vw02

So i've read for old threads for a while on oxalic acid and how it removes rust. The thing is, I dont have a rusty frame, only a few small parts. Like top of the fork, headset, and dropouts. Is there a way to remove that rust and get that nice shiny chrome look again w/o soaking it? Is there something that will do the trick just by rubbing on and then waxing after? I've read about the aluminum foil method, but i dont want to scratch that nice finish underneath. I've thought about hanging the bike to soak the dropouts in oxalic acid, which would be simple. But for hanging the front, id be afraid of some leaking inside the frame and then deteriorating the frame from the inside. I don't want to take out the BB and headset and then wash out and seal the inside of the frame just for these small parts......

Can anyone give me a good step by step for these small areas? Sorry for a question that has been beaten to death, but i looked and looked for hours and couldn't get a good solid answer. Also, the wood bleach thats oxalic acid from the harware store, is that already diluted? if not, whats your guys ratio for OA : water?





Thanks!

Dan Burkhart 

This is the stuff I use for that.
https://www.nevrdull.com/
It's available everywhere, and a little goes a long way.
Here is some chrome off an old Schwinn that I cleaned with it. If you look closely at the crank, you can see one side is not done yet, so it gives you a good before and after.

vw02

I read a little about that stuff in some of the other threads, im assuming you just rub the rusted area w/ that stuff w/ a cloth? Do you need to neutralize it in any way afterwords w/ a wax or something like that?

Thanks for the quick reply! Trying to rebuild my dads old bike from the 70's.

Grand Bois

Is that a Garlati?

Dan Burkhart 

It takes a bit of elbow grease, but you will see it start to disolve the rust right away. Just keep rubbing till you see the rust dissapear and the shine come through. Wait for the solvent to dry to a white haze and buff it off.
Edit: just read your post again. No applicator is needed. The stuff in the can is permeated cotton wadding.You just tear off a piece (not too big) and apply.

wrk101

I commonly use a small bath of oxalic on misc parts and forks. I've done a couple dozen forks that way. Much easier than a full sized OA bath.

vw02

It's a Frejus frame w/ all campagnolo components and dropouts. Dad says it has "falt" tubing, guess it was the old name for double butted? I'm making it a simple 5-speed for cruisin around.

Thanks again for the info!

vjp

He means "FALCK" tubing which is a brand name.

vjp

robatsu

+1. I just picked up a barn-fresh Fuji Touring Series V today. Pretty good condition, but a good dose of surface rust that warrants stripping all the parts from the frame and a oxalic acid soak. This evening, while I was dissassembling, I had a bucket next to me, every time I came to a clip or something that looked like it could use a soak, I tossed it in the bucket. When I was done, I filled the bucket w/oxalic solution, and then stuck the fork in upside down because the crown was a little rusty.

Here is the way the crown looked:





Headset is in the soak right now as well. I think I caught this one just in the nick of time - I'll post some pics tomorrow after the fork is done, guarantee you won't believe it isn't from the same bike.

Oxalic acid is my first choice whereever possible. Cheap, not much labor, non-abrasive. Me, I can't stand the smell of it, so I put it outside. Just gotta make sure you don't put alloy or galvanized stuff in there.

vw02

so bought some nevr-dull....seems too work ok on very light surface rust but thats it. i've been scrubbing for hours at some parts w/ minimal results. i don't really want to turn to hours of wetsanding....any tips to getting some of the deeper rust off?

i think i may go w/ the oxalic acid solution. seems to be much easier and less labor intensive. i've spent 5 hours so far scrubbing w/ the nevrdull. so i've read that you buy it as wood bleach? does it need any diluting? if so, what's the ratio.

thanks for the help!

buck mulligan

I just did a bunch of chrome parts on my Raleigh, and I had no problem with aluminum foil scratching the chrome. Most people will tell you to use a mild acid such as lemon juice or white vinegar with the foil, but I only used light machine oil for lubrication only and got great results. By way of comparison, I used some 0000 steel wool on a couple of parts, and definitely noticed some light scratching - the aluminum is a lot softer than either steel wool or chrome plating on steel parts, and in my experience resulted in no scratching at all.

vw02

ill try the aluminum foil method tomorrow
if that doesn't work, ill just paint over the chrome pieces on the frame....getting the chrome back on the frame isn't that important. same goes for the dropouts. my headset pieces turned out alright, and i can always use oxalic acid on the fork.

so i have another question....im painting the frame black which easy to make look ok. ive painted a couple bikes in the past and had pretty good results. read a bunch of old threads on it. though i think i could get a little more durability w/ a different paint. in the past ive just used rustoleum cheap stuff. for primer/paint/clear coat

anyone have better luck w/ a different kind of primer/paint/clearcoat? ill be doing all three. im not looking to spend $25 a can on clearcoat like suggested in another thread.

Thanks again for all the info!