Peugeot UO8
12-08-17, 07:40 PM
#26
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Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
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As a UO-8 owner (mine is a near twin to post #16 except white cable housing) since 1973, I say fix it up. Mine has been dead reliable. It has only been changed on the rear derailleur, the rims, and the seatpost. Bought new with a bike shop fitted Suntour V-GT for the mountains of central PA, it was refitted with a French Simplex Criterium (looks like a Prestige with a silver name plate and steel reinforcements on the body for crisper shifts). It also has a cotterless crank fitted and alloy rims.
If removing cottered French cranks, keep the cotters and label which side they come off of. French cotters are hard to find, as are bottom bracket parts. I went to alloy rims after a steep long descent with the steel Rigida rims ended with melted Mafac Racer pad material filling the brake surface serrations. The cotterless crank was added because I did NOT label what side the cotters came from and they never fit securely afterwards. One benefit was the new crank took English pedals. The alloy seatpost in French size was added when the Ideale 39 saddle was swapped out after a soaking (it has since been restored and sits on the original chrome steel seatpost).
I moved on to a different bike after about 3 years, but could not part with the Peugeot. After I got married, my wife was introduced to cycling on the UO-8 which she rode for 2 years before she went to a Bianchi mainly due to the difficulty of getting French parts when Mel Pinto closed. I still take it for a spin occasionally, and it gets a lot of looks. When I no longer ride it it will became a wall display of a classic 1970s bike boom French bike. I just cannot sell it. I would have been the same with my first car, a 1965 VW Beetle, but PA road salt and wet had a hand there.
You will like that bike.
If removing cottered French cranks, keep the cotters and label which side they come off of. French cotters are hard to find, as are bottom bracket parts. I went to alloy rims after a steep long descent with the steel Rigida rims ended with melted Mafac Racer pad material filling the brake surface serrations. The cotterless crank was added because I did NOT label what side the cotters came from and they never fit securely afterwards. One benefit was the new crank took English pedals. The alloy seatpost in French size was added when the Ideale 39 saddle was swapped out after a soaking (it has since been restored and sits on the original chrome steel seatpost).
I moved on to a different bike after about 3 years, but could not part with the Peugeot. After I got married, my wife was introduced to cycling on the UO-8 which she rode for 2 years before she went to a Bianchi mainly due to the difficulty of getting French parts when Mel Pinto closed. I still take it for a spin occasionally, and it gets a lot of looks. When I no longer ride it it will became a wall display of a classic 1970s bike boom French bike. I just cannot sell it. I would have been the same with my first car, a 1965 VW Beetle, but PA road salt and wet had a hand there.
You will like that bike.
12-30-17, 02:23 PM
#27
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Bikes: Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Peugeot UO8, Trek 820, Motobecane Grand Record + projects
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The UO8 was a cheap bike, mass produced, spec'ed to a budget, that accidentally (?) has a really sweet geometry and an amazingly durable construction. It rides intuitively and comfortably way above it's pedigree. Yes, it's tubing is low grade, it's lugs are classless, it's manufacture haphazard...but the the design is beautiful, as is the ride. Viva la France!
12-30-17, 03:27 PM
#28
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Bikes: 72 Peugeot UO-8, 82 Peugeot TH8, 87 Bianchi Brava, 76? Masi Grand Criterium, 74 Motobecane Champion Team, 86 & 77 Gazelle champion mondial, 81? Grandis, 82? Tommasini, 83 Peugeot PF10
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The Aztek design must have worked well for brazing and was certainly distinctive.As for the ride and performance, I upgraded most of the components on mine and still ride it. I've ridden eight or nine different C&V bikes up Cadillac Mt. in Acadia National Park and the most recent, September 2016, was the UO-8. (IIRC they used the hyphen in the name back then.) It holds its own quite nicely.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
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02-17-19, 01:06 PM
#29
Newbie
Wow, a 2004 thread revived in 2011 and revived again in 2017! I'll chime in because I've been riding my UO-8 since about 1972. Put decent alloy wheels on it with good tires, install Suntour Vx or VGT Luxe derailleurs, replace all the steel bits with alloy as you can afford it, and you'll have a nice road bike.
Keep it going
02-17-19, 01:08 PM
#30
Newbie
I'd describe the lugs as in a class by themselves rather than classless. The Aztek design must have worked well for brazing and was certainly distinctive.
As for the ride and performance, I upgraded most of the components on mine and still ride it. I've ridden eight or nine different C&V bikes up Cadillac Mt. in Acadia National Park and the most recent, September 2016, was the UO-8. (IIRC they used the hyphen in the name back then.) It holds its own quite nicely.
The Aztek design must have worked well for brazing and was certainly distinctive.As for the ride and performance, I upgraded most of the components on mine and still ride it. I've ridden eight or nine different C&V bikes up Cadillac Mt. in Acadia National Park and the most recent, September 2016, was the UO-8. (IIRC they used the hyphen in the name back then.) It holds its own quite nicely.
02-17-19, 01:23 PM
#31
Bad example
Just stumbled upon this and had to keep it going like a chain letter... I just bought one on evilbay and am awaiting its arrival. Needs a lot of putting back together and I plan on some updates hopefully if I can figure out the compatability. I rode my dads, I think UO8, around a bit as a teenager back in 90’-92’. I loved the ride and miss it, so I hunted one down. I dig all types of cycling, fixed, road, mountain its all fun and games. Cant beat a steel frame. I have a modern aluminum road and mtb and I prefer my older steel frame counterparts.
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02-17-19, 01:30 PM
#32
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I posted a pic of my green one on the other thread a few days ago. I'm glad you found one.
02-17-19, 07:09 PM
#33
Newbie
Anywaysssss its red. I still want a green one and this red one sort of caught my eye and probably won’t have the heart to change the color on it as that just doesn’t seem right. In fact I jumped the gun on calling it a UO8. I responded to a few and got them confused. Nearly all I responded to were UO8. I think it is also but not certain...it has the chrome tipped fork but I suppose other models may have as well. Gonna need derailleurs and I’ll be finding out soon if this will be difficult or easy. Probably will need upgrading at wheels as well. I wonder how many people are familiar with switching to 700c and if that is even a good idea. I know about brake reach but I’m curious about being slightly closer to the ground if that will cause issue with pedal strike. Im wondering about the bb height? 10-5/8"?? Having one a little upgraded but relatively true to its origins seems cool. If the bb height is 10-5/8" having one ss or fixed seems like a fun bike as well. I started thinking that way cause a few that I stumbled across were missing quite a few components or obviously broken parts like the downtube shifters for instance. I saw somebody just posted a pic of a nice green one that they were going to install brakes and potentially sell.
02-17-19, 07:12 PM
#34
Newbie
Hello, was that your bike that was gonna be available after you install brakes? If so it was nice. Green still is my favorite on the Peugeot. Super classy. The checkered decals look so nice against the green imo.
02-17-19, 07:13 PM
#35
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Bikes: 72 Peugeot UO-8, 82 Peugeot TH8, 87 Bianchi Brava, 76? Masi Grand Criterium, 74 Motobecane Champion Team, 86 & 77 Gazelle champion mondial, 81? Grandis, 82? Tommasini, 83 Peugeot PF10
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Welcome to C&V! That pic could have been Nova Scotia as the coastline would be similar. However this was at the top of Cadillac Mountain, Acadia National Park, on Mt. Desert Island, Maine. That view is looking north. Turn around 180 degrees and you see the Atlantic.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
06-05-19, 08:49 AM
#36
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Peugeot UO8 re-bending spread rear dropout
I bought my U08 brand new in 1973. The guys that I rode with told me that the Delrin plastic derailleurs were junk and would break. The guys were right. The rear derailleur broke - in 2018! The derailleur failed during a ride, locking the rear wheel. The rear axle broke into two pieces. The dropout on the derailleur side spread into a 'V" shape.
My question is about bending the dropout back into the original shape to form the axle slot. Should I heat the dropout to soften the steel before bending or bend it cold and possibly risk hardening or embrittling the steel dropout? If I heat the dropout with a propane torch, do I need to be concerned with affecting the brazed joints at the tube frames?
Also, I'm considering a used Suntour V-GT rear derailleur to replace the broken Simplex. It's not OEM but it is the roughly the correct vintage, has a good reputation from what I've read, and affordable. Any thoughts about a replacement rear derailleur?
Thanks
My question is about bending the dropout back into the original shape to form the axle slot. Should I heat the dropout to soften the steel before bending or bend it cold and possibly risk hardening or embrittling the steel dropout? If I heat the dropout with a propane torch, do I need to be concerned with affecting the brazed joints at the tube frames?
Also, I'm considering a used Suntour V-GT rear derailleur to replace the broken Simplex. It's not OEM but it is the roughly the correct vintage, has a good reputation from what I've read, and affordable. Any thoughts about a replacement rear derailleur?
Thanks
06-05-19, 11:35 AM
#37
feros ferio
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Yes, absolutely replace the Simplex with SunTour.
This one started out as a bare frame and has always had aluminum cranks, Shimano Titlist front derailleur, and a SunTour rear derailleur. It is by far the lowliest steed in my stable (see signature), but probably gets the most use just because it is so versatile and "scratchable." I would slowly and gently bend the dropout back into shape and then check for cracks.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
06-05-19, 01:37 PM
#38
Crawlin' up, flyin' down
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. . . . My question is about bending the dropout back into the original shape to form the axle slot. Should I heat the dropout to soften the steel before bending or bend it cold and possibly risk hardening or embrittling the steel dropout? If I heat the dropout with a propane torch, do I need to be concerned with affecting the brazed joints at the tube frames? . . . .
Campagnolo and Park both made/make tools to do exactly what you want. I'm sure others have made them as well - VAR, for instance. If you have a local shop that understands vintage (bike-speak for "old") steel frames and has the tools to do this job, find out what they will charge to realign the dropout. If it is within your budget, let a pro do it (and by "pro", I do not mean the 17 year old kid who probably doesn't know that bike frames can be made of steel).
You can do it yourself with a couple pairs of vise grips or channel locks pliers (one to bend the part that is out of alignment, the other to keep you from bending that part that is still in alignment. The trick isn't bending it back so it is close; the trick is fine tuning the dropout back into proper position so that derailleurs and wheels are in proper alignment. Having the right tool(s) for the job make that much easier.
Welcome to C&V. It's a pretty gentle crowd, most of the time. Just don't get people started on Campagnolo vs. Shimano.
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06-05-19, 02:13 PM
#39
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One of my bikes that I shouldn't have sold, and still regret selling. The picture is as it was originally restored, and later sold. In between, the majority of it's life was spent sporting Normandy hubs and French tubular rims (forget the brand) and tires. The difference in performance was, as would be expected, incredible. I've always loved a late 60's/early 70's low end amateur racing bike, and really enjoyed riding this bike.
Another moment of "one too many bikes and I'm moving". So the UO-8 went so the Tour de France could stay.
Another moment of "one too many bikes and I'm moving". So the UO-8 went so the Tour de France could stay.
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“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
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Syke
“No one in this world, so far as I know — and I have searched the records for years, and employed agents to help me — has ever lost money by underestimating the intelligence of the great masses of the plain people. Nor has anyone ever lost public office thereby.”
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06-07-19, 07:07 AM
#40
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I had a similar dropout issue with my AO-8; I was able to carefully bend it back into shape as suggested (no heat needed) then realigned the dropouts. Just take your time and don’t bend too much/rapidly, avoid flexing back and forth.
06-09-19, 07:24 AM
#41
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UO8s make nice beater bikes and excellent urban fixies. Keep the headset and bottom bracket maintained, as they can be difficult to replace.
Check your rims; if they are steel, consider replacing them for daily riding (alloy rims brake better than steel). It likely has a cottered crank, and I recommend trying to replace these with cotterless eventually. Take your time; replacement parts can be found cheaply in thrifts and the like if you're patient.
Pricing seems to vary. I bought mine for five dollars and fixed it up as a fixed gear with old parts from my basement; the total investment was just under 40$. I personally wouldn't pay more than 25$ for one, but I've seen them go for more on ebay and one poster here swears 125-250$ is fair for one modernized and in good condition.
The bikes do have some odd issues-- weird seatpost sizing, 96mm front dropout width, but all this can be overcome with a tad of ingenuity. There's a reason why people still like riding them.
Check your rims; if they are steel, consider replacing them for daily riding (alloy rims brake better than steel). It likely has a cottered crank, and I recommend trying to replace these with cotterless eventually. Take your time; replacement parts can be found cheaply in thrifts and the like if you're patient.
Pricing seems to vary. I bought mine for five dollars and fixed it up as a fixed gear with old parts from my basement; the total investment was just under 40$. I personally wouldn't pay more than 25$ for one, but I've seen them go for more on ebay and one poster here swears 125-250$ is fair for one modernized and in good condition.
The bikes do have some odd issues-- weird seatpost sizing, 96mm front dropout width, but all this can be overcome with a tad of ingenuity. There's a reason why people still like riding them.
11-05-21, 03:20 PM
#42
L-man
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Zombies never die
I will soon recieve my 1970 Peugeot UO8 Looks fairly clean ,and at 125.00 I couldn't resist.
oh, what fun awaits me.....I hope more than the fist 850 spider that I bought while o. High school !
The Italian hose clamps sucked, leaked, and caught fire, death of the fiat on a long Texas road, rear engines, yeah, that was exciting.
Here's to the new journey
oh, what fun awaits me.....I hope more than the fist 850 spider that I bought while o. High school !
The Italian hose clamps sucked, leaked, and caught fire, death of the fiat on a long Texas road, rear engines, yeah, that was exciting.
Here's to the new journey
Last edited by Lman; 11-07-21 at 06:43 PM.
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