For the love of English 3 speeds...
04-13-12, 12:55 PM
#3101
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I've been pretty happy with the Michelin World Tour and have bought 4 so far. I recently put them on my '54 Sports. It's a nice-looking tire and even has the reflective sidewall.
I"m not sure if Niagara will ship to Colombia -but it is worth a try. Either through Amazon or directly through Niagara themselves on their own store.
I"m not sure if Niagara will ship to Colombia -but it is worth a try. Either through Amazon or directly through Niagara themselves on their own store.
, but how does the Michelin World Tour compare with the Panaracer Col de Vie? My Sunlite Nimbus tires have plenty of life left in them and ride fine, but I wouldn't mind something suppler and/or faster next time around. 
04-13-12, 02:12 PM
#3102
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I just picked up this old three speed that my neighbor kept in his shed for years. Amazingly the old tires still hold air and I was able to take it for a short ride, everything still works. Our moist climate has taken a toll on the chrome and the fenders are pretty much done for. I would like to replace the tires, not sure what size they are though. It rides very smooth but it takes some effort to get this thing up to speed. Model is Raleigh tourist. These pics are before I cleaned it up at all. This bike was likely destined for the scrap yard but I couldn't let that happen as it looks like it was a very nice bicycle in its day.
Last edited by pitchpole; 04-13-12 at 02:20 PM.
04-13-12, 02:54 PM
#3103
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That is a DL-1 from the late 70s. Those mudguards are pretty thick, you'd be surprised what a good scrubbing with a rag and a touch of motor oil can do to improve the finish. The chrome tends to clean up nicely by scrubbing with wadded up aluminium foil (the foil is softer than chrome but harder than rust).
As far as mechanicals go, add some motor oil (no 3 in 1, actual motor oil) into the rear hub (there is a port in the hub shell), down the seattube (to get oil into the bottom bracket), and front hub (do 70s DL-1s have oil ports for the front hubs?). This will clean out any accumulated gunk in the bearings, although you ought to do it outside because the oil will drip out and create a mess.
The tires are 28 x 1 1/2 (ERTO 635). These can be found online in black, gumwall and even in cream.
If you don't like the slow accelaration, you could get a larger rear cog. Raleigh tourists if I recall correctly came with 18 tooth cogs. The cogs are the same cogs that coaster brakes use.
As far as mechanicals go, add some motor oil (no 3 in 1, actual motor oil) into the rear hub (there is a port in the hub shell), down the seattube (to get oil into the bottom bracket), and front hub (do 70s DL-1s have oil ports for the front hubs?). This will clean out any accumulated gunk in the bearings, although you ought to do it outside because the oil will drip out and create a mess.
The tires are 28 x 1 1/2 (ERTO 635). These can be found online in black, gumwall and even in cream.
If you don't like the slow accelaration, you could get a larger rear cog. Raleigh tourists if I recall correctly came with 18 tooth cogs. The cogs are the same cogs that coaster brakes use.
04-13-12, 03:49 PM
#3104
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What gumwall 28 X 1 1/2 (ERTO 635) tires have you seen for sale?
Thanks. -D
Thanks. -D
That is a DL-1 from the late 70s. Those mudguards are pretty thick, you'd be surprised what a good scrubbing with a rag and a touch of motor oil can do to improve the finish. The chrome tends to clean up nicely by scrubbing with wadded up aluminium foil (the foil is softer than chrome but harder than rust).
As far as mechanicals go, add some motor oil (no 3 in 1, actual motor oil) into the rear hub (there is a port in the hub shell), down the seattube (to get oil into the bottom bracket), and front hub (do 70s DL-1s have oil ports for the front hubs?). This will clean out any accumulated gunk in the bearings, although you ought to do it outside because the oil will drip out and create a mess.
The tires are 28 x 1 1/2 (ERTO 635). These can be found online in black, gumwall and even in cream.
If you don't like the slow accelaration, you could get a larger rear cog. Raleigh tourists if I recall correctly came with 18 tooth cogs. The cogs are the same cogs that coaster brakes use.
As far as mechanicals go, add some motor oil (no 3 in 1, actual motor oil) into the rear hub (there is a port in the hub shell), down the seattube (to get oil into the bottom bracket), and front hub (do 70s DL-1s have oil ports for the front hubs?). This will clean out any accumulated gunk in the bearings, although you ought to do it outside because the oil will drip out and create a mess.
The tires are 28 x 1 1/2 (ERTO 635). These can be found online in black, gumwall and even in cream.
If you don't like the slow accelaration, you could get a larger rear cog. Raleigh tourists if I recall correctly came with 18 tooth cogs. The cogs are the same cogs that coaster brakes use.
04-13-12, 08:26 PM
#3105
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I might have exaggerated on gumwalls, although I have seen them in bike shops in Colombia as well as Indian roadsters sold in Colombia.
I have also seen Aluminium 28 x 1 1/2 rims for about 10 usd per rim. Singlewall, a bit dainty, but they are equipped to new Indian roadsters the bike shops sell for a ~25 usd premium over the steel rim version.
I have a beaten up roadster frame that I'm planning on building up with these rims. Since the rims are a touch on the dainty side, I'm planning on using rim washers. When calculating ERD, do you calculate it with or without the washers?
I have also seen Aluminium 28 x 1 1/2 rims for about 10 usd per rim. Singlewall, a bit dainty, but they are equipped to new Indian roadsters the bike shops sell for a ~25 usd premium over the steel rim version.
I have a beaten up roadster frame that I'm planning on building up with these rims. Since the rims are a touch on the dainty side, I'm planning on using rim washers. When calculating ERD, do you calculate it with or without the washers?
04-14-12, 12:40 PM
#3106
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Pitchpole:
FYI, I came across this blog post about rehabing an old frame (he has an entire series abt refurbishing an old Raleigh 3-spd). Plus, it's a great blog abt Raleigh's anyway. https://bosrug2.blogspot.com/2012/01/...one-frame.html
S
FYI, I came across this blog post about rehabing an old frame (he has an entire series abt refurbishing an old Raleigh 3-spd). Plus, it's a great blog abt Raleigh's anyway. https://bosrug2.blogspot.com/2012/01/...one-frame.html
S
04-14-12, 08:56 PM
#3107
Junior Member
Not sure why a search of the thread won't accept "front hub" as a term and wants to instead give me every separate instance of front and hub. My internets skillz are deficient. That aside, my 1981 Tourist front hub bearings are worn rather badly yielding a noticeable wobble in the front wheel. Some googling around on the subject seems to be equally divided on disassembling the hub and replacing the bearings plus repacking them against simply replacing it with a modern alloy wheel. I'd rather keep the original wheel if possible but I'd like a working bike even more. What does the collected wisdom think on the matter?
04-14-12, 09:13 PM
#3108
aka Tom Reingold
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would it be worth seeing if one of us could ship tires to you in Columbia?
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04-14-12, 10:24 PM
#3109
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Today I went to town to check out what availability there was, and for the most part, everyone defaulted to some variation of "those can be probably found in Bogota". There was even a bike shop who's owner guessed that I had a Raleigh from my description of the wheels. Internal gear hubs as well as drum brake hubs are pretty darn rare in Colombia, and some have suggested that I bring over some hubs for sale.
For now, I think I'll have a functional pair of tires ordered from Bogota through a bike shop here. Later on, I'll be sure to get some nice tires next time I go to the US, probably later this year.
I'm thankful for the outpouring of advice and offers of help, words fail to describe my awe for BF.
For now, I think I'll have a functional pair of tires ordered from Bogota through a bike shop here. Later on, I'll be sure to get some nice tires next time I go to the US, probably later this year.
I'm thankful for the outpouring of advice and offers of help, words fail to describe my awe for BF.
04-15-12, 12:45 PM
#3110
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1971 Raleigh Sprite 27 built up from components circa 1946-present. Will likely be replacing the pedals with better ones from the 1950s. Since taking the photos the shift cable housing has been change to metallic braid to match the brake cable housing and the bar tilt has been adjusted slightly for comfort.
Edit: 700c CR-18 rims (with koolstops and the new stiff cable & housing they stop like champs), clamps & pegs are "British made" Cyclo ones which screw securely like the modern DiaCompe ones. Mud flap doesn't drag -the photos were taken on really uneven ground in my condo complex's inner courtyard. The chain will rattle and rub the inside of the case if on rough pavement but otherwise is very smooth & quiet (well, it does makes a soft but pleasant mechanical hum) on any decently paved surface. Since the Sprite frames of the era were re-purposed Record frames the tubing is thick enough to absorb most road vibrations, but light enough to accelerate really well.
Herons hiding in the chain-case.
Edit: 700c CR-18 rims (with koolstops and the new stiff cable & housing they stop like champs), clamps & pegs are "British made" Cyclo ones which screw securely like the modern DiaCompe ones. Mud flap doesn't drag -the photos were taken on really uneven ground in my condo complex's inner courtyard. The chain will rattle and rub the inside of the case if on rough pavement but otherwise is very smooth & quiet (well, it does makes a soft but pleasant mechanical hum) on any decently paved surface. Since the Sprite frames of the era were re-purposed Record frames the tubing is thick enough to absorb most road vibrations, but light enough to accelerate really well.
Herons hiding in the chain-case.
Last edited by Fenway; 05-12-12 at 04:12 PM. Reason: fixing image code, responding to questions, added 2 updated photos with the replaced shift cable housing
04-15-12, 01:08 PM
#3111
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Fenway: Nice bike! I think this is one of the best 27" 3 speed conversions thus far in this thread. This is a true clubman bike dressed for the work week.
What rims are those? How are the clamp ons holding, is there any rattling? Does the mudflap drag?
What rims are those? How are the clamp ons holding, is there any rattling? Does the mudflap drag?
04-16-12, 06:34 AM
#3114
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1971 Raleigh Sprite 27 built up from components circa 1946-present. Will likely be replacing the pedals with better ones from the 1950s and changing the shift cable housing to metallic braid to match the brake cable housing. Maybe I'll switch to Lauterwasser bars or something with less depth of the bend too, the current ones are a little too low for the comfort of my hands and the stem is already at about the minimum insertion distance.
Edit: 700c CR-18 rims (with koolstops and the new stiff cable & housing they stop like champs), clamps & pegs are "British made" Cyclo ones which screw securely like the modern DiaCompe ones. Mud flap doesn't drag -the photos were taken on really uneven ground in my condo complex's inner courtyard. The chain will rattle and rub the inside of the case if on rough pavement but otherwise is very smooth & quiet (well, it does makes a soft but pleasant mechanical hum) on any decently paved surface. Since the Sprite frames of the era were re-purposed Record frames the tubing is thick enough to absorb most road vibrations, but light enough to accelerate really well.
Herons hiding in the chain-case.
Edit: 700c CR-18 rims (with koolstops and the new stiff cable & housing they stop like champs), clamps & pegs are "British made" Cyclo ones which screw securely like the modern DiaCompe ones. Mud flap doesn't drag -the photos were taken on really uneven ground in my condo complex's inner courtyard. The chain will rattle and rub the inside of the case if on rough pavement but otherwise is very smooth & quiet (well, it does makes a soft but pleasant mechanical hum) on any decently paved surface. Since the Sprite frames of the era were re-purposed Record frames the tubing is thick enough to absorb most road vibrations, but light enough to accelerate really well.
Herons hiding in the chain-case.
04-16-12, 06:56 AM
#3115
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04-16-12, 12:47 PM
#3117
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Welcome, Elad! I hope you can browse this thread a fair bit. But feel free to ask questions here, too.
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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04-17-12, 11:02 AM
#3118
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Nice Fenway! You'll look very proper arriving on such a well appointed ride.
04-17-12, 11:55 AM
#3120
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Very nice. I just let a 1958 Lenton MK111 frame and parts go. Already regretting it. I think mine could leave the shop in either 4 speed, fixed or SA.
04-18-12, 12:06 PM
#3121
waverley610
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Direct from original owner who rode & toured this machine for 54 years before ill health ended his wheeling. A little air into the rear tyre and rode out 20 miles on Sunday.
JAMES Arrow Ace 1954 James Cycle Co Ltd London & Birmingham (1880-1966)
All Reynolds 531 but the frame broke in '56 and when James replaced they no longer were using 531 so sent a bonderized frame with close matching paint; see the original shade of green on 531 forks...
Otherwise pretty much all original, the FW4 alloy hub was fitted with an extra cog for touring Scotland, England, France, Belgium; (the simplex shifter wore out and was discarded years ago!), working Miller dynamo & lamps.
Arrow Ace 'cycling' magazine 1953 advertisement
I will not be touching the cosmetics of this ride; a wipe down with an oily rag,
a new spoke & tyre plus some very minor work under way, back to '54 spec.
JAMES Arrow Ace 1954 James Cycle Co Ltd London & Birmingham (1880-1966)
All Reynolds 531 but the frame broke in '56 and when James replaced they no longer were using 531 so sent a bonderized frame with close matching paint; see the original shade of green on 531 forks...
Otherwise pretty much all original, the FW4 alloy hub was fitted with an extra cog for touring Scotland, England, France, Belgium; (the simplex shifter wore out and was discarded years ago!), working Miller dynamo & lamps.
Arrow Ace 'cycling' magazine 1953 advertisement
I will not be touching the cosmetics of this ride; a wipe down with an oily rag,
a new spoke & tyre plus some very minor work under way, back to '54 spec.
04-18-12, 01:14 PM
#3122
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Direct from original owner who rode & toured this machine for 54 years before ill health ended his wheeling. A little air into the rear tyre and rode out 20 miles on Sunday.
JAMES Arrow Ace 1954 James Cycle Co Ltd London & Birmingham (1880-1966)
All Reynolds 531 but the frame broke in '56 and when James replaced they no longer were using 531 so sent a bonderized frame with close matching paint; see the original shade of green on 531 forks...
Otherwise pretty much all original, the FW4 alloy hub was fitted with an extra cog for touring Scotland, England, France, Belgium; (the simplex shifter wore out and was discarded years ago!), working Miller dynamo & lamps.
Arrow Ace 'cycling' magazine 1953 advertisement
I will not be touching the cosmetics of this ride; a wipe down with an oily rag,
a new spoke & tyre plus some very minor work under way, back to '54 spec.
JAMES Arrow Ace 1954 James Cycle Co Ltd London & Birmingham (1880-1966)
All Reynolds 531 but the frame broke in '56 and when James replaced they no longer were using 531 so sent a bonderized frame with close matching paint; see the original shade of green on 531 forks...
Otherwise pretty much all original, the FW4 alloy hub was fitted with an extra cog for touring Scotland, England, France, Belgium; (the simplex shifter wore out and was discarded years ago!), working Miller dynamo & lamps.
Arrow Ace 'cycling' magazine 1953 advertisement
I will not be touching the cosmetics of this ride; a wipe down with an oily rag,
a new spoke & tyre plus some very minor work under way, back to '54 spec.
04-18-12, 02:26 PM
#3123
waverley610
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Thanks. Could have gone in the 'saved from the dump' or 'show us your vintage touring bikes' threads just as easily.
Hub is a 54 2; technically an 8 speed !? I had to post here being a hub gear man who finds derailleur's hard enough to spell let alone ride !
Would be a hard to learn trick jumping between those cogs I imagine but maybe something to play with in the future.
Hubs all the way!
Hub is a 54 2; technically an 8 speed !? I had to post here being a hub gear man who finds derailleur's hard enough to spell let alone ride !
Would be a hard to learn trick jumping between those cogs I imagine but maybe something to play with in the future.
Hubs all the way!
Last edited by waverley610; 04-18-12 at 02:28 PM. Reason: typo
04-18-12, 03:09 PM
#3124
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Thanks. Could have gone in the 'saved from the dump' or 'show us your vintage touring bikes' threads just as easily.
Hub is a 54 2; technically an 8 speed !? I had to post here being a hub gear man who finds derailleur's hard enough to spell let alone ride !
Would be a hard to learn trick jumping between those cogs I imagine but maybe something to play with in the future.
Hubs all the way!
Hub is a 54 2; technically an 8 speed !? I had to post here being a hub gear man who finds derailleur's hard enough to spell let alone ride !
Would be a hard to learn trick jumping between those cogs I imagine but maybe something to play with in the future.
Hubs all the way!
Actually, 3-speed, 4-speed, 8-speed - I'm not one to judge. If they allow 4-speed bikes to ride in the Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour, who am I keep someone from placing a nice English 4-speed or 8-speed IGH bike in this thread.
All you need to do is loosen the nuts on the axle, adjust the chain, adjust the shifter linkage and you're back on your merry way. I would imagine it taking less than 5 minutes with some practice.
I noticed the chainring sitting on the ground in front of the bike in one of the pictures. Do you plan to put it back on the bike at some point in the future?
04-25-12, 09:16 PM
#3125
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New to me Raleigh.
Trying a post with a picture for the first time. Here is my 73 Raleigh Sports. I love this bike.
