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Thank you Kurt-
I actually did try the C-Clamp thing- using a 16mm socket on the other side- I'm having trouble finding a "pin" type thing to stand straight as I tighten the clamp. At this point I'm all about replacing all of that stuff down there. After breaking off the cotter (but prior to wrecking the pants leg protector thingy) I threw the chain on and rode it up and down the block a few times- and the chain got stuck between the chainrings again- this time, REALLY good. With the problems in extracting the cotter and the bent rings, and now with the damaged pants leg protector- That whole assembly is gone... once I can figure out how to make it all gone... What do I need to do to make the stuff from the World Sport work? |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 10510448)
... try a c-clamp and a 15 mm socket.
If you mi**** the cotter with the BFH you will regret it. BFH indeed. :D |
OK, now after trying unsuccessfully to use several "pin" type punches and the C clamp and socket- I went on to the #3 step on the Sheldon Brown site... Drill.
So I get my metal drill bit- and start drilling away. After a while I think my bit gave it up. So I tried another hole, then tried the pin punch & C clamp thing. Still won't stay up straight... At this point, I'm mad. I grab the screwdriver rod, vise grips and hammer and thwap the **** out of it like 5 times and the pin falls out. Finally. So the other side... I set the socket on there, put the C clamp on and start tightening... It takes a bit of doing and the pin just pops right out. For those of you playing along at home- do not use a hammer. Use a simple C clamp and a 15-16mm socket around the end of the pin that comes out. Now for my next magical trick... |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by buck mulligan
(Post 10514704)
I can tell you, I had a miserable time getting the cotters off of my '72 Sports. Tried the hammer thing; succeeded only in dinging up the chainguard and the BB lockring. The cotters bent and mushroomed, but did not budge. Then I tried the C-clamp method, and there was simply no way to get enough torque on the handle to do any good. I didn't want to drill them out, because that's a skill I've never learned. Finally, I just hoisted the whole frame (stripped except for the cranks) up onto my neighbor's workbench - which was a bit awkward, but manageable - and used a vice in lieu of the C-clamp. It took a little effort, but in relatively short order they popped out. In short, having just gone through the same process you're dealing with now, I will say that it wasn't especially easy but it was do-able.
Attachment 141904 It worked very well. The threaded part of the cotters got bent, so I couldn't reuse them, but no hammering needed. |
Originally Posted by gna
(Post 10534435)
I used one of these at the bike recycler a couple of weeks ago ... It worked very well.
But now I've moved on to new crises (let me tell you about my misbehaving SA AW hub, or about the spokes that are seized in their nipples, or about all the rust I found inside my wheel when I took the tire off to get at the orphaned nipple after I broke a spoke, or...). I was explaining to my son this morning about how overcoming all the little challenges that spring up when you take on a project like this feels so satisfying and rewarding; I said it convincingly enough that I think I may have almost convinced myself. |
Originally Posted by buck mulligan
(Post 10535162)
I was explaining to my son this morning about how overcoming all the little challenges that spring up when you take on a project like this feels so satisfying and rewarding; I said it convincingly enough that I think I may have almost convinced myself.
:D |
Originally Posted by mickey85
(Post 10504566)
I'm in love with the Suntour AR derailers - they're great pieces.
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Golly, where'd I leave off...
OK, I was able to spend a good chunk of time on this over the past few days. Right now it's pretty much running- just some adjustments. I went to a couple of stores and got new cotters. After getting the BB taken apart and pulling out all the bearings- they looked fine. The cups looked fine- so I packed them all up with grease, put that all together. I tightened everything up, made sure the spindel turned freely, put the cranks on, tightened the cotters, spun the cranks around- and the non-drive side crank was hitting the chainstay... I thought I put the spindle in backwards. Started taking it all apart and I couldn't pop the cotter out. I tussled with it for a bit again, it took some doing, but again, the C clamp and 16mm socket. Use the fixed end of the clamp on the cotter head, and the spinny end of the clamp on the socket end. Took it apart- switched the spindle around, then the inside chainwheel hits the chainstay... I had it right the first time, just needed to adjust it... Redid it again... took apart, cleaned up and greased up the wheels. After getting it all together, I noticed that when switching from the large to small chainwheel, the chain didn't seat on the gear teeth for several rotations. If it didn't seat, the chain would again slip between the two chainwheels. Yes, neither cog are completely straight- but I couldn't see that being the primary factor. After doing a bit of looking at other bikes- the distance between the cogs is much greater- I assume that 30 years ago, they used bigger chains or something in England... I got a couple of washers and replaced the spacers between the rings with washers- about 2/3 the distance... It works all right- it just seems to catch in one spot when the freewheel is in the outermost setting. I learned a bunch of stuff, did a lot of little problem solving- it still needs to be tweaked more- but I've ridden it a few miles and it seems to be doing well... I'll ask these in the Mechanics area as well, but... Since this was my first time doing bearings and grease- is it normal to have grease keep coming out? What would be causing the outer ring to catch on the chain in ONE spot when the rear is in the smallest gear? Also, how do I adjust the front derailleurs so that it doesn't overshift and either go to the BB shell or the crank side? It just gets goofy depending on where the chain in the back... |
"Pix or it didn't happen..."
I finally got pics- I should have done it while it was still light out- but... I've taken the bars, the non-original shifter, brakes and levers from the Suburban. Took the stem, stem shifters, alloy wheels, pedals, front and rear Suntour AR derailleurs from the World Sport. Also transplanted the front reflector and mounted the rear reflector to the rack from the World Sport. I used the cable sheathing from the Raleigh (since I guess that ribbed sheathing is hard to find) and I did replace the spoke reflectors with the awesome 70s yellow and red ones from the steel Raleigh wheels. The right stem shifter is non- functional- it's just there because... it's mounted to the mount, and I need the right one. When I find the correct left thumbshifter (for less than what I've seen them going for) I'll just ditch the stem shifters entirely. I rode it to the grocery store tonite- There's some bugs to work out of the shifting- the front chain rings are a little bent- it's most noticeable on the small ring and shifting between them- also the outer ring sort of 'catches' in one spot where the small ring is bent in and the rear is on the smallest (outermost) cog. I'd ideally like to replace the front rings and BB and cranks from the World Sport- If I can find someone to tap out the BB... Anyway... http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8003/23mar10001.jpg http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/4929/23mar10002.jpg http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4325/23mar10003.jpg http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/6676/23mar10004.jpg http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/5595/23mar10005.jpg http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6346/23mar10006.jpg http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/1672/23mar10007.jpg |
I don't know if you'd be interested, but I have a Raleigh Sprite 27 frame that I'm not going to build. I'm stealing the wheels for another bike. I don't know the condition of the chainrings, but they may be in better shape than the ones you have. You can have them if you pay the shipping.
Jim |
Jim,
Thank you for the offer- check your PMs! |
You don't need to do anything to that bike to make a good commuter out of it, except give it a god cleaning, and lubing. It's a great commuter bike AS-IS. That's exactly what the bike was designed for.
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Those are steel chain rings. I'd bet they clean up just fine, and have thousands of miles left in them.
Mt brother had one of these, and the bike was very ridable, and worked great. |
Originally Posted by bikerosity57
(Post 10580307)
Those are steel chain rings. I'd bet they clean up just fine, and have thousands of miles left in them.
Mt brother had one of these, and the bike was very ridable, and worked great. When steel bends, it stretches- so it's incredibly difficult to straighten them out to a good straight plane- because the metal has already stretched. Funny thing, when I tried doing it the first time, I got the little one "just about" straight, but I tried to get it even better- and I never got it that good again... *sigh* |
Here's my '75 Sprite 5 speed that I'll be rebuilding this year using some compatable parts from a '74 Grand Prix
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/...79d25ac8_o.jpg I sent you a PM. |
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