52telecaster

too small for me but a yng musician friend of mines girlfriend needed a bike. I couldn't believe there were no mechanical issues.

rich110

Does anyone know the difference between the KMC Z1 wide and the KMC S1?
It's for a Ralegh 3 speed SA hub
The only difference I see is the slightly taller plates.

gster

Canadian Tire has had a long history of sourcing bicycles from various suppliers, including CCM, Raleigh, Bridgestone and a host
of others over the years.. They're still selling bikes with the Supercycle label. No idea who supplies them now but mostly junk, in my opinion man.

FBOATSB 

On my three speed I went with the Z1 nickel plated because I like shiney things
These product descriptions are off of the amazonian juggernaut's website.
Z1 product description:
Features & detailsCompatible with all single speed drivetrains including; internal hub gear, BMX, track, fixed gear and mid motor e bikesHigh pin power with reinforced durabilityThicker outer plates for higher TORSION resistanceWider, bevelled inner plate more stable no drop designTensile strength 1200kgf.Brushless construction.Nickel plated.Supplied with joining link.1/2" X 1/8" pin length: 8.6 mm.112 links

S1 product description:
Features & detailsFor single speed use, Plate thickness and standard riveting Width: 8. 6mm/399g (112L)1/8th inchPackage Dimensions: 4" L x 3.9" W x 1" HCountry Of Origin : TaiwanSport type: CyclingFit type: Universal Fit

Edit: My conclusion, the Z1 is a little better, a little more expensive, but both come from a reliable manufacturer.

2fat2fly

Is there a way to tell what year an old Hercules hub is?
Spotted this on fleabay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/234141863570
I was wondering if it would be correct for a mid 50's Hercules or were these newer?
The bike I'm working on is old enough to have a BB oil port, and a Birmingham Head badge and fork.
Did the Hercules branded hubs have a date code? The only markings I see on the hub on ebay is a 'B Type 4'.
I wasn't sure if that gave the year or not?

clubman 

@2fat2fly, I think the 50's were exactly when these were marketed. No date codes.

arty dave

Yes to Shiney Things!

I like the sram 1/8" PC-1 nickel-plated chain for when I can't resurrect old chains. Cheap but strong, and the right vintage colour for us lot.

ConnoisseurEqua

I have remembered that I used those two products years ago but forgot about them. In my cupboard.
Rather impressive results after few minutes of light rubbing with a cotton cloth.
I will apply later a second coat and finish with my Dremel to shine it.

It did not affect the paint at all. That was done 3 days ago and no changes.



Polished with Silvo


Great products forgotten in my cupboard

ConnoisseurEqua

Would it be possible to use a 3 speed shifter lever with a 3-4 speed hub until I find a proper 3-4?

Secondly, a friend gave me a rusted wheel, well the inside is, with an AW 3 speed hub. [10/79]
Whats the difference with an AG 3 speed?
Worth using instead of the AG?
The hub seems in good order.
The inside wheel is really rusted, but the outer reasonably ok. So I used some of the spokes.
Thanks




Rigida Made in France 26 x1 3/8 Superchromix

oldspokes

I've seen both the AW and SW labeled Hercules like that. Rarely do they have date codes on the AW versions but I've seen dates on the SW hubs from the later 50's.
I think all the off brand hubs are kind of rare these days. That one looks pretty clean.

oldspokes

I've got a couple of clean ladies 5 speed Sprites, (S5 hubs), in the garage. I had a guy here yesterday looking at a Super Tourer I was selling and he spotted the two Sprites.
He offered me $250 for each of the rear hubs. He doesn't want the whole bikes, just the hubs.
(I had bought the two Sprites about 12 years ago because they both had minty clean wheels on them, but I couldn't bring myself to strip them for the rims after seeing how clean they both were).
But his offer has got me thinking. I scertainly couldn't sell either one whole for that amount, I tried, and didn't get a single reply at $150 for them on CL and FB.

$500 in pocket is starting to sound tempting, plus I keep the bikes and could just swap the S5's out for a pair of AW hubs and they're still good to go, or just strip them down and use the wheels like I intended, and hang the rest on the wall. I ride the one off an on, its got a pair of saddle baskets and I tend to take that bike when I take my early morning ride around the neighborhood on trash day. I never really used the upper and lower gears, I just ride them as a three speed anyhow. I'd likely just ad a larger rear cog and call it a day. Both are converted to dual trigger shifters, they were like that when I got them.
I had saved them because they were both taller frame ladies bikes, both with Prestube racks, their original headlamps, and one with a Dynohub.
I guess in a way I was keeping them around for when I get too old to get on my standard frame bikes.
One of those racks would also look great on my 23" men's model, and their chrome bits would also be an upgrade.
How many would sell the S5 hubs? (I didn't realize they were worth so much either).

ConnoisseurEqua

Hi
I have a problem with my 40yo Raleighs.
2 spokes broke on both of them during the last few months.
Both have a hub with a Dyno 3 speed.
I tried to replace 3 of them when I realised that the 4th broke. I don't know when it did actually.
Is it ok to replace them with similar spokes taken from other wheel?
Well one.
They are not the same size by 1-2 mm, so I cut them.

I also notices that the wheel are not perfectly true [? ]. A bit of a spine curved. I noticed it while fixing the brakes pads.
I YouTubed them but the explanation is as clear as a muddy water to me.
If its bend to one side, screw the other side. Not really conclusive.
I tend to do everything on all my 3-4 speed bikes. More recently as I have more time on my hands.
Any ways to understand this jargon a bit more easily?
Thanks

theofam

3-Speed English bikes are following me home at an alarming rate. I can't find any information on this forum about Alpha. But, I picked this up via CL this morning. A single-owner bike (I'm guessing the seller's dad passed away), the dad purchased this bike in 1962 in Pasadena, Calif. I'll clean it up, but the patina, including stickers and decals, will stay. If you know anything about Alpha bicycles (my GoogleFu didn't even come up with anything), please chime in.







I love the old dealer sticker and registration sticker.


I'm also digging Alpha on the chainguard.


The rear and front hubs are heavily lubed. Check out the left chain stay. It has a lock on it. I can't get it to work yet. The ad said "solid tires." The wheels' Schraeder holes have no valve stems, but yet, something is in there. Can't figure out what dad put in there to make it rideable.

thumpism

Can't recall the name but I installed a few of those flatproof things in the late '70s; they're like thick butyl donuts. You might need to saw the tires off to remove them.

clubman 

It's an interesting bike, maybe an amalgamation of Birmingham bikes being absorbed into the Borg of Nottingham around 1961. First thing I'd do is stop trying to tune it up and clean it top to toe. Show us the rear hub, clean! Wheel truing on these bikes is easy but still require a methodology to get there. Second is ditch the kickstand and chain stay lock until you know it won't rip your spokes out. That design never went far but you can keep it for later. Spoke reflectors etc. Lookds like a Raleigh chainguard but the mudguards are unusual. As I said, cool bike.

markk900

it might help to visualize what is happening - if the rim is off centre to say the right, the spokes nearest the spot that go to the right should be loosened to push the rim back towards centre while the ones that go to the left need to be tightened to pull the rim over. This is from the perspective of looking at the wheel from directly above. You will see some spokes go to the right flange of the hub and alternate spokes go to the left.

the main thing is to “spread” your correction over say 6-8 spokes and only make very slight adjustments; the further from the centre of the trouble spot the less adjustment you make. I rarely twist more than 1/8 turn at a time at the worst spot; sometimes it’s just a slight twist.

if you proceed slowly and carefully you can get things pretty good. Also remember the whole wheel is a “system” so changes at one spot can affect others; so don’t just concentrate on the original trouble spot but check the whole wheel as you go. Have fun!

theofam

Roger that. I’ll get it clean first and report back. It’ll likely be a week or so, given other to do items.

Glad you think it’s cool! The CL pic wasn’t a good one. I just assumed it would be a Raleigh, but this Alpha angle, coupled with the lack of info on it, has me intrigued.

clubman 

Second glance, Raleigh mudguards. Paint and pinstripes are like Hercules. more input needed.

Maybe Austrian, don't recognize the rear mudguard stay bosses.

3speedslow

Not Austrian. Nothing like the Austrian 3 speed I will start cleaning next month. Interesting machine for sure and yes, we need the rear hub cleaned up.

ConnoisseurEqua

That makes more sense to me.
I was turning at least half a turn. I would say that the gap increases at its max by 4-6mm.
I use this kind of wrench. [on 15]
I will study it and when perfectly understood, do my best to fix it. Thanks.

markk900

cornucopia72 : I should point out that if the rim is physically bent this may not solve the problem.

Also I use the same type of spoke wrench (for some reason almost always on 14). You might want to spray a small amount of lube into the spoke nipples in case they are a bit seized or you risk breaking a spike. And when you are done, if you made a largish adjustment (tightening) you need to check the end of the spoke is not above the top of the nipple when viewed from inside the rim. If so grind down the end so it cannot puncture the tube.

Unca_Sam

I understand the desire to just fix it and go, but tightening and loosening spokes to correct lateral true ignores that the entire wheel, especially at that age, should be checked for radial true (the wheel is round), lateral true (the side of the rim exists in the same plane), and deviation from average spoke tension. Spoke tension determines spoke longevity, while the other two affect ride and braking.

On old wheels, I'll fix radial problems and then lateral problems, and then check dish (SA hubs are great because it's simple to center the rim between the lock nuts). Then I check my work with a tension gauge (you don't need one, just pluck a spoke with a pick or your thumbnail and match the tone around the wheel.) This last test finds me spokes that are doing more work than they should, or not enough, and lets me rationally spread the load in the direction it needs to go. It makes more sense if you do it enough times, but ultimately you'll have a 'musical' wheel, as the spokes are generally 'in tune'.
I'm not kidding, a bare rim can ring like a bell once done.

markk900

Unca_Sam : agree but it looks like cornucopia72 is relatively new to truing and throwing too many variables at the situation may not help. A check for radial trueness is pretty easy (strap a ruler across the stays/forks just above the rim (no tyre) and watch to see if the rim goes up and down. Use the same ruler with a mark in the centre to look for dish. Centre of rim should stay under the mark. I usually also make two additional marks - one above either edge of a centred rim to make it easy to also check lateral trueness. And for spoke tension I use a screwdriver lightly banging against the spokes - though I may be tone deaf as I rarely get them all to sound the same as they are supposed to! But if they are close I call it “good enough”!

ConnoisseurEqua

Mark, I'm trying to follow, but who's cornucopia72 ?

markk900

Whoops - sorry ConnoisseurEqua ! Wrong tag…