Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Converting sealed bearing hub from 6 to 7 speeds

Search
Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Converting sealed bearing hub from 6 to 7 speeds

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-06-10, 09:54 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jonwvara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Washington County, Vermont, USA
Posts: 3,778

Bikes: 1966 Dawes Double Blue, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1975 Raleigh Sprite 27, 1980 Univega Viva Sport, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1984 Lotus Classique, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record

Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 765 Post(s)
Liked 660 Times in 351 Posts
Converting sealed bearing hub from 6 to 7 speeds

Thanks to a fellow bf member, I'm about to rebuild a Suntour sealed bearing rear hub--which came to me with a broken flange--with a new hub shell/bearing assembly. I'll be switching the axles, since the donor hub has a solid axle, not a quick release one.
I figured that while I was at it, I might as well re-space the hub to accept a 7-speed freewheel rather than the original 6 speed. I've done that many times with cup-and-cone hubs--move 3 or 4 mm of spacers from the non-drive side to the drive side, adjust the hub, re-dish the wheel, and you're good to go.
In this case, though, there are a couple of problems. For one thing, there are no spacers on the non-drive side--just a thick (6mm) steel locknut the bears directly against the notched aluminum bearing compression plate, if that's what you'd call it (I've seen that aluminum part referred to as a "locknut" as well, but it seems to me that the steel nut outboard of it is the real locknut, properly speaking). Okay, that may not be a big problem. It shouldn't be hard to find a thinner 3-mm locknut, use it in place of the original, and add 3mm of spacers to the drive side.
But...that would also involve getting a good enough grip on the aluminum compression plate to loosen the steel locknut on that side. Unless you do that, you can't add the spacers and re-center the axle. (Sticking with 6 isn't a problem--you just work exclusively from the drive side, and leave the non-drive side alone.) Naturally, I don't have the special tool, although our man Sheldon say that it's not necessarily easy to loosen it even WITH the right tool.
Maybe I should leave well enough alone. It may even be that this is the C&V gods' way of telling me to stick with 6, since this wheelset is intended for my Miyata 912, which I've run for years with 7-speeds, though it was of course originally meant for 6.
Anyone have any good ideas for dealing with the aluminum compression plate (again, that's my descrition of it, not Suntour's official name)? I don't want to file flats it it, bang it with a punch, or otherwise beat it up in any way.Suntour Sealed Bearing hub axle low res..jpg
__________________
www.redclovercomponents.com

"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
--Ogden Nash
jonwvara is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 10:41 AM
  #2  
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
 
Zaphod Beeblebrox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Smugglers Notch, Vermont
Posts: 7,531

Bikes: Upright and Recumbent....too many to list, mostly Vintage.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Unless you are going from a Suntour Ultra6 (which is the same width as 5 speed) to a standard 7 speed freewheel you shouldn't need to move any spacers at all.

Standard 6 speed and 7 speed freewheels are the same width.
Zaphod Beeblebrox is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 10:44 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Have you tried the hub and 7-speed freewheel on the frame to see if it fits? Many times it will as the 7-speed freewheel isn't very much wider than a 6 because of the smaller space between cogs (5mm center-to-center as opposed to 5.5mm). If you need a bit more space on the drive side, 2mm should do and you could just add that to the drive side and leave the left alone. You will still be able to fit the hub into the frame easily. That's what I'd do, anyway.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 10:47 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
jonwvara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Washington County, Vermont, USA
Posts: 3,778

Bikes: 1966 Dawes Double Blue, 1976 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1975 Raleigh Sprite 27, 1980 Univega Viva Sport, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1984 Lotus Classique, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record

Mentioned: 77 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 765 Post(s)
Liked 660 Times in 351 Posts
Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox
Unless you are going from a Suntour Ultra6 (which is the same width as 5 speed) to a standard 7 speed freewheel you shouldn't need to move any spacers at all.

Standard 6 speed and 7 speed freewheels are the same width.
You're partly right. The overall width is the same--you can use either 6 or 7 speeds with a 126 spaced frame--but the 7 speed is several mm wider, so when you upgrade from 6 to 7 you need extra spacers on the drive side to keep the chain from rubbing against the dropout or chainstay.
__________________
www.redclovercomponents.com

"Progress might have been all right once, but it has gone on too long."
--Ogden Nash
jonwvara is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 10:57 AM
  #5  
PanGalacticGargleBlaster
 
Zaphod Beeblebrox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Smugglers Notch, Vermont
Posts: 7,531

Bikes: Upright and Recumbent....too many to list, mostly Vintage.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by jonwvara
You're partly right. The overall width is the same--you can use either 6 or 7 speeds with a 126 spaced frame--but the 7 speed is several mm wider, so when you upgrade from 6 to 7 you need extra spacers on the drive side to keep the chain from rubbing against the dropout or chainstay.
I've never needed to so I Guess I've just been lucky two or three times!
Zaphod Beeblebrox is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 11:05 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,796
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 403 Post(s)
Liked 144 Times in 107 Posts
Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox
I've never needed to so I Guess I've just been lucky two or three times!
I think it depends on the frame. We have a Bianchi that came with a 6-speed freewheel and a 7-speed fit with no adjustment and no difficulty. On another bike we have, though, the chain interferes with the stays when on the smallest cog.

About that width -- six cogs at 5.5mm c-c gives 27.5mm from small to large, c-c. Seven cogs at 5.0mm c-c gives 30mm. So, a 7-speed freewheel should be, at most, 2.5mm wider than a 6-speed.
desconhecido is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 11:40 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kansai
Posts: 1,683
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Originally Posted by jonwvara
You're partly right. The overall width is the same--you can use either 6 or 7 speeds with a 126 spaced frame--but the 7 speed is several mm wider, so when you upgrade from 6 to 7 you need extra spacers on the drive side to keep the chain from rubbing against the dropout or chainstay.
I've had a similar problem using an Ultra 6 on a 120mm hub in my Mondia Special frame. I had to space the hub out to about 122mm to avoid chain/stay interference on the smallest cog.
robatsu is offline  
Old 05-06-10, 11:50 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Chombi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,128

Bikes: 1986 Alan Record Carbonio, 1985 Vitus Plus Carbone 7, 1984 Peugeot PSV, 1972 Line Seeker, 1986(est.) Medici Aerodynamic (Project), 1985(est.) Peugeot PY10FC

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 150 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 34 Times in 27 Posts
I guess, depending on the design of the hub, a 7 speed frewheel will work with most 126mm spaced hubs. At least with a Mavic 550 rear hub it does, as I found out on my bike build-up last year. It looked close but it worked out great. The 7 speed freewheels have narrower cog spacing to make it fit on 126mm hubbed bikes, but you will have to use a narrow chain so the system shifts good.

Chombi
Chombi is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PeregrineA1
Classic & Vintage
14
01-31-17 08:20 AM
suncake
Classic & Vintage
24
06-05-13 10:45 AM
fiataccompli
Classic & Vintage
8
05-12-12 05:54 PM
ivko
Bicycle Mechanics
4
05-04-12 03:39 PM
robbied196
Bicycle Mechanics
1
12-16-10 08:01 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.