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Drilling out the frame today...Any reason not to? Mafac or Suntour?

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Drilling out the frame today...Any reason not to? Mafac or Suntour?

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Old 03-13-10, 01:04 PM
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Drilling out the frame today...Any reason not to? Mafac or Suntour?

I've got the Mafac Racer brakes...I don't like the setup issues. I don't like the flexy nature of the brake. They work okay.

I'm thinking of drilling it out and using a NOS pair of Suntour Cyclone calipers with after market cartridge pads. I know single pivot adjustment might be just as much a PIA...but I've got to do something...

Along with ditching the stock Mafac levers I'll upgrade to Tektro levers. Is there any reason not to drill a frame? It's really not that classic of a frame. Its a middle of the road japanese frame.

Would the Tektro Nutted Dual Pivot long reach be a better upgrade? I think the Cyclone will be pretty nice. They look every bit as good as the Superbe.
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Old 03-13-10, 01:42 PM
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Are you talking about drilling out the nut-side hole of brake bridge and fork crown for recessed nuts? I wouldn't have any issues with that, particularly on the frame you describe. If you or someone wants to go back to nutted, it's a simple matter of an insert. More drilling than that, and I'd have to have a clearer picture of what that might be.
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Old 03-14-10, 04:25 PM
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you need a reverse drill bit or a short regular bit and 90deg drill to do the brake bridge. you don't want to just drill through both sides. if the hole on the side toward the caliper is too big the brake can move up and down (more likely down) when applied. I would actually look for a donor brake to get a nutted pivot bolt from. you can use most any diacompe brake to do this.

what is your issue with sidepull brakes? once properly adjusted they are no more bother than any other brake type.
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Old 03-14-10, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
you need a reverse drill bit or a short regular bit and 90deg drill to do the brake bridge. you don't want to just drill through both sides. if the hole on the side toward the caliper is too big the brake can move up and down (more likely down) when applied.
BG - I drilled all the way through the rear bridge, but the bridge is round in cross-section, with no flats around the hole - that meant I used those bridge washers with one side flat and the other concave, sandwiching the bridge with one on either side. That should keep the post stable since the washer hole is the same size as the pre-drilled-out BB hole.

OP - make sure to put a little mineral or 3-in-1 oil on the drill bit as you start, and be prepared for a jam if you don't go nice and easy. Pay close attention to the angle of the drill as you go!

Cyclones are sweet, and significantly less of a PITA than the center-pull Racers IMOE.

Good luck!
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Old 03-14-10, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
you need a reverse drill bit or a short regular bit and 90deg drill to do the brake bridge. you don't want to just drill through both sides. if the hole on the side toward the caliper is too big the brake can move up and down (more likely down) when applied.
It's much easier to just drill all the way through, and then use an insert on the back to prevent the pivot from moving around.
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