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Finding Replacement Parts for a 1985 Cannondale ST 500

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Finding Replacement Parts for a 1985 Cannondale ST 500

Old 06-24-10, 04:57 PM
  #1  
Jon Luskin
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Finding Replacement Parts for a 1985 Cannondale ST 500

I've got this bike: https://www.lisaandmichael.net/wp-con...t-500_full.jpg

And I got a new chain and rear cassette. The crankset that I got

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-170mm-.../dp/B001GSMJ36

does not work with the front derailuer. The crankset sits too far to the right of the frame, and the stock front derailuer does have enough reach to get the chain on the even the second chain ring, let alone the big ring.

What should I do? While a more modern deraileur have greater reach? If not, what are my options?

The original suntour chain rings are far gone and I have doubt about the crankarms, as they appear to be out of true.

I'd like to to have lower gearing than offered by the stock granny gear: 30T. (Hence why I ordered the product above.)

What should I do?
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Old 06-24-10, 05:19 PM
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You may want to talk with your local bike shop.....
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Old 06-24-10, 05:39 PM
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Get an MTB FD and RD and the correct chain. An FD built for a double will not work with a triple crankset and road triple FDs will have a hard time working with MTB triple cranks. Also, your crank requires an 122.5mm spindle length. Make sure that the spindle in your BB is that size (you might need a new BB as well).
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Old 06-24-10, 05:39 PM
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You normally have to match the bottom bracket to the crankset. Are you reusing the original bb? If so, head to a bike shop and get some assistance.

The bike did not originally come with a Suntour crankset, it came with a Sugino.

I had a 1985 ST500 last year, and the front did not shift well either (previous owner had replaced the front crank at some point). I installed a replacement crankset bought off ebay, came off a 1985 Trek 720 touring bike. Problem solved. If I still had the bike, I would go out and count the teeth on that small ring. It looks smaller than 30 to me. (I looked it up, its a 48/44/28 according to vintage Trek). The original Cannondale crankset was 48/44/30. Someone had replaced mine with something more like 52/42/30 or similar. Bike did not like it!


Personally, I would not have put that modern cheap crank on the bike, I would have sought out a vintage replacement. If you check ebay regularly, you can find vintage stuff for no more $$ than that new crank.


Last edited by wrk101; 06-24-10 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 06-24-10, 07:08 PM
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I have a 1984 ST-500 and the BB is the cartridge style. There is a lot of adjustment so the crank set can be adjusted in or out from the frame. I forgot to measure mine when I took it apart so I set it up and moved the front derailer in and out and it was OK. My BB was dry as a bone and since it is a sealed unit I drilled a 3/8" hole in it and filled it with grease ,covered the hole and remounted it. It is now quite and runs smooth. I will change it if I ever start using the bike.
OK guys where do I get a replacement BB like this one.
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Old 06-24-10, 07:36 PM
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Jon Luskin- I work on these older Cannondale ST's a bunch and come across this problem quite often. Short version is an older crank like the one you had requires a wider BB- and often to get it out far enough on the drive side the BB itself is asymmetrical by 3mm or more (e.g. the drive side sticks out farther than the non-drive side).

Modern cranks are offset within the spider and do not require as much offset or as wide a BB. So the crank you bought is not good for that bike unless you match it with the correct FD and BB and the suggestions already given are solid. If you want to continue using the BB on the bike, find an equivalent vintage triple crankset that will work with your FD. If you're having trouble finding one, PM me as I have several good ones in stock and I'm pretty sure one or two of them have the 28 small ring.

EddyR- I have one of those Suntour BB's and they actually use a pair of easily obtained sealed bearings (I think 30 X 17). If yours was dry, the new grease will only hide the problems for a short time, since dry = very bad. A replacement isn't needed unless the spindle is worn out, just buy new bearings.
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Old 06-24-10, 09:20 PM
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RCCARDR is that radio control driver? I have rebuilt many non cartridge style BB's. I was suprised to see this one in this bike when I got it. The bike is a future project or maybe a flipper. I didn't see any way to take it apart. How does it come apart?. I have a mint condition 1987 Cannondale SR 2000 all Dura-Ace. Does that also have the cartridge.
Thanks EddyR
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Old 06-25-10, 05:43 AM
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rccardr = R/C Car Doctor. That's been my big-time hobby for the last 22 years. I race all over the US, mainly in the Tamiya TCS series. Wrote for RCCA for 7 years back in the 90's and that was the name of my monthly column.

The bearings fit into the sleeve that says Suntour on the inside and into the cups on the outside. As you mentioned earlier, it's adjustable- kinda like a Wood BB- from side to side because it uses two locking rings instead of a fixed cup. But it can only adjust maybe a couple of mm (and remember that wider on one side means closer to the frame on the other). With new bearings it will run much more smoothly. I've only ever seen one and it came in a prehistoric ST AA series frame, and the bearings were totally shot. After I replaced 'em it was like brand new.

That 87 SR2000 is my Grail Bike- the yellow one. Does yours have the handpainted stuff on it? Pretty sure it has a DA or period Shimano cup and cone BB.

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Old 06-25-10, 06:22 AM
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Jon,

Could I suggest returning the crankset and simply buying new chain rings for the crankset you had originally? While chain rings are not always cheap, in the end it is the easiest way to go because you keep the same FD and BB. There are many places to order them but I like Loose Screws. It is truly a "Mom and Pop" online shop and I've had great customer service with Jean.

I'd guess that you have 130 BCD chain rings but they could be 110 BCD. If you can measure the distance in mm between two of the five bolts holding the chain ring to the crankset arm, and post that measurement, we'll calculate the BCD for you and help you with what to buy.

Here is a list of the 130s: https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=399475416012

And here are the 110s: https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=399475416012

Great looking bike! Welcome to C&V. Do you have a closeup picture of the existing crankset?

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Old 06-25-10, 06:52 AM
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RCCARDR I just noticed the AKA Dr Cannondale Yes my 87 Cannondale is the Yellow model. I bought is three years ago with 1200 miles on it from original owner.It does not have the hand painted designs on it. My son in law has a red one with the hand painting on it. My ST-500 is a prehistoric BB serial number. Here is a picture of the Yellow Cannondale and it's old rider,69 when the picture was taken. Also here is the ST-500 and the SR-2000 together.
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Old 06-25-10, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by EddyR View Post
I have a 1984 ST-500 and the BB is the cartridge style. There is a lot of adjustment so the crank set can be adjusted in or out from the frame. I forgot to measure mine when I took it apart so I set it up and moved the front derailer in and out and it was OK. My BB was dry as a bone and since it is a sealed unit I drilled a 3/8" hole in it and filled it with grease ,covered the hole and remounted it. It is now quite and runs smooth. I will change it if I ever start using the bike.
OK guys where do I get a replacement BB like this one.
Ed
Ed
I don't think you can just 'adjust' the BB over in this case. cranks and BB have come a long way since '85. the cranks have alot less 'dish' today then they did in '85. a typical road spindle was about 120 or so and before everyone moved from square taper the average was 102 to 105.

I agre I this gent needs to seek the aide of a bike shop.


Eddy you best bet is to get a Phil Wood BB
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Old 06-26-10, 03:23 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Jon,

Could I suggest returning the crankset and simply buying new chain rings for the crankset you had originally? While chain rings are not always cheap, in the end it is the easiest way to go because you keep the same FD and BB. There are many places to order them but I like Loose Screws. It is truly a "Mom and Pop" online shop and I've had great customer service with Jean.

I'd guess that you have 130 BCD chain rings but they could be 110 BCD. If you can measure the distance in mm between two of the five bolts holding the chain ring to the crankset arm, and post that measurement, we'll calculate the BCD for you and help you with what to buy.

Here is a list of the 130s: https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=399475416012

And here are the 110s: https://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=399475416012

Great looking bike! Welcome to C&V. Do you have a closeup picture of the existing crankset?

There are two reasons that I went the the cheap MTB crank.

#1: I wanted a smaller granny gear than 28
#2: There is something funny about the crank. I think it's warped. When I look down at it while pedaling it looks out of true.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-26-10, 05:17 PM
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it is possible that your chainwheels are slightly out of true but a competent mechanic should be abloe to correct that.

what was the BCD on your old crank? if it was a standard size you should be able to atleast get a 26.
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Old 06-26-10, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
it is possible that your chainwheels are slightly out of true but a competent mechanic should be abloe to correct that.

what was the BCD on your old crank? if it was a standard size you should be able to atleast get a 26.
Crap. So, it's not a Suntour. It's a Stronglight so the BCD is 86, which is no longer available insofar as replacement chainrings go.

So, what are my options?
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Old 06-26-10, 10:25 PM
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And, I'd like to do this myself is possible. I realize now that the crank I put on there is a mistake, and that'll have to go.

What are my options for obtaining a triple crankset for a five speed as inexpensive as possible?

Will this work? https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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Old 06-27-10, 03:02 AM
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Probably not and once again you will run into a BB length challenge.

While I'm not up on this, the Stronglight might use a different BB taper and/or spindle width in the first place. This could be why the MTB crankset did not work.

This would be a better option. Make an offer of about $100 which would be a great deal since it includes the BB.

https://cgi.ebay.com/Stronglight-Oxal...item335dffe42b

Are you certain about the BCD? Did you multiply the mm distance between the chainring bolts by 1.701? From the picture above, it just does not look any smaller than a 110, but I could be completely wrong.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html
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Old 06-27-10, 06:23 AM
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Jon I still feel that perhaps, atleast as far as the crank and BB are concerned, you may be over your head. as you no doubt noticed you need special tools to remove your old BB and install the new one. I think you need to seek the advice of a shop or atleast a more experienced home mechanic. where do you live? perhaps a C&Vr close by will lend a hand.
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Old 06-27-10, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Jon I still feel that perhaps, atleast as far as the crank and BB are concerned, you may be over your head. as you no doubt noticed you need special tools to remove your old BB and install the new one. I think you need to seek the advice of a shop or at least a more experienced home mechanic. where do you live? perhaps a C&Vr close by will lend a hand.
You will save money going to a good shop, or finding a good flipper in your area that can change it out for you. Just one guy's opinion, but that modern crank will look like crap on that bike, and take some additional work on the bottom bracket.

Add your location to your profile, so it shows up below your avatar. There may be some good help in your area.

Last edited by wrk101; 06-27-10 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 06-27-10, 10:25 AM
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Yep, agreed +3. If you were in the DC area, we could resolve this over less than a 6 pack. Where do you live? You may find an equally cooperative C&V'er in your area with the requisite assortment O'spindles and tools to juggle parts until things line up properly.

Failing that, head for the best local LBS with a real mechanic in the shop who can do the same thing. My guess is that the BB on there is a 127/128 and you need a 122 (although sometimes an asymmetrical 120 will fit)

Failing THAT, PM me regarding those three vintage triple cranksets I have that would pretty much match what was on there in the first place.
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Old 06-28-10, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Jon I still feel that perhaps, atleast as far as the crank and BB are concerned, you may be over your head. as you no doubt noticed you need special tools to remove your old BB and install the new one. I think you need to seek the advice of a shop or atleast a more experienced home mechanic. where do you live? perhaps a C&Vr close by will lend a hand.
I've already replaced the BB before when that one that was in before I bought it died. I've got all the tools for removal and installation.

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Old 06-28-10, 02:21 PM
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What's with the driveside chainstay? Is that a killer dent, or is that how the bike was made?
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Old 06-28-10, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
What's with the driveside chainstay? Is that a killer dent, or is that how the bike was made?
That's how Cannondale built their bikes. Its so the crank arm clears.
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Old 06-28-10, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
What's with the driveside chainstay? Is that a killer dent, or is that how the bike was made?
Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
That's how Cannondale built their bikes. Its so the crank arm clears.
These bikes have pronounced dents on both drive (two one the outside, one on the inside -tire clearance) and non-drive (one and one) side of the chain stays:

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Old 06-28-10, 03:43 PM
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Yep. Two on the drive side- one for the inner ring and one for heel clearance- and a heel clearance one on the non-drive side.
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