Check this out! sanding and buffing coolness!
Props to khatful for sending me directions!
So i didnt like the stem that i had on the fuji im working on so i had this old nitto stem sitting around. Decided i wanted to take a turn at sanding and buffing. All the paper i had was 220, 320, 600, and 1000. then the mothers! I had problems trackng down even the 600 and 1000. Finally found it at the autozone. I had to really get some scratches that were on the top of the stem out and then buff them all out with the 600 and 1000. If i had to do it over again i would use 800 and 1000 and 1500... take a look at the before and after. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/...97334aba_b.jpg http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3620/...4c6b0127_b.jpg |
Wow, that is nice.
How long did it take you? |
Yeah, I was surprised at how difficult it can be to find very fine grades of sandpaper. I probably tried 4 or 5 different stores before finding some at a True Value store. Nice job.
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Nice work! I love taking that dull to polish.
MKeller - I usually hit up the auto parts store for the 1500 grit stuff. |
Nice! That looks better than new, hehe. If you want to get that classic Nitto pearly silver, use some #0000 steel wool. I would leave it
exactly like you did it though. Gorgeous!!,,,,BD |
Nice polish job!
I am glad you weren't naked when you took the photos. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3620/...4c6b0127_b.jpg |
Wow amazing, good job! How about the rest of the components? =D
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Really! Good positioning of the bolt hole!
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ha ha ha it took about a hour to finish, im thinking about going and getting the 1000 and 1500 and doing the areas that i don't like as much.
it looks good in the sun but i think it could be better. i'm also glad i wasn't naked either. and i didn't even notice where i placed the bolt hole.... ha ha ha i was to excited to really notice. |
Nice work!
Can you post the directions or does Khatfull not want his secret to get out? |
im sure he doesnt mind...
but here you go. Hi James...you just need a few supplies: Wet/dry sandpaper in several grits, I'd get 400,600,1000,1500 Some fine (000 or 0000) steel wool Some Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish Rags Starting with the 400 grit wet/dry, sand the stem wet until you remove all traces of existing scratches. Switch to the 600, do the same...1000 then 1500. Then take your steel wool and rub it all over nicely, it should smooth out well. Now, if you want a more satin finish, stop with the 0000 steel wool. If you want shiny go at it with the Mothers...little on the rag, rub like hell, buff off, repeat. The more you polish the shinier it will get. -Keith |
Very cool, thank you.
If you stop at the 0000 steel wool should you be rubbing on some kind of protectant? I know mothers is not only polishing the metal but also leaving behind a thin protectant that will prevent oxidation. |
I use one of these to speed up the process. It's especially helpful when working with deeply scratched parts.
http://inlinethumb02.webshots.com/47...600x600Q85.jpg |
Did you use your hands or power tools?
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you could apply wax after the xtra-fine steel wool, but I find that wax changes the look, it's no longer as 'satin' after waxing. But if you don't apply something it will corrode easily since there's no (thick) anodizing to protect it. I've had good results using a low-gloss version of a product called Everbrite, which is some mysterious snakeoily stuff you have to buy from a private seller (sort of like Amway, Amsoil,etc.) and it appears to be a nylon resin liquid clearcoat you can apply with a sponge, rag, brush or spray (and you HAVE to wear gloves and a respirator with this stuff). I've had it come out almost as nice as a pearl-anodized finish (sometimes), but YRMV. I should do it again and take pics this time.:)
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Mother's polish is some amazing stuff... by itself it will take dull looking aluminium and make it look like stainless.
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Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox
(Post 10740836)
Very cool, thank you.
If you stop at the 0000 steel wool should you be rubbing on some kind of protectant? I know mothers is not only polishing the metal but also leaving behind a thin protectant that will prevent oxidation. Here's the product page for Mother's: http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101_b.html Makes no mention of protection. I've been wiping on Nu Finish after polishing lately...I think it adds a tad of shine and I have to think a little silicone is being left behind in micro scratches that will provide some protection. The beauty of bare aluminum ALLOY (haha) is if it starts to get funky, just Mother's it again...easy as cake. Once you get the hard work of scratch removal and polishing done a quick touch up is just that, quick. |
actually it's the chemical reaction of the oxalic acid in those polishes (and Mothers is just one of many brands that contain OA) that produces the black residue on the rag. If there are abrasives in the polish, too, it's those that "remove aluminum"...most of these polishes (Super7, Happich Simichrome, MAAS, Autosol, etc., etc.) make a big effort to point out that they are NON-abrasive.
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BTW, the noun form of "cool" is "coolth", as "warmth" is to "warm". ;)
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@noglider, i used my mitts.
It really wasn't hard at all. I sanded in a bowl of water while i watched garfield with my daughter then took it to the bathroom later on. then sat and watched a movie while i buffed it up and it took less than like 20 minutes... is there something on it to protect the finish once done? Im sure you can do what khatfull said and always just rub it over again. |
Originally Posted by khatfull
(Post 10740994)
I don't know that Mother's leaves any protection. When you use Mothers and it turns black you're actually removing aluminum (aluminum dust is black). I can;t imagine that if it's removing aluminum it's leaving anything behind.
Here's the product page for Mother's: http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101_b.html Makes no mention of protection. . |
Originally Posted by 3373jones
(Post 10741143)
the front of the container says "Shines & protects"...
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Originally Posted by unworthy1
(Post 10741060)
actually it's the chemical reaction of the oxalic acid in those polishes (and Mothers is just one of many brands that contain OA) that produces the black residue on the rag. If there are abrasives in the polish, too, it's those that "remove aluminum"...most of these polishes (Super7, Happich Simichrome, MAAS, Autosol, etc., etc.) make a big effort to point out that they are NON-abrasive.
But, if you're going from a satin like finish, say after 0000 steel wool, to a mirror finish scratches are being removed, be it chemically or abrasively right? The black is still aluminum or some other compound of aluminum I'd imagine? (I absoluetly SUCKED at chemistry :)). Regardless, OP made the part like or better than new...and that's the schweet part! Reminds me, I got a tall Nitto Technomic stem with like a 140mm reach out of a junk box at an LBS (it was $4, couldn't leave it...) that I'm going to polish up and put on the "pay it forward" thread. The only cost? The story of why you have a frame for which you need an extra tall stem with a 140mm reach. Should be interesting :) |
@khatull yep it does look new and im totally impress with it. My wife was even impressed.
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"Reminds me, I got a tall Nitto Technomic stem with like a 140mm reach out of a junk box at an LBS (it was $4, couldn't leave it...) that I'm going to polish up and put on the "pay it forward" thread. The only cost? The story of why you have a frame for which you need an extra tall stem with a 140mm reach. Should be interesting."
I need an extra tall Nitto technomic with some extra reach for my 20 folder... :) |
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