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Old 07-01-10, 03:52 PM   #1
miamijim
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Replacing hub races 101

Not really a 101 project but what the heck....

On occasion you'll come across hub races that need replacing. Obtaining the races themselves can be an issue but if you happen to have one around here's the procedure.



Get everything ready. Its important to find a socket that the same diameter as the hub opening and race. Have this socket ready to go!!!

Pic 1. Obtain replacement race. I obtained mine from an donor Record hub.
Pic 2 & 3 . Install race removing tool. These are actually called 'bearing pullers'. I bought a complete set from Harbor Freight
Pic 4 & 5. Decide how your going to remove the race. You can either use a slide hammer or come in from the backside and tap the puller (I guess at this point it a pusher) with a drift (I used an axle) and hammer
Pic 6. Heat hub shell. It doesnt take much, 3 or 4 seconds is all.

At this point remove the race with the desired mothed as seen in pics 3 or 4. Let race cool completely before removing race from bad hub. This is important as you want to shrink back down to ease installation.

Now you remove the bad race. Follow the same steps as you did when removing the donor race. As soon as the bad race is removed immediatly install the donor race. My donor race dropped right in because it was cold and the hub shell was still hot from removing the bad race. As the hub shell cools it'll tighten around the cold donor race. If the race doesnt drop right in heat the shell a touch more and drive it into the place the socket Pic 7.








Last edited by miamijim; 07-13-17 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 07-01-10, 04:24 PM   #2
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Old 07-01-10, 05:25 PM   #3
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I cringe at your locking your hub in a vice like that, even though I'm guessing it's a trash hub

Step 1: Properly secure your hub in vice

just kidding, but seriously
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Old 07-01-10, 06:22 PM   #4
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I didn't know you could replace bad races. Do you have to use the fancy equipment?
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Old 07-02-10, 08:38 AM   #5
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I replaced a bad race in a Record high flange hub once. I took one from a cracked hub. I used a small screwdriver to tap the race out from the other side. It worked like a charm, the whole project took about 10 minutes, and it saved a hub that was laced in a wheel.

Good thing I didn't trash that cracked hub!
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Old 07-02-10, 11:19 AM   #6
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I didn't know you could replace bad races. Do you have to use the fancy equipment?
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala View Post
I replaced a bad race in a Record high flange hub once. I took one from a cracked hub. I used a small screwdriver to tap the race out from the other side. It worked like a charm, the whole project took about 10 minutes, and it saved a hub that was laced in a wheel.

Good thing I didn't trash that cracked hub!
As mentioned by RK you dont need fancy equiptment. If you use the screwdriver method be carefull not to rock the cup/race back and forth too much as it will distort the hub shell diameter and cause the new cup/race to fit loosely.

Something like the tool pictured below would probaly work as well. You could either try to pull real hard or insert an old axle from the backside and tap the race/cup out from the back.

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Old 07-02-10, 05:10 PM   #7
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Thanks for the write-up Jim. Useful to know.
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Old 07-13-17, 01:37 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
Not really a 101 project but what the heck....

On occasion you'll come across hub races that need replacing. Obtaining the races themselves can be an issue but if you happen to have one around here's the procedure.



Get everything ready. Its important to find a socket that the same diameter as the hub opening and race. Have this socket ready to go!!!

Pic 1. Obtain replacement race. I obtained mine from an donor Record hub.
Pic 2 & 3 . Install race removing tool. These are actually called 'bearing pullers'. I bough a complete set from Harbor Freight
Pic 4 & 5. Decide how your going to remove the race. You can either use a slide hammer or come in from the backside and tap the puller (I guess at this point it a pusher) with a drift (I used an axle) and hammer
Pic 6. Heat hub shell. It doesnt take much, 3 or 4 seconds is all.

At this point remove the race with the desired mothed as seen in pics 3 or 4. Let race cool completely before removing race from bad hub. This is important as you want to shrink back down to ease installation.

Now you remove the bad race. Follow the same steps as you did when removing the donor race. As soon as the bad race is removed immediatly install the donor race. My donor race dropped right in because it was cold and the hub shell was still hot from removing the bad race. As the hub shell cools it tighten around the cold donor race. If the race doesnt drop right in heat the shell a touch more and drive it into the place the socket.
@miamijim - Do you happen to still have these photos somewhere? I am going to attempt this very process and your pictures would be helpful.
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Old 07-13-17, 02:38 PM   #9
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@miamijim - Do you happen to still have these photos somewhere? I am going to attempt this very process and your pictures would be helpful.


Ditto.
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Old 07-13-17, 03:14 PM   #10
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Pitty bump for post 1 re-picutre
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Old 07-13-17, 04:51 PM   #11
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Pitty bump for post 1 re-picutre
Great post. Thanks. I can measure but do you happen to know the size of socket you used?
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Old 07-13-17, 05:42 PM   #12
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Pitty bump for post 1 re-picutre
If you're inclined to fix some of the forum knowledge base you've contributed to, I'd recommend your instructional on overhauling sealed hub bearings. I bookmarked it for later use, as I've been eyeballing an old pair of Suntour Cyclone hubs that I haven't gotten to yet.

Post #11 on http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...t-replace.html

Thanks for making it look easy!
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Old 07-13-17, 05:57 PM   #13
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...You could either try to pull real hard or insert an old axle from the backside and tap the race/cup out from the back.

This tool really isn't a puller, it's intended for sealed bearings. So it is inserted from the short side, then a drift is inserted from the other side--what's really good is if the driver has a central pin that will keep the tool from collapsing and coming out. The drift then drives the sealed bearing out.
..........
When I looked at trying to replace races on a bike hub's conventional cup and cone bearing last year, the races were exactly flush with the ID of the hub, so there wasn't a lip to catch on to, and hence the races were practically impossible to replace. Maybe the Record hubs were intended to have replaceable races.
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Old 07-13-17, 06:43 PM   #14
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If you're inclined to fix some of the forum knowledge base you've contributed to, I'd recommend your instructional on overhauling sealed hub bearings. I bookmarked it for later use, as I've been eyeballing an old pair of Suntour Cyclone hubs that I haven't gotten to yet.

Post #11 on http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...t-replace.html

Thanks for making it look easy!

I'll work on it tomorrow.......
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Old 07-13-17, 06:46 PM   #15
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I'll work on it tomorrow.......
Great. No hurry though. I'm a slowpoke about getting to things.
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Old 07-14-17, 06:48 AM   #16
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Old 07-14-17, 07:45 AM   #17
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I've done a couple of those.
Always used a drift punch or sacrificial screwdriver to drive the cup out. Socket to push cup back in. Never bothered with heat.
Seems to work too.
Maybe heat would help on those where cup doesn't overhang central cavity.
On one of those, once welded a nut across the hole to be able to knock the damaged cup out.
Don't take for granted that cups are identical in size. Measure well, or risk splitting hub on install.
Unless like me, youre stubborn & equipped enough to grind cups to correct OD.
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