1970s UO-18 upgrades
 

So, I've acquired a mid-70s mixte frame, and unfortunately the fork is trashed... as were the wheels and the bars, and well, everything on the bike, really. The frame is pretty dandy still, only a couple of minor rust spots. I checked the frame alignment with a string and it out about 1mm.

I'm hoping to build it up for my mum. She lives in fairly hilly terrain and is just getting back into cycling, so I'd like to put a triple in front, as it's kind of hilly where she lives. Are there any aluminum triples that wouldn't look horribly out of place on this bike?

I need two things to get started, an appropriate BB spindle (I don't have the old spindle, just the cups) and a suitable replacement fork... our co-op doesn't have anything and fleabay doesn't have anything.

bikepartsusa.com, nashbar.com, and a few other sites sell new forks, but they're a bit costly. You might be better off finding another peugeot (i.e. a UO-8 from a similar year) and swapping everything over.

As far as triples, I'd just go with one that's completely polished or satin, don't get one that's black.

Being for your mom, I'd go with upright bars and either stem shifters or thumb shifters. I'd also seriously think about just using a single chainring up front that is somewhere around 40 teeth, then get a good 7-8 speed hub for the back. that way you can run a chain guard, as well as fenders.

What do you mean by a "trashed fork?" If it needs refinishing, that can be done. If it has some small misalignments, those can be corrected. The steel of these bikes is more ductile (can be bent and bent back more easily and with no impact on strength) that that of modern steel bikes. This one of the benefits of the mild-carbon steel that was used on lower bikes in those days. The basic steel was a little weaker than CrMo, 4130, and others you find today, but it was made thicker to make up the strength, which is why the bikes are heavier. If you have a bike shop able to take this on, maybe with a tech who likes old steel ladies like this, it would probably cost less than a new fork, especially if a new headset is needed because of mechanical fit.

Many shops will tell you to get rid of it on general principles, just because it's French and they might not keep suitable parts, like a headset, in stock. Keep this in mind if you hear this.

I guess, if the old headset is usable, save $$ and see if it can be cheaply straightened and the paint touched up.

Regarding the crank spindle: I just returned a similar UO-8 to the road. I used the original BB cups, a Shimano spindle for a 600-6207 crank, and 11 0.25" balls on each side, with the 600/6207 crank. It rides well and adjusted smooth. Cost was essentialy zero since the Shimano parts were take-offs from my old Trek. If you're going to look for a French crank spindle for the original cottered cranks, I think you have a long search ahead of you. If you can find a Japanese silver triple used with its original spindle sized for an English BB, that should work in your Peugeot French cups just as well as mine did.

If you can spend some $$, Velo Orange for about $55 US sells a modern cartridge BB that is threaded for French frames but has square spindle ends made in JIS dimensions. That's probably the "proper" solution.

The seat tube diameter of these Peugs is a little smaller than that of Italian, American, British, and Japanese bikes of the day. Some clamp-on front derailleurs might need a brass shim to fit the tube correctly. You might be able to sidestep this minor hassle by keeping the original Simplex derailleur. If it hasn't been loosened and it doesn't have an aluminum clamp, only remove it with great care. Usually the plastic clamps from the late '60s and early '70s crack when removed or reinstalled.

The capacity of the original rear Simplex derailleur is pretty large, and it can actually shift pretty well if it isn't worn or broken. To replace it you'll need to get a rear derailleur with a claw. Most modern ones thread directly into the frame.

The internal gear hub with a single front chainwheel and a chain guard is a pretty good idea. I think Velo Orange has a French-style chainguard, complete with Art Deco styling.

If you are in Kitchener, you owe it to yourself to try looking for parts at Backpeddling in Guelph....they might have what you need (no Peugeot forks though - already looked).....for a misalignment of 1mm you should be able to get that straightened fairly easily.

On the crank, I find the SR cranks from the late 70s/early 80s look really good on Peugeots, and should be readily available. I got a couple of different sets off parts only bikes. the fact you still have the cups is great - while I still have my Sugino cups/bearings/spindle in a box (from when I ran a Mighty Comp crankset in the 70s), I am using the original Peugeot cups with and SR spindle and have had no trouble for years.

Mark

I should post a picture of the fork, the blades are bent askew different ways, it's quite bizarre. I'll be hitting up backpeddaling in a week or two when funds make themselves available.

When my AO-8 front wheel tacoed at 0 mph, the fork got bent in a strange way as well. Even though it measured as straight and parallel, the fork ends were definitely out about 1mm (which I originally thought was my lacing job on the replacement rim, but after many hours of checking I determined it was the fork). The Peugeot forks seem pretty malleable...I did finally manage to get them back to almost perfect though.

Mark