rf9

I've got an unknown columbus slx frame from around late 80s early 90s. I'm planning to build it up and need some advice on what parts to use. I've got a limited budget so unfortunately it's going to be a bit of a mix rather than a full campag affair. I'm fairly confident I can build up something pretty nice though.

My main question is about the choice of rear wheel/drive. I've got a shimano 600 6207 crankset and derailleurs. I also bought a set of wheels but didn't think things through fully. They are FIR squadra? with campag mirage hubs, 8 speed I think. The frame is 126mm rear spacing, wheels are 130mm. I've read up on Sheldon's site so I think this combination could work. Choice of cassette/block has been a cause of lots of confusion here.

My other option is a different set of wheels, MA2s with 126mm hub and 6 speed sachs block, so these would be an ideal fit. Would the sachs block work ok with my shimano 600?

Ideally I would use the FIR wheels as I really like the rims but I think this option is likely to present the most problems.

Any advice very much appreciated, this is my first build of this kind but have a bit of know how.

Thanks

Thought I'd just add in the link to the frame

Bianchigirll 

Hi rf9, you mention 600, 6207 cranks and deraileurs but not what kind of shifters? cranks and derailleurs are somewhat brainless and with friction shift your dreailleurs will work with either wheels. if you are usung 6 or 7 spd DT shifters the wheels with the sachs FW would work best. if you are going to use some kind of brifeter the Campi wheels will likely work better but you may need a shiftmate thingie

Zaphod Beeblebrox 

you could use the 130mm spaced wheelset in your frame unchanged if you just spring the rear dropouts out a little bit. Its the difference between 126mm and 130mm, so only 2mm per side...not much and as long as you don't cold-set it your frame will pop right back to 126mm when you pull the wheel out.

If you don't want to fudge the frame spacing you could:
use the 126mm spaced rear wheel (easy)
remove a couple of spacers from the 8 speed rear wheel on both sides and see if the smal cog rubs your chainstay (not very hard, but it probably will rub)
attempt a freehub body swap with a 7 speed freehub body on the 8 speed wheel (more difficult)


and if you dedcide to go with the 126mm wheelset you can usually make it 7 speed pretty easily simply by putting on a new 7 speed cassette. They are both designed for 126mm spacing. (OK, that last part is tru for Shimano...I'm assuming its the same for Sachs, but it might be worthwhile to check on that.


Bianchigirrl is right...if you're not planning to use friction shifting your choice of cassette is gonna be affected by what Index Shifters you are gonna use.

wrk101

I would go the 130 route. 2mm per side is nothing, and it gives you access to modern drivetrain components. Even on a limited budget, over time, you will have the option to upgrade further. So initially you could go with seven speed on the eight speed wheel, by using a spacer. Your favorite dealer can supply them (mine gave me one for free).

rf9

Thanks for all the replies, it's great to get info from people who know their stuff, much appreciated. I think I'll go with friction shifting at this stage as it's probably the easiest option. The frame came with some shifters, suntour possibly, I need to check.

I don't actually own the 126mm Shimano wheels so I think I'll stick with the FIR campag rather than buying another set. So I'm thinking a 7 speed + spacer setup with down tube friction shifters. How does this sound? Would the rear derailleur be ok with 7 speed as I think it is originally designed for 6?

I not planning to cold set the frame, there wouldn't be any need for redishing the wheel would there?

For the cassette/block I'm guessing I'd need an 8 speed campag compatible? I think miche do one.

Sorry for all the questions, thanks again.

mickey85

Typically, a rear derailer would be OK with another gear (unless you're talking about the 5 speed Simplex derailers - those seem to be rather difficult to accept another gear). You could go with the 7 speed and a spacer, but if you're going friction, you might as well just keep the 8 speed cassette and call it good.

And if you're going from 126 to 130, you don't need to cold set the frame. Just pull apart the rear triangle enough to slide the wheel into the dropouts. If you had planned on cold setting the frame, you don't need to redish. If it's centered at 126 mm, you'll be centered at 130 as well.

Also, if it is suntour or Shimano downtube shifters, you should check to see if they're convertible - if they can go from indexing to friction, you could try either one and pick your preference. I've got a set of Suntour Radius downtube shifters with a square braze-on fitting that I had bought to go on a bike (not realizing they were square instead of rectangular) that accept 6 and 7 speed indexing, as well as friction shifting.

EjustE

I would suggest that you keep the 8 speed as is, and get an index 8sp RD (like 600 tricolor -640x) and a pair of 8 or 9 sp STIs. You will enjoy the bike more, than running the friction only 6207

rf9

Giving it some thought I think the indexed route would be preferable. That brings me back to my initial confusion though. As I understand a Campag block wouldn't work well with an indexed shimano RD as the cogs use different spacing.

So I would need to get campag compatible RD and shifters? I looked into a freehub body swap a while back but it was going to cost more than I paid for the wheels.

It all got a bit confusing so I decided to go with friction shifting.

rf9

I've just discovered the 'retro roadies with STI's or Ergos' thread. It's not something I had really considered before, I think there could be some helpful info in there.