Blightybiker

Thanks, Tom!

capnjonny 

I said I would post some pics of the 77 Raleigh Super Course. I picked this one up at the bike Exchange last Wed. It was a choice between this and a Schwinn Prologue. Had it mostly done by Saturday . I took it in to the shop to find a puller for the Atom Freewheel. We had one. I swapped in a Suntour New Winner 14-34 tooth Freewheel, Got a slightly longer axle and added a washer either side and was able to massage the rear dropouts enough to shoe horn it in. without really spreading them. It is mostly bone stock with the following exceptions

Super Chanpion 700 c wheels( weinman convex rims) Suntour cyclone front derailleur ( suntour VX) and Seat ( Brooks b 17 narrow).











I did my usual strip down and deep cleaning . Many of the parts had very little use on them . The Brakes looked new as did the Cranks and chain wheels. The paint had a little wear in places. I touched up the paint as good as I could then Sprayed it with Rustoleum clear Enamel. Not bad for a 42 year old bike!

conspiratemus1

Since this thread has become active again, I dug out the following for your amusement:



On tour. From a local weekly newspaper in Arnprior, Ontario, in 1974, just before I started med. school (and got a haircut.) The Super Course, complete with Stronglight cotterless crankset, was stolen from my landlady's garage the following winter. It was only 2 years old, about par for the course in those days.

Senrab62 

Excuse the slip n slide and weeds. This is as I picked it up recently. 1976 MK II w/huret dropouts, SL 93 (I think) crankset, jubilee rear with more modern 105 front mechs. Replacement rear wheel and freewheel. Needs a bit to get road worthy but got it for a decent deal IMHO.

Have many ideas for where it might go, but nothing in stone. This thread is full of ideas and inspiration!

rgvg

Brought my new friend home today. These are the seller's pics. It's a single speed right now so I'll have to work on that. I believe it is a 72. I'll take some pictures in the future after I've adjusted it to my liking. Could take a while so I'll just go with these photos for now.

noglider 

@rgvg, congratulations. I've had loads of fun with mine. It's a great frame that came with crappy components, so there is no guilt in modifying it heavily and repeatedly. Mine is a 1971. Yours is either a 1971 or 1972.

rgvg

Side view of my bike when I got it. I think the front tire might still be the original.

My immediate plans were to add a triple up front and a 5 speed freewheel in the back. I tried to get the cranks off with a cheap c clamp and socket, but the only thing that happened was the handle on the clamp bent.

So after spritzing it with liquid wrench and trying again over a couple of days, I threw in the towel and took it to a bike mechanic. He got it off and installed a cartridge bb for me. So now it has a triple up front. Currently a mountain bike triple. I like mountain cranks on my road bikes and road cranks on my mountain bikes.

I found a 14-32 shimano freewheel at the coop, and while I was there they took off the single speed freewheel for me as I did not have the tool for it. I also found a mountech front derailleur which I believe has a cable stop so it should work. I also have a long cage suntour vx with a claw that I got from the coop a while back.

Sadly, I could not find a clamp on downtube shifter. Plenty of stem shifters but I don't really want to use one of those. Apparently clamp on downtube shifters are relatively scarce around here. I've only found three in the past couple of years. I've used two, and I can't find the third one. There's a guy selling new shimano or sunrace ones on craigslist, but they look a bit like plastic. But I guess if I want to be able to use more than one gear, I'll have to pony up the $20 CAD he wants.

I think I recall seeing a pair of sand canyon tires over at one shop a few months ago. I'll have to drop by and see if I wasn't mistaken. Otherwise I'll try to get paselas.

bertinjim 

May well be original due to the Raleigh branding. My green Super Course of that vintage had 27 x 1 1/4 Clement cotton tires and they were unbelievable in terms of the excellence of the ride. Nice big Clement red script logo as well.

rgvg

Say, does anyone know what size screws to use for the front and rear fenders for a '72? I tried m5 in the rear but it seems a bit loose. m6 is too big. These wouldn't happen to be non metric sizes, would they? Also the front ones on the fork look smaller than the ones on the rear dropouts, and might be unthreaded though my eyes are a bit bad. I need to put fenders on if I want to ride on wet roads.

Thanks

elcraft

They seem to be a Whitworth/ non SAE threading on those eyelet bolts. I pirated fender bolts from an old decrepit Nottingham clone bike to secure my rack/fenders.

elcraft

Get to a local Co-op and find the Delrin Simplex down tube shifters ( or stem mounted version) and pirate the nonessential adjusting ferrule found on them. These fit perfectly into the Carlton cable stop bridge[img]webkit-fake-url://5b782674-bd14-4664-8118-1ee7b4f99e7a/imagejpeg[/img]

Pcampeau

Thanks, I will.

bwilli88 

Go to your local hardware shop and buy a M6 tap and tap both and then use M6 bolts.

bwilli88 

Go to your local hardware shop and buy a M6 tap and tap both and then use M6 bolts.

jreeves 

My 1985 Super Course

Real1shepherd

Kick stands bad JuJu for better bike frames. The better/thinner the metal frame, the more likely they are to warp something down under. Cool looking bike though.....!

Kevin

BFisher 

This just in...

Otto is excited. The suspense is killing him!



Ahhh, Capella! So, '73?



Simplex with no cracks?! A first for me.


B17 Narrow is in decent shape, too.

BFisher 

Assembled:




Brampton Bottom Bracket

I'll get better pics up when I can. Can't wait to get this thing cleaned up.

Pcampeau

Otto clearly likes it and so do I. Nice Super course!

BFisher 

Thanks! This is a club I've wanted to join for some time.

Pcampeau

Welcome to the club. Any idea yet what sort of build you’ll be doing? Restomod? All original? The bike looks like it’s good enough to ride right out of the box (after new grease for all the bearings). Paint and chrome look excellent and the saddle looks really nice.

BFisher 

I plan on putting fresh tires on, cotton tape, maybe new cables and housing, fresh brake shoes. I think that's it, really. Other than some scratches and chips, a bit of surface rust, the bike is in great shape. The stem may be a tad long, but we'll see on that.

Cottered cranks will stay. The Simplex stuff is miraculously in good shape, and I've never used it before. And yes, the saddle is in very nice shape for its age.

bulgie 

OK, your call, but that tape on there now is original. Unwrap it carefully and conserve it for the bike's next owner. Unless you plan on being buried with it? Not that there's anything wrong with that!

Maybe sell the tape here or on the 'bay! If you want to give it away, let me say I have a one-owner bronze green '71 that currently has upright bars, but I am considering restoring it to the catalog spec, for sentimental reasons. I have all the other parts I need, such as the Weinmann A210 rims, GB bars & stem, Raleigh quill pedals, Carlton brake lever hoods, the Huret Luxe ST and the extra-long Huret downtube shift levers.

Do you know about the Kool Stop pads that are a near-exact reproduction of the original Weinmanns? I think it's so "kool" that they do that. They deserve our support for making such a niche product for us C&V weirdos. They make several other retro/repro styles too, including Mafac.

rgvg

Brake pads on mine are jagwire replacements, it has no metal holders. Without those, but if I wanted kool stops, which of their products would work?

bulgie 

I don't know the answer, so I'll answer a different question, that you didn't ask!

I have a tendency to think everyone thinks like me. In this case, I think everyone must want the pads that look like the originals. If you don't care about that, stop reading now, and go buy modern-looking pads.

If your bike came with Weinmann 4-dot pads and you want holders that will take the Kool Stop version that looks almost exactly right, maybe I can help. I have lots of those, surplus to my needs, so I'll sell them for $10 (including shipping) for a set of 4, used and kinda ugly but functional.

You take the old original pads out, and replace them with Kool Stop repros that you purchase wherever better brake pads are sold. The ones you want are model KS-W4SA. They also come in black, but those are dumb because originals are brick colored, close to the KS "Salmon" color, and the Salmons stop better, says everyone. (Not sure if I have noticed the difference myself, but if everyone says so, it must be true.)

Important note: This assumes you have the mechanical skillz to replace brake pads, and remount the holders in your brakes, and do so safely. If you're not sure if you're up to it, take your bike to a good bike shop to have it done. There's no shame in that!

The ones I'm selling are like the middle one in this photo:

(1) The one on the Left is the oldest kind, with no special effort made to keep the pad in if you put it on the bike backward. One end is closed, one end open, so if you put them on with the open end facing forward, the pads will be ejected when you apply the brake, and you'll die. This has actually happened! (but not to me... so far... knock on wood.) Those are not for sale, because they're the kind I like and I don't have scads of them.

(2) The middle one has a lame attempt to keep the pads in if mounted backward. See those sort of ramps where the aluminum of the holder is pushed down into the rubber? (Well, you can only see one of them in this photo, but there's a second one hidden by the nut.) This rampy-thing doesn't work for its intended purpose (not reliably anyway) -- the pad may still self-eject if mounted backward -- so don't do that. Take care to put them on the bike with the closed end facing forward. These are the ones I'm selling.

(3) The ones on the Right are the later style, idiot-proof because both ends of the holder are closed. I can sell those too, same price, but you probably don't want them, because they are the hardest to put Kool Stop rubbers into. Not impossible, but a lot more work.

Here's a picture of the actual pads/holders I'm selling:

Note they're in various states of youth and beauty, from sort of old and ugly to very old and ugly. Once you get the Kool Stop pads in though, they'll probably work fine. Please don't sue me if you die, I'm poor and not worth suing. These are 40-ish-year-old bike parts that were medium-quality at best when new, and now they're used, with an unknown service history.

No guarantee, they're sold "as-is", except you can have your money back if you don't like them for any reason. You just pay the return shipping.

I don't know how many sets like this I have to sell, but it's a few. So this offer is for anyone, not just @rgvg to whom I'm replying.

-Mark