered if I had been doing it improperly) and when I searched the interwebs it was clear that toe-in (leading edge touching slightly ahead of the rest of the pad) seemed to be the preferred method of setup..... here's one example:

https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-be...adjust-toe-in/

Also St Sheldon suggests toe-in to prevent squeal:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#squealing
Ah. Its a semantic issue then. To me the 'leading edge' is the part of the pad that the rim travels past first. The trailing edge is the one that should touch down first, as you linked in the reneherse page. We're talking about exactly the same thing.
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Old 08-11-21, 03:34 PM
  #24914  
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Safe Clean

Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks


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Old 08-11-21, 03:44 PM
  #24915  
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
What have you tried? I run through a number of different concoctions (not necessarily in this order): varsol, WD40 plus aluminum foil, carb cleaner, brake cleaner (these last two are considered nasty so don't breath them in unnecessarily).
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Old 08-11-21, 03:47 PM
  #24916  
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks


I'd suggest a soak in vinegar for the rust but not sure if it will affect the paint.
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Old 08-11-21, 04:04 PM
  #24917  
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Wood Bleach aka diluted oxalic acid. Eats rust, not paint.
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Old 08-11-21, 07:02 PM
  #24918  
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Originally Posted by gster View Post
I would call this bike a true Scorcher.

Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.
Dude, thatís my bike! Honored that you would hold it up as an example.
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Old 08-11-21, 09:12 PM
  #24919  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
Dude, thatís my bike! Honored that you would hold it up as an example.
Your bike is gorgeous! I dig the scorcher look.
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Old 08-12-21, 05:01 AM
  #24920  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
Dude, thatís my bike! Honored that you would hold it up as an example.
Your bike checks all the boxes.
Nicely done.
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Old 08-12-21, 04:09 PM
  #24921  
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Thanks all! It’s a hoot to ride. A year has gone by since I could pull it out of the bike shed which I was finally able to do two days ago. Much rearranging of bikes, projects and stuff to keep or sell to be done.

As for that beaut, some air, a Brooks atop the post and away I will go!
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Old 08-15-21, 07:07 AM
  #24922  
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Don't see many of this brand for sale, and it's cheap.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...74259470715732



I guess I thought the bikes were manufactured in Canada, but evidently they were made for Canadian Tire in England.

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Old 08-15-21, 01:46 PM
  #24923  
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Originally Posted by thumpism View Post
Don't see many of this brand for sale, and it's cheap.
Many Supercycles were Raleigh rebrands. I had a camel back single speed from the early-mid 60's that rocked my vintage world a long time ago. Also a Raleigh.
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Old 08-15-21, 02:28 PM
  #24924  
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Sears-puch? Goodness.
25$ and wd40 made everything work.
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Old 08-15-21, 02:46 PM
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I see your rear reflector is kaput like mine. Great Puch bike and will be a sweet cruiser for you. I am working on the men’s version in a month or so.
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