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Worst bicycle mechanic ever...

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Worst bicycle mechanic ever...

Old 04-28-10, 08:31 PM
  #1  
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Worst bicycle mechanic ever...

That would be me. Some of you may have seen my thread this morning about how I ripped some of the threads right out of one of my cranks. Well, this evening while trying to take the fixed cup off of my bb, I managed to strip the the threads!

Maybe I'm a little rusty. I didn't work on bikes much over the winter. Either way, I suck.

Any suggestions on what I should do about the bb? I searched the mechanics forum and most people suggest just getting a threadless bottom bracket. I did see someone suggest blue loctite and others suggest various re-threading methods.
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Old 04-28-10, 08:40 PM
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what kind of bike/frame? try finding a competent shop that can check out and maybe chase the threads.
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Old 04-28-10, 09:07 PM
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How did you strip the BB? Other than cross threading on insertion, I'm drawing a blank on how it could happen.

I've been lucky that my lapses of diligence haven't resulted in permanent damage. I've done both the not thread the puller all the way in and forget to remove the crank bolt
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Old 04-28-10, 09:07 PM
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You have several options. Bianchigirl's suggestion to have the threads chased by your LBS is a good place to start. Failing that, if your frame is English thread, you can have your LBS ream out the old threads and cut new threads to Italian standard. Bicycle Research used to make a tool specifically for this purpose, but a size "K" adjustable reamer will also work for this. And your own suggestion of a threadless bottom bracket cartridge is always available.
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Old 04-28-10, 09:14 PM
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I have to agree with the mechanics forum guys - your best bet is THIS.
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Old 04-28-10, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by tugrul View Post
How did you strip the BB? Other than cross threading on insertion, I'm drawing a blank on how it could happen.

I've been lucky that my lapses of diligence haven't resulted in permanent damage. I've done both the not thread the puller all the way in and forget to remove the crank bolt
Well, you see, I didn't realize the fixed cup is left-hand threaded, so I turned it the wrong way a few times at first before I unscrewed it the right direction.

I might take it to my bike shop and let them take a look. I'm thinking a threadless bb is a good option though. The VO one looks nice, but it's more expensive than this.
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Old 04-28-10, 10:03 PM
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I'm a mechanic on cars and have been one for many years (too many). Anyway, you learn by doing jobs and mistakes are part of the learning process. No worries. You must have had some leverage to strip those threads like that.
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Old 04-28-10, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Shp4man View Post
Anyway, you learn by doing jobs and mistakes are part of the learning process. No worries. You must have had some leverage to strip those threads like that.
No kidding! That sounds hard to do.
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Old 04-28-10, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
what kind of bike/frame? try finding a competent shop that can check out and maybe chase the threads.
The bike is a Raleigh technium.

Haha yeah I had the cup in a bench vise and used the whole bike as leverage.
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Old 04-28-10, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by flammenwurfer View Post
The bike is a Raleigh technium.
Technium. Bonded aluminum w/steel. Is the BB aluminum, or a steel section?

-Kurt
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Old 04-28-10, 10:39 PM
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I have no idea. I'll check with a magnet in the morning.

Does that possibly change my options?
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Old 04-28-10, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by flammenwurfer View Post
The bike is a Raleigh technium.

Haha yeah I had the cup in a bench vise and used the whole bike as leverage.
Even still, man, that's pretty impressive, especially if the bb is steel.
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Old 04-29-10, 04:22 AM
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Though I might tend to agree with your worst mechanic evaluation, part of the time, the problem might well have been started long before you got the bicycle.

I worked on a 1976 Holdsworth Mistral once that had never seen the bottom bracket removed since purchased new. When did I work on that bike? About a year ago. Anyway...

The bottom bracket came out hard. I discovered that the BB drive side cup had been cross threaded right from the factory or shop, what ever one called the place where Holdsworth bicycles were built. So...

When you attempted to remove your BB, it would have been difficult to tell which way to turn the cup. Also, the initial cross threading might have weakened the threads enough to allow you to complete the job when you overtightened.

Just a thought but do not think everything left any builder's bicycle factory "just so". Not a chance. Even the masters had bad days. At least, that is what I have come to believe, after seeing some of the poor fabricated bicycles touted as "top of the line".
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Old 04-29-10, 05:51 AM
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I can attest to some bikes not leaving the factory in perfect condition. I found a gorgeous 1983 Schwinn Le Tour a couple of years ago. I figured the BB would
need relubing, so I tore it down. There was no evidence that it EVER had grease in it, since new!! It couldn't be more devoid of grease if you had sprayed
carb cleaner through the spindle gap. The bike had really never been ridden either, as the bearings and races were spotless. No wear at all, and bright shiny
silver.,,,,BD
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Old 04-29-10, 06:00 AM
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Well, you guys are making me feel a little better . I think it was probably me who bunged it up, but I might as well blame it on the factory if nobody is going to argue with me, haha.
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Old 04-29-10, 03:01 PM
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That YST bottom bracket seems worth a try. Rethreading to Italian would work but is a lot of extra trouble.
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Old 04-29-10, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Technium. Bonded aluminum w/steel. Is the BB aluminum, or a steel section?

-Kurt
I thought the center triangle on Techniiums were aluminum, with the stays and fork being steel. Could be wrong though.
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Old 04-29-10, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by flammenwurfer View Post

Haha yeah I had the cup in a bench vise and used the whole bike as leverage.

Don't go too hard on yourself, thats a well tested method (at least for basement mechanics) for removing the fixed cup.
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Old 04-29-10, 05:15 PM
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Yes, Techniums have steel BB shells.
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Old 04-29-10, 06:13 PM
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I don't know how messed up the threads are, haven't had the heart to unscrew the cup again yet. I think I am going to just give the threadless bottom bracket a try. I have a couple other things to order for my other 3 speeds so I'll just throw one of those in there.

Question about sizing on them though. How do I measure the spindle length I need? Or does anybody know off hand what the recommended spindle length is for a Technium 480?
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Old 04-30-10, 01:44 PM
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Spindle length is determined by type of BB shell (ie. English, French, Italian, Swiss), and more importantly, the model of crank you're using.
English BB's differ from Italian by 2mm. Most manufacturers of cranksets would have already factored in that difference.
If you're running a Shimano 105 or 600 crank from that Technium's era, it'll likely need a 113mm spindle.
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Old 04-30-10, 01:51 PM
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It remains to be asked, why does anyone need to remove a fixed cup?
I've ridden brit bicycles since 1970 and have not had to remove the first one.
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Old 04-30-10, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
The bottom bracket came out hard. I discovered that the BB drive side cup had been cross threaded right from the factory or shop

Yup, I found out that my Trek had been done the same way from the factory when changing the cranks over to some Tiagras. Thankfully there was enough meat left to chase the threads and put the new BB in with no problems.
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Old 04-30-10, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by David Newton View Post
It remains to be asked, why does anyone need to remove a fixed cup?
I've ridden brit bicycles since 1970 and have not had to remove the first one.
I got a chainguard that is held on by the fixed cup, therefore requiring its removal. Otherwise I never would have attempted.

I measured my existing spindle and it is 122mm. I'm assuming you don't include the threaded part that you screw the nuts onto in that measurement.
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Old 04-30-10, 02:23 PM
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that is correct.
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