Crank and chainline question.
05-03-10, 10:39 AM
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Crank and chainline question.
I'm really liking the Biopace rings on the crank on the Tiara. The only thing I'd like is a small ring smaller than 42T, which evidently doesn't exist in 130BCD (in a Biopace ring anyway). Does it significantly mess up the chainline to run a triple crank without the small ring?
05-03-10, 11:03 AM
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not using a inner chainwheel will not affect the chainline at all. some bikes, like my '86 Volpe were sold with cranks drilled and tapped for triple but the innner ring left off.
the real benifit to you maybe that you can use a shortr spindle but you may have to experiment.
the real benifit to you maybe that you can use a shortr spindle but you may have to experiment.
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05-03-10, 11:14 AM
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about 1.5mm-2mm more offset to the right if you use the triple spindle. Not so much that it won't work. Do make sure that your front derailleur has enough throw to reach as it currently sits if you go this route. Most will pass. You will have to loosen your limit screw to test it out, though, then reset.
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05-03-10, 07:33 PM
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Just for a point of reference, when setting up the triple crank on my FrankenVega, I was able to improve the chainline by flipping the BB shaft to use the short end on the crank side, still with clearance between the small chainring and the chainstay. If your BB shaft has unequal end lengths, you could check to see if flipping it improves your chainline.
05-03-10, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tugrul
There is a crank arm that can do the 130 BCD 52T and the 110 BCD 38T? Or is there a 52T for 110?
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05-04-10, 06:13 AM
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Wow, since a 39 is what I was hoping for if I could find a 40 that'd work out. I've not been able to find any information online about what exactly Shimano did make in Biopace. I guess the search continues.
05-04-10, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by A.Winthrop
.
Hi,
.
I assume from the steeds listed in your stable that you know
you can change inner rings on your 130bcd crank without
removing the crank from the spindle. But given your new
interest in BioPace, you may not know that you need to
orient the rings correctly. You will find a stubby tab on
the inside of that 40T BP ring you're after. The tab must
be placed behind the crank arm for proper orientation.
.
I've got BP rings on four bikes, two '86 Centurion Ironman
models (Tange #1/#2; Shimano 600EX), an '88 Ironman Expert
)Tange #1/#2; Shimano 105) and an '87 Centurion LeMans RS
(Tange #2; Shimano Light Action). I like them but am not
qualified to judge their claimed advantages over round rings.
The theory, as discussed on www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace,
sounds pretty good to me and although I'm still learning how
to climb efficiently, I do think they are better on hills, as
claimed, than round rings.
.
Hi,
.
I assume from the steeds listed in your stable that you know
you can change inner rings on your 130bcd crank without
removing the crank from the spindle. But given your new
interest in BioPace, you may not know that you need to
orient the rings correctly. You will find a stubby tab on
the inside of that 40T BP ring you're after. The tab must
be placed behind the crank arm for proper orientation.
.
I've got BP rings on four bikes, two '86 Centurion Ironman
models (Tange #1/#2; Shimano 600EX), an '88 Ironman Expert
)Tange #1/#2; Shimano 105) and an '87 Centurion LeMans RS
(Tange #2; Shimano Light Action). I like them but am not
qualified to judge their claimed advantages over round rings.
The theory, as discussed on www.sheldonbrown.com/biopace,
sounds pretty good to me and although I'm still learning how
to climb efficiently, I do think they are better on hills, as
claimed, than round rings.
.
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