For the love of English 3 speeds...
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So they came on the handlebars.They must be quite old. What a stroke of luck. Funny how after you look at old bikes long enough small details stand out. My eye wants to see them on pre war rod brake roadsters. I don't know the thinking behind this, but all of the English manufacturers seemed to use the short grips on rod brake bikes and longer ones on caliper brake bikes. Not sure when this changed. My 1970 DL-1 came with the same full length Dare grips as the Sports.
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https://www.hoopriderparts.com/Cyclo..._17463464.aspx
They have lots of interesting stuff including a NOS Benelux Derailleur click above, early pattern, where would you find one!!!!
I bought a set of NOS Bluemels 27" Fenders.
They have lots of interesting stuff including a NOS Benelux Derailleur click above, early pattern, where would you find one!!!!
I bought a set of NOS Bluemels 27" Fenders.
I ordered some extra things (which I'll use) to qualify for free shipping.
I placed the order on a Thursday, it was shipped Friday and arrived
at my house Monday.
They also have items not listed on their site.
NOS rear brake cables @ $4.00 if you order 4 or more.
I think it was you who steered me to these guys.
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Actually, yours is the second style trigger shifter which is a good thing. This one has the far superior design with an internal spring and uses the same sausage cable end as modern triggers. Good find. The first style uses a lolly pop type cable end, has a longer lever and an external spring which tends to get lost.
I am over the moon with the one I have!!!
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So they came on the handlebars.They must be quite old. What a stroke of luck. Funny how after you look at old bikes long enough small details stand out. My eye wants to see them on pre war rod brake roadsters. I don't know the thinking behind this, but all of the English manufacturers seemed to use the short grips on rod brake bikes and longer ones on caliper brake bikes. Not sure when this changed. My 1970 DL-1 came with the same full length Dare grips as the Sports.
Used with a few scuffs but very presentable.
I also got this NOS GB stem for a very reasonable $28.00
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a kit boat (make unknown but could be a Gren-ell).
Built circa 1955-1957.
I doubt it spent much time in the water and suspect
there may have been a small collision
(broken windshield, bent steering wheel)
I'm removing the screw filler and replacing.
I don't think I can remove any of the older screws
but will reinforce with new in the spaces between
originals.
Like a British bike, the boat as found, has little
real value.
Not being a brand name, Duke, Minett etc.
it will never be worth much but as with all
of this "stuff" the value is in the satisfaction
of accomplishment.
Also, if I don't have a "project" I can get a bit
"squirrely"...
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I've done a lot of research on this boat and have determined that it's
a kit boat (make unknown but could be a Gren-ell).
Built circa 1955-1957.
I doubt it spent much time in the water and suspect
there may have been a small collision
(broken windshield, bent steering wheel)
I'm removing the screw filler and replacing.
I don't think I can remove any of the older screws
but will reinforce with new in the spaces between
originals.
Like a British bike, the boat as found, has little
real value.
Not being a brand name, Duke, Minett etc.
it will never be worth much but as with all
of this "stuff" the value is in the satisfaction
of accomplishment.
Also, if I don't have a "project" I can get a bit
"squirrely"...
a kit boat (make unknown but could be a Gren-ell).
Built circa 1955-1957.
I doubt it spent much time in the water and suspect
there may have been a small collision
(broken windshield, bent steering wheel)
I'm removing the screw filler and replacing.
I don't think I can remove any of the older screws
but will reinforce with new in the spaces between
originals.
Like a British bike, the boat as found, has little
real value.
Not being a brand name, Duke, Minett etc.
it will never be worth much but as with all
of this "stuff" the value is in the satisfaction
of accomplishment.
Also, if I don't have a "project" I can get a bit
"squirrely"...
The boat when finished with that lovely decking Lacquered the upholstery done and the refurbish Mercury 1965 engine everyone will want a ride in it!!!!
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They have some rare parts on the site, I bought the NOS blue Bluemels fenders, really nice. shipping to UK is not cheap but where would I have got them in that condition?
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That Engine is so Art Deco, fantastic, the casing is in such nice condition!!!
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I agree and my Humber when new could have had either in 1948 (both would have been available) what I have bought is period correct. It would be like looking for Hens Teeth to get the earlier pattern you show, especially in good order (It looks like you have one, good on you!!!) though cable should not be too much of a problem as I am sure the BSA 3 speed trigger cable might fit, it has a similar lolly pop nipple I have a spare one of those fortunately for my BSA Roadster.
I am over the moon with the one I have!!!
I am over the moon with the one I have!!!
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I actually bought 2.
The 1965 as pictured was missing the lower unit.
So I bought a 68 parts motor with a decent lower unit.
The seller was a vintage car/boat guy and he had a good
story about the 65 being a old guy's spare engine....
He only took it to church on Sundays...
We'll see.
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Many people would not see the potential in a bike like this, nor have the will to see it put right.
Looking forward to the progress reports.
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Yes, I spent some time searching this out.
I actually bought 2.
The 1965 as pictured was missing the lower unit.
So I bought a 68 parts motor with a decent lower unit.
The seller was a vintage car/boat guy and he had a good
story about the 65 being a old guy's spare engine....
He only took it to church on Sundays...
We'll see.
I actually bought 2.
The 1965 as pictured was missing the lower unit.
So I bought a 68 parts motor with a decent lower unit.
The seller was a vintage car/boat guy and he had a good
story about the 65 being a old guy's spare engine....
He only took it to church on Sundays...
We'll see.
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Hello all
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
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That doesn't sound right. Why won't the press 'fit over the top'?
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I'm a little confused about the angle. There isn't room to place the press overtop of the cotter and align the bolt properly above the cotter pin. During disassembly, the press fits with the crank arm inside the 'C', and I just pushed out the cotter pin.
It may be something obvious I'm missing. I also can't seem to get the AG hub cone adjustment done correctly today either. I did take apart the right (drive) side to have a look inside and service the bearings. Now I can't get thr adjustment right - it also seems like I have less space on the drive side axle end. I think the right side cone isn't correct. One of those shop days...
It may be something obvious I'm missing. I also can't seem to get the AG hub cone adjustment done correctly today either. I did take apart the right (drive) side to have a look inside and service the bearings. Now I can't get thr adjustment right - it also seems like I have less space on the drive side axle end. I think the right side cone isn't correct. One of those shop days...
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The press should be at a right angle with respect to the crank arm. Are you coming at it from the side?
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Hello all
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
Last edited by clubman; 04-29-19 at 03:22 PM.
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Hello all
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
seat themselves about 1/2 way in. Then use the press (or hammer) to fully drive them home.
Not sure about your hub...
You should back off the non drive side cone and then tighten the drive side cone (finger tight)
Hub adjustment is then completed by tightening the non drive side (finger tight) and then
backing off perhaps a 1/4-1/2 turn to allow for play.
Once installed with the chain attached, the non drive side can be further adjusted.
Ideally the hub should spin freely with little or no spinning of the crank and a little
side to side play of the hub.
It's all a matter of "touch".
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Sounds like you're saying the pin sits too 'high' for the press to engage? By all means, tap it down a little, heeding the orientation of the bevel and finish the job as soon as the press fits. And remember the cotter pins orient 180 degrees to each other, so that your pant cuffs won't catch on the nut end, rather the domed top end of the cotter. If that makes sense?
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If you slip the crank arms on the axle, rotate them and peer through the cotter pin hole, you'll see the axle flats line up with the hole and it becomes evident that the cotter's bevelled face will mate with the axle flat. You should review Sheldons page and look up a video before attempting for the first time.
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If the cranks are properly aligned with the spindle, the cotters should fit in by hand and
seat themselves about 1/2 way in. Then use the press (or hammer) to fully drive them home.
Not sure about your hub...
You should back off the non drive side cone and then tighten the drive side cone (finger tight)
Hub adjustment is then completed by tightening the non drive side (finger tight) and then
backing off perhaps a 1/4-1/2 turn to allow for play.
Once installed with the chain attached, the non drive side can be further adjusted.
Ideally the hub should spin freely with little or no spinning of the crank and a little
side to side play of the hub.
It's all a matter of "touch".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNxwMwzS3Jo
Over tightening the hub can mess up the innards...
seat themselves about 1/2 way in. Then use the press (or hammer) to fully drive them home.
Not sure about your hub...
You should back off the non drive side cone and then tighten the drive side cone (finger tight)
Hub adjustment is then completed by tightening the non drive side (finger tight) and then
backing off perhaps a 1/4-1/2 turn to allow for play.
Once installed with the chain attached, the non drive side can be further adjusted.
Ideally the hub should spin freely with little or no spinning of the crank and a little
side to side play of the hub.
It's all a matter of "touch".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNxwMwzS3Jo
Over tightening the hub can mess up the innards...
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I have never had a replacement cotter fit a Raleigh crank without filing the angle enough to get a tight fit and proper insertion. If it doesn't want to go, something is wrong . Lots of good ideas here for you to try. Good luck!
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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the hub full of grease.....
It seemed like a good idea at the time....
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If you slip the crank arms on the axle, rotate them and peer through the cotter pin hole, you'll see the axle flats line up with the hole and it becomes evident that the cotter's bevelled face will mate with the axle flat. You should review Sheldons page and look up a video before attempting for the first time.
I wish I'd have adjusted the left side only, but I wanted to get in there and take a look. I will have lots of practice at any rate with this AG, my parts bin AW, and the FW destined for the Peugeot. Thanks all, I'll update when I get back there this weekend.
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Hello all
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.
I'm finished with the bottom bracket overhaul and now I want to reinstall the cranks. I've got a cotter press and new pins from Mark at Bikesmith. However I'm not sure how to get them started (since the press won't fit over top). Do I encourage them with a hammer and then use the press to finish the job? I don't want to mess up since those cotter pins are precious.
Thanks.