RadSkrimz

So I recently bought a Ralegh 502 Record on craigslist and I want to repaint the frame.
It's a steel frame with chrome moly.
From what I understand I could use a gel paint stripper, but I'm unsure how to protect the bottom bracket and, if possible, protect the badge.
I want this to be as DIY as possible, so I've ruled out taking it to a shop and getting it bead blasted.
Thanks in advance!

*EDIT* So I've decided not to strip it, and instead find a beater bike to practice on.

cudak888 

Paint looks fine. Find something with bad paint if you don't care about the original.

Are you going to remove the braze-ons or leave them intact?

-Kurt

RadSkrimz

I've been thinking about that too, though I haven't researched how to go about doing it if I decide to.

cudak888 

You want these guys: https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...eed-Fixed-Gear

We don't cotton to folks cutting things of their bikes around this here neck 'o the woods.

-Kurt

thenomad

That bike looks great as it is. Why give it a runny paint job that will chip off in a year?

the beauty of old steel bikes is their classic look and, dare I say, patina. You have a great color scheme already and I can see great lugwork.

If you want your bike to look better get rid of the big doofy saddle and don't point the tip of it down. Replace the brake lever with a proper bar end lever or a non-rusty aero lever and get some proper clip pedals.

jamesj

Don't kill it with a DIY paint job...
dont paint it at all.

leave it be...

RadSkrimz

Hey thanks for they input everyone. I'll look for a beater frame to practice on and just work on replacing some parts

jamesj

yeah look for something else that bike is to nice to kill...

treebound 

>>>>>ThreadJack<<<<<

Okay, while the OP is off trying to find a strip-worthy frame, what is the general concensus on a good way (as opposed to finding the "best" way) for removing paint?

I've got a Centurion Dave Scott Ironman which a previous owner has already repainted (he didn't like the pink/yellow color scheme for some reason 8-) ). It is in need of another repaint due to poor paint prep and adhesion issues and the corrosive properties of steel.

I've heard of people using a torch and wire brush to remove old paint while being carefull to not overheat or change the temper of the steel and any brazing. I am open to other ideas, I want to avoid sand or media blasting.

Thanks for any ideas.

sciencemonster

WHen you use a blowtorch to remove paint, there's a special head fitting you use that diffuses the heat. I've used one on wood before, and only very rarely burned the house down.

Mike Mills

Flame thrower - if you have a bunch of frames to strip, you can call in an air strike and use napalm - same material but a batch process. The up side of this process is it is insensitive to application process. The down side to this is you have to wait for the flames to die down. Oh yeah, it's rather smelly, too. The


Nukes - unfortunately this usually requires two nukes because you can only expose one side at a time to the bright white flash. The benefit here is you can do a really LARGE batch of frames all at once and the work is done in a microsecond. Make that two microseconds - one for each side. The down side is that if you are too far from the bomb, the paint will not be uniformly stripped around the perimeter of the round tube. If you are too close,... well,... you become part of the bomb. You may need a to test a few to get the distance just right, so you'd better buy a frame (or two) to experiment with.



:-)

thenomad

Just buy paint stripper in a can, spray, wait, scrape and sand.


To the OP.
Heck, you send me your frame and I'll send you my repainted Univega Vivatech. You can repaint it flourscent pink and hipsterize all the braze ons to your heart's content. Your frame even looks to be my size.

randyjawa 

I prefer to mechanically strip the paint off of a frame set. Using a drill motor and different rubber flapper wheels, or whatever they are called, I just wear the paint away. I can strip a complete frame and fork set in a couple of hours. Do not use the wheel close to detail such as lug work. For those spots I just use a soft screw driver blade (a small one) to chip and scrape away the paint. A final sanding with fine emery cloth and the task is complete. Primer immediately. And, as a safety precaution, were eye and respirator protection. Debris can fly off of the rotating wheel and suspended particulate will be easily breathed in so wear a dust mask. For more detail on how I go about removing paint, have a look at this article on paint removal...

https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...troduction.htm

Hope this is a help.

big chainring 

On a bike like the OPs I just paint over the existing paint. Give it a good sanding, wipe with a deglosser and break out the paint and brush.

thenomad

A good latex outdoor house paint perhaps?

roccobike

I don't know, I kinda like the original paint, so I left mine as is.

That's a great old bike you've got there. I like the way mine rides. BTW, Dupli Color makes an almost perfect match metallic burgandy.

big chainring 

Moores Gloss enamel - #1 with a bullet!

Doohickie

Get some "aircraft stripper" at an auto parts store for stripping. But I agree; that frame looks pretty good as is.

thenomad

All jokes aside, how is that enamel compared to spray can options like engine enamel and wheel paint?

randyjawa 

There is nothing wrong with a paint brush application when compared to other inexpensive do it yourself options. The paint brush technique is certainly cheaper than spray cans. It is certainly less messy. And, if you take your time, using even simple products, the results can be pretty good.

Each of these bikes were painted, by me, using inexpensive plastic based paint and with a paint brush. The surface is glossy. There is no paint over spray. There was no need to rub out the finish. And I did the work in my kitchen.

CambioRino2000aRtSideTQFullPlusDTDecal_LowRes_1.jpg

CarltonFlyerRestoredLugsTQRear.jpg

PX10_Done_Decal_ST_5.jpg

randyjawa 

Oops! One of the pictures in thread #20 is poor. Here is a better one...

CambioRino2000aRtSideTQFullPlusDTDecal.jpg

big chainring 

I've done several brush paint jobs. They turn out very well. I use a 3/4" flat art brush as well as a smaller art brush to get into tight spaces. The oil enamels flow out beautifully, no brushstrokes whatsoever. And the finish is very durable, havent had a scratch yet.

It would be really easy with a workstand. I paint mine by suspending the frame from a bungie cord attached to a ceiling joist. Takes about a 1/2 hour per coat. 2 coats does the job.



RANDYJAWA - do you use Acrylic enamels? I might try that. By the way I got the idea of brush painting from your MyTenSpeeds.com site. Thanks much.

thenomad

Interested.

Names of paints? Where to get them? Just the one you listed above?

cudak888 

The back of the headtube or the downtube shown here suggests that they could do with some microfinishing compound:



No offense intended.

-Kurt

big chainring 

I've only used the Benjamin Moore gloss enamel. Very easy to work with, and flows out beautifully.

Just sanded and painted over original paint on this Gitane.