For the love of English 3 speeds...
08-10-21, 05:22 PM
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Salubrious , thanks for the link. I found a rim on eBay with local pickup for $40. Do we have wheelbuilders in the house? Because, I'll need to order the correct spokes to lace it up to my SA 3 speed.
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08-10-21, 07:33 PM
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[QUOTE=clubman;22176265]IMO, the original, older SA shifter cables with fulcrum stops are superior. Far less friction and typically, they are impervious to oxidation as well as accommodating wider variations of stem and bar combinations./QUOTE]
This is the reason I asked. Rust had a 3 courses meal on it.
Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?
.
Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua
I have 3 Raleighs and A Hercules. I never had a problem with any cable getting in my feet. The gear cable is protected. Therefore it does not tend to rust.
One of the Raleigh have that upper way and is totally open to the weather conditions,
The pulley is rusted. Part of its restoration to come. [Still cant post pics.Frustrating]
One of the Raleigh have that upper way and is totally open to the weather conditions,
The pulley is rusted. Part of its restoration to come. [Still cant post pics.Frustrating]
Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?
.
Last edited by ConnoisseurEqua; 08-10-21 at 07:36 PM.
08-10-21, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
WRT brakes, if you were getting squealing with the new Kool Stops, you need to twist the calipers a bit so that the trailing edge of the brake pad contacts the rim first. It doesn't take much but if they set down at the same time along their length, the pads (and rim) will squeal.
08-10-21, 07:50 PM
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[QUOTE=ConnoisseurEqua;22179446]
Yuk! I’d take a couple of the worst parts off, soak them in white vinegar, then scrub with either aluminum foil (which I found awkward) or buy brass-bristle brushes (preferred). If they clean up decently, you’ll know the lesser-rusted parts will look even better.
I just did the same thing on a bike that had been baked in the Arizona sun, so the rust was more surface rust than yours. It cleaned up well, whereas yours appears to have metal missing on the pulley mount.
Originally Posted by clubman
IMO, the original, older SA shifter cables with fulcrum stops are superior. Far less friction and typically, they are impervious to oxidation as well as accommodating wider variations of stem and bar combinations./QUOTE]
This is the reason I asked. Rust had a 3 courses meal on it.
Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?
.
This is the reason I asked. Rust had a 3 courses meal on it.
Do you think it could be cleaned/salvaged?
.
I just did the same thing on a bike that had been baked in the Arizona sun, so the rust was more surface rust than yours. It cleaned up well, whereas yours appears to have metal missing on the pulley mount.
08-10-21, 08:05 PM
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"pulley mount" That's what they are called.
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.
Thanks
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.
Thanks
08-10-21, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by theofam
Finally hit 10 posts! Back in March a buddy gave me a couple old bikes he bought in a three-bike CL deal. He kept the Hawthorne. I got these rusty relics.
On the right is a Schwinn. I've no idea what model (have yet to research it). On the left is a Western Flyer with a 3-speed SA hub dated 1960.
The cotter crank was frozen. Many choice words were said getting it apart. I nearly scrapped the project due to difficulty removing the drive-side bearing cup. The SA hub was frozen. When I removed the rear wheel, the chain kept the same shape. You get the idea!
After hours removing rust with white vinegar, aluminum foil and brass brushes, I moved on to the SA hub.
Removing rust, piece by piece, was both a challenge and therapy.
Fast forward a couple months. Being a motorcycle fan, I realized I could flip the bars and rotate them to give the appearance of a 1920s board track racer. I also frequent a coffee shop rife with nice mountain bikes parked outside. I figured if I kept the original paint/patina, folks would look right past my bike to focus on the high-dollar stuff. So, here's the Western Flyer:
Being a coffee shop bike, and being born in '68, I had a plate made with its name - Mocha
After 10-20 hours getting Mocha on the road, I figured my time was worth more than $3.25/hour. So, I picked up a coffee shop bike for my wife on CL for $70. It's name, you ask? Java.
On the right is a Schwinn. I've no idea what model (have yet to research it). On the left is a Western Flyer with a 3-speed SA hub dated 1960.
The cotter crank was frozen. Many choice words were said getting it apart. I nearly scrapped the project due to difficulty removing the drive-side bearing cup. The SA hub was frozen. When I removed the rear wheel, the chain kept the same shape. You get the idea!
After hours removing rust with white vinegar, aluminum foil and brass brushes, I moved on to the SA hub.
Removing rust, piece by piece, was both a challenge and therapy.
Fast forward a couple months. Being a motorcycle fan, I realized I could flip the bars and rotate them to give the appearance of a 1920s board track racer. I also frequent a coffee shop rife with nice mountain bikes parked outside. I figured if I kept the original paint/patina, folks would look right past my bike to focus on the high-dollar stuff. So, here's the Western Flyer:
Being a coffee shop bike, and being born in '68, I had a plate made with its name - Mocha
After 10-20 hours getting Mocha on the road, I figured my time was worth more than $3.25/hour. So, I picked up a coffee shop bike for my wife on CL for $70. It's name, you ask? Java.
If you remove the fenders/chainguard, it's a full Scorcher.
This is also a Semi Scorcher
No fenders, no chainguard but upturned bars.
I quite like the look of the bars down but my neck and back disagree.
08-10-21, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua
"pulley mount" That's what they are called.
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.
Thanks
I ride 3 speed but am rather newbie to name their parts.
Thanks
Love to see a wide shot of the drive side. These bikes are usually worth cleaning up. Parts are usually available, just replace.
Last edited by clubman; 08-11-21 at 06:08 AM.
08-10-21, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
You've built what we've been calling a Semi Scorcher.
If you remove the fenders/chainguard, it's a full Scorcher.
This is also a Semi Scorcher
No fenders, no chainguard but upturned bars.
I quite like the look of the bars down but my neck and back disagree.
If you remove the fenders/chainguard, it's a full Scorcher.
This is also a Semi Scorcher
No fenders, no chainguard but upturned bars.
I quite like the look of the bars down but my neck and back disagree.
Thanks for the tutelage. Part of the fun for me taking on a new project(s) is learning the vocabulary associated with it. Each new endeavor makes me realize just how little I know of this world.
08-11-21, 04:34 AM
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I would call this bike a true Scorcher.
Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.
Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.
Last edited by gster; 08-11-21 at 03:40 PM.
08-11-21, 07:26 AM
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About the frozen pulley - the small securing screw on the pulley that holds the wheel on the axle is finely threaded, of small diameter, and made of relatively soft metal. One thing that may help is before removing the pulley from the frame, gently tap the flat bladed screw driver into the screw head slot using a hammer. Don't pound on it, but when setting the driver blade into the screw head, give the butt of the driver a little tap with a hammer to deliver a little shock to the screw. Sometimes this is enough to then turn the blade. If still frozen, add a little oil and try again. It's sort of like a very light-duty version of an impact driver. Do not attempt to force that small screw if it seems stuck - they strip or break.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
08-11-21, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by markk900
Correct me if I am wrong but I always understood that you wanted toe *in* (leading edge to contact first)…. Exact same principle as described so maybe it doesn’t matter but just thought I should check.
08-11-21, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
I'm going with 'wrong' on that one... I can't imagine how you would get the calipers to work properly that way; if the leaded edge contacts first, it will cause the caliper to distort and since its springy metal, I have to imagine it would squeal like crazy! At any rate I've never tried that.
https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-be...adjust-toe-in/
Also St Sheldon suggests toe-in to prevent squeal:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#squealing
08-11-21, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by theofam
Salubrious , thanks for the link. I found a rim on eBay with local pickup for $40. Do we have wheelbuilders in the house? Because, I'll need to order the correct spokes to lace it up to my SA 3 speed.
Originally Posted by markk900
Fair enough, though you got me to wondering where I thought that came from (because I have been adjusting for toe-in for years to eliminate squeal and wondered if I had been doing it improperly) and when I searched the interwebs it was clear that toe-in (leading edge touching slightly ahead of the rest of the pad) seemed to be the preferred method of setup..... here's one example:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-be...adjust-toe-in/
Also St Sheldon suggests toe-in to prevent squeal:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#squealing
https://www.renehersecycles.com/a-be...adjust-toe-in/
Also St Sheldon suggests toe-in to prevent squeal:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#squealing
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08-11-21, 03:34 PM
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Safe Clean
Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
08-11-21, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua
Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
08-11-21, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua
Hi
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
How do I clean up a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
There are some colours on it which I intend to preserve.
I tried common cleaners but no much changes.
Thanks
08-11-21, 04:04 PM
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Wood Bleach aka diluted oxalic acid. Eats rust, not paint.
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08-11-21, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gster
I would call this bike a true Scorcher.
Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.
Not one of my bikes but a very nice example.
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08-11-21, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Dude, that’s my bike! Honored that you would hold it up as an example.
08-12-21, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Dude, that’s my bike! Honored that you would hold it up as an example.
Nicely done.
08-12-21, 04:09 PM
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Thanks all! It’s a hoot to ride. A year has gone by since I could pull it out of the bike shed which I was finally able to do two days ago. Much rearranging of bikes, projects and stuff to keep or sell to be done.
As for that beaut, some air, a Brooks atop the post and away I will go!
As for that beaut, some air, a Brooks atop the post and away I will go!
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08-15-21, 07:07 AM
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Don't see many of this brand for sale, and it's cheap.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...74259470715732
I guess I thought the bikes were manufactured in Canada, but evidently they were made for Canadian Tire in England.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...74259470715732
I guess I thought the bikes were manufactured in Canada, but evidently they were made for Canadian Tire in England.
Last edited by thumpism; 08-15-21 at 07:10 AM.
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08-15-21, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by thumpism
Don't see many of this brand for sale, and it's cheap.
08-15-21, 02:28 PM
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Sears-puch? Goodness.
25$ and wd40 made everything work.
25$ and wd40 made everything work.
08-15-21, 02:46 PM
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I see your rear reflector is kaput like mine. Great Puch bike and will be a sweet cruiser for you. I am working on the men’s version in a month or so.
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