If you are over 160lbs don't bother riding a c/v racing/road bike!
03-22-10, 04:41 PM
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If you are over 160lbs don't bother riding a c/v racing/road bike!
That can't be right ?! Oh and never use the small front/back gear combo or the 2 large ones either? Why in heavens name?
03-22-10, 04:46 PM
#2
Dropped
Not sure where you go the first, but the second piece of advice is sound if you don't want to damage your bike or yourself.
03-22-10, 04:48 PM
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Well, I have no idea where you're getting this weight limit deal, so how can I respond?
As far as the gear combos, going small-small or big-big creates cross chaining that puts the chain at a bad angle. The drivetrain is likely to rub somewhere. Even if it doesn't, it can cause unnecessary wear to the chain.
As far as the gear combos, going small-small or big-big creates cross chaining that puts the chain at a bad angle. The drivetrain is likely to rub somewhere. Even if it doesn't, it can cause unnecessary wear to the chain.
03-22-10, 04:52 PM
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On standard doubles, cross-chaining isn't reall an issue on a properly set up bike. It might cause some slightly accelerated wear, but it isn't dangerous or really that big a deal.
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03-22-10, 04:55 PM
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Older bikes (usually steel) are no where near as stiff as a modern bike/frame, so if you are larger weight or height, your c&v bike/frame may feel unusually whippy or noodly, something which is only really a concern if you are racing.
03-22-10, 04:59 PM
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Seems like I read that somewhere before in regards to weight. I also recall that the somewhat flimsy Viscount Aerospace line was geared to younger riders; and I think some of the frame and component failures over the years were a result of riders who were too heavy for a so lightly made bicycle.
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03-22-10, 05:01 PM
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In terms of classic and vintage bikes, the weight limit could be to some of the lightweight bikes back in the day. The C&V "Racer" bikes use can use tubing not designed for anything but a racer, the average Joe maybe too heavy, as well depending on the tubing it might be killer thin and thirty years old.. be careful. Old Vitus frames come to mind. The cross chaining can wear/wreck the surfaces needlessly as it'll rub. Why needless scratch an old car? Same concept.
03-22-10, 05:05 PM
#10
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I've ridden all kinds of bikes and have never experienced a bike that was whippy or noodly. I'm 200 lbs and ride old vintage bikes. I dont know if I could identify a whippy frame. I'm just not that strong to get the frame to flex. Wheels are the biggest factor in how a bike performs in my opinion.
03-22-10, 05:06 PM
#11
Dropped
That's the key piece of information. If the chain is too short, big/big combo can explode your rear derailleur and send it into your rear spokes (don't ask me how I know this). Also, on a triple setup with wide range front and rear gearing the chain could drop on the small/small combo, causing any number of unwanted circumstances.
Last edited by JunkYardBike; 03-22-10 at 05:11 PM.
03-22-10, 05:08 PM
#12
Dropped
I've ridden all kinds of bikes and have never experienced a bike that was whippy or noodly. I'm 200 lbs and ride old vintage bikes. I dont know if I could identify a whippy frame. I'm just not that strong to get the frame to flex. Wheels are the biggest factor in how a bike performs in my opinion.
03-22-10, 05:17 PM
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im 200lbs-210lbs and i have almost no flex in my slx or tange framed bikes. sometimes on steep hills when i have to stand there is a little FD rub. The wheels are my number one concern not the frame.
03-22-10, 05:18 PM
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That's the key piece of information. If the chain is too short, big/big combo can explode your rear derailleur and send it into your rear spokes (don't ask me how I know this). Also, on a triple setup with wide range front and rear gearing the chain could drop on the small/small combo, causing any number of unwanted circumstances.
B) That's why I specifically started my statement with "On standard doubles"
Also, on my triples I set them up specifically so that, in case I make the error of cross-chaining, they do nothing more egregious than make some rubbing noise. But I try not to do it, anyway.
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03-22-10, 05:19 PM
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All you really have to do is stand up while climbing a hill. There are plenty of bikes that will flex quite noticeably in that situation, causing FD rub and even ghost shifting (usually on frames with chainstays longer than 41cm). Of course, this can be accomplished with a stiff aluminum frame with oversized tubes, too (at least the chainrub bit - never been able to make an aluminum frame ghost shift).
03-22-10, 05:23 PM
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There's an old Spec sheet from Reynolds somewhere online that says 531 Professional tubing is recommended for a 150 lb. person. It doesn't really give an explanation. My 54cm Peugeot 531P frame carries my lard ass 190 lbs. around ok. So far.
03-22-10, 05:27 PM
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I have yet to break a frame. I have snapped two cranks, one seatpost, and a set of bars at various times.
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03-22-10, 05:29 PM
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If Aluminum or Carbon Fiber frame makers were to release similar specs, only children under 12 would be able to ride them...
03-22-10, 05:43 PM
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All you really have to do is stand up while climbing a hill. There are plenty of bikes that will flex quite noticeably in that situation, causing FD rub and even ghost shifting (usually on frames with chainstays longer than 41cm). Of course, this can be accomplished with a stiff aluminum frame with oversized tubes, too (at least the chainrub bit - never been able to make an aluminum frame ghost shift).
I'm just a flatland weakling.
03-22-10, 05:48 PM
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I read somewhere that 531c tubesets have a 70kg weight limit but my Gazelle carries my 77kg (171lbs) over the NorCal pave just fine.
03-22-10, 06:17 PM
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Not as if many of you venture into the 250-60lb weight range, but I've certainly felt flex and noodly frames from time to time on larger framed thin walled tube bicycles. I prefer smaller, compact frames for that reason alone. Not sure that the current build, a early 90's Rossi made out of Columbus Aelle tubing is going to be stiff enough to feel comfortable on after it gets put through the ringer in a few weeks time. It's only a 58.5 cm, but compared to my other Columbus Cromor framed bicycle, the tubing seems magnitudes thinner tapping on it along it's lengths. 
03-22-10, 08:51 PM
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You're absoutely correct. Send all those lightweight thin tubing bikes to me (in 56cm) and I'll make sure only a lightweight guy rides them just for safety's sake.
03-22-10, 10:25 PM
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I've ridden all kinds of bikes and have never experienced a bike that was whippy or noodly. I'm 200 lbs and ride old vintage bikes. I dont know if I could identify a whippy frame. I'm just not that strong to get the frame to flex. Wheels are the biggest factor in how a bike performs in my opinion.
03-22-10, 10:43 PM
#24
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That's the key piece of information. If the chain is too short, big/big combo can explode your rear derailleur and send it into your rear spokes (don't ask me how I know this). Also, on a triple setup with wide range front and rear gearing the chain could drop on the small/small combo, causing any number of unwanted circumstances.
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03-22-10, 10:48 PM
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I dunno. the "newest" bike I ride is an '88 redline MTB (cromoly) and it's handled me (~200 lb.) and 40 lbs. of groceries with no problem. My other "road" bike, a Fuji S-10S from '77, has tackled basically the same weight, but in books not food. The only stress I felt was in my chest :O