Tap and grinde or hack it off?
 

Undecided, need opinions to help me commit. Have a simplex hanger-wanting to put a suntour vgt on it. Dr normally attaches from the inside-been hunting the forums and stole a pic from Grand Bois-If I go this far/should I just as well cut the whole thing off? I have a hanger with the suntour/so can use either way. No real need to keep stock-don't care for the dr that is on it. Tho it looks better now/it suffered some major elements exposure.

Please DO NOT damage that Simplex derailleur hanger.
If you don't like the current DR , Simplex made some better ones.


Does the backside of your hanger look like this one? I wanted to install a Suntour V GT as well but not at the expense of altering my PX10 frame.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...10/PX10001.jpg

Don't hack it off. The "tap and file" option won't take any more time, you'll have less bare metal to protect from the elements, and if at some future date you decide to sell the bike, it'll hold its value better. Besides, it won't look "butchered".

SP
Bend, OR
(in case you hadn't guessed, I'm a fan of keeping bikes as original as reasonably possible. And I don't blame you for replacing the Simplex with a Suntour. Those old plastic jobs were poor on a good day.)

I just noticed another current thread dealing with the same question for a Simplex DO/ DR hanger.

Some of the more knowledgeable members have already commented

Please please don't alter that dropout. Old bikes are only original once!

That's me telling him to leave the hanger as is and use a claw.
An even better idea is to find a Super LJ and bolt it on without doing any butchering of the frame.
A Criterium or SX610 will be much cheaper and they both shift well.

http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/38...600x600Q85.jpg

I've got an ugly but fully functional SX610 that you can have for $10 plus whatever shipping is. And it even has the funky little bolt.

There you go! I was going to offer you a mint Criterium or SX610 for $100. That price is just for you because you won't listen to my advice.

If you butcher that hanger, the collector value of that frame drops drastically. Mine is butchered, and I'd hate to see it happen to another one.

The claw will fit over the hanger without trouble?

It needs to be a flat one. It will take the place of your axle stop. If your derailer mounting bolt protrudes, you may have to file it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Index-Derailleur...item1c140d1a51

Sorry for the fuzzy photo's (only have phone cam) Pics of dr and dropout. The hanger attaches the dr with a nut on the dr bolt and the d.o. also has a protrudence of roughly 2/ 32nds......looks like altering the d o in any case-as I don't think the hanger will work without the nut....

The nut is not needed if the hanger is threaded. My VGT has no nut on it. See sentence #3 above. It's better than filing the frame. Most of that "protrudence" is part of the derailer. The dropout also protrudes at the top, so the claw should lay flat against it.

I'll give it a go-thanks for the advice

I failed :crash: The do is really FAT. Got a longer attach bolt/ also turned the adj screw around for the stop-piled up washers to attach (on the out side of the main bolt-as the bolt would need be cut in half) went to put the wheel in and the qr axle was too short-:eek:-also the hanger gave me less room on the tire between the stays/like a hairs breath. 700c wheels would probably do it/or low profile 27's if there is such a thing. Kaching....$$$! It could work with a short main bolt and 700c wheels. Reattached the old one. I'll wait for it to break, then just tap it for the suntour (less evasive and cheapest alternative) Just an old bike-not a showpiece or anything; but saved from extinction as it is. Thanks for the think tank.

I'm confused by what you're saying. This should have no effect on your tire's position. You should not be using washers. Tapping won't make the Suntour fit.

I'm not quite clear either, but if the QR is too short after mounting the hanger, then it is too short PERIOD - hanger or not hanger.

That said, you've already been told that you shouldn't tap it - and even if you do, you have to file it as well. There is NO reason to do so when you can mount that hanger in front. Just because you haven't had luck YET doesn't mean it won't work if you do it RIGHT.

-Kurt

P.S.: This bloody well better not be a troll.

No troll-the dropout is very thick/with the hanger on the outside-even thicker. The bolt (going thru the dr to the hanger is very long/too long to file-will have to be cut. It is however long enough to use on the orig hanger-if I tap the hanger. The wheel is a 5 speed-the skewer isn't that long. (can get a longer one) The washers I was talking about were to fasten the dr bolt (temporary) to see if it would function. By reverseing the adj screw-I see no need to file a flat stop on the orig hanger-(for direct bolt on) It will look cleaner and function better directly attached.....any clearer?

yes-the same/not willing to spend crazy amounts for an old criterium (which I already have and am trying to replace) Suntour functions better

First of all, an SX610 isn't going to cost you an arm and a leg. Some morons price them like that, but such is not indicative of the norm. I have two here that I bought for $10, and they will go cheap on eBay when someone puts one up for a reasonable starting bid. They work just as well as a Suntour, and they could be confused for one at a distance:

http://i.ebayimg.com/09/!BusuSY!EWk~...pgGjhg~~_3.JPG

It looks like an SLJ, but it's not; hence the cheaper price.

I understand what you mean now - the Suntour's top bolt is deeper than the hanger itself; it's threading through and contacting the Simplex hanger behind it. I'd take a file to the Suntour's top bolt. Easy fix, 5 minutes, max.

That said, threading aside, your VGT will never sit properly on the Simplex hanger without filing to the back. I assume that you want to reverse the B-adjustment screw (not any other screw - I don't know which one you were referring to) to clear the back of the hanger. If so, there's a flaw in your quick-fix: Removing the B-screw will only allow the RD to pivot without limit on the hanger, allowing the lower derailer body to rotate upwards into the chainstay and dent it, amongst other potential oddities.

That said, if you can't bear the idea of filing your Suntour's mounting bolt, you should feel the same way about modifying your frame. If you're so intent on the Suntour, why don't you trade your frame (or sell it off) and get something more suitable instead?

-Kurt

By tapping, I mean threading the d.o. -won't hurt it for another simplex install. *** The adj screw (flipped aound so the head contacts the frame) looks ok for a stop.*** Here is a pic of tire position with the simplex on it. With the hanger and SunT, the wheel sits farther up than shown. The wheels are the 27 origs. Tires-27 1 1/4 (32-630) It will never be sold-perhaps in a yard sale someday in the hopefully far far future. Other componenets have been changed, so it is no longer stock. Like the bike-would like better shifting. Have decided not to hack off the hanger. Not my intention to tic people off-it must have been done before-was looking for those opinions on how. BTW-thanks for the offer on the dr-but I'll sort this out.

Looking at the photo of the drop out at the beginning, could you not just use thin nut with the proper threading, Loctite that into the recess in the back of the drop out, then bolt on whatever RD you want to. This would have the advantage in that it could always be converted back to the original by removing the nut.

I don't understand why the wheel is shifted forward. Did you remove the axle spacer?

Brilliant.

Would have to ream out the hole/too small for a slide thru. That being the case, may as well thread it.

Yes, spacer out on drive side-the hanger dosn't fit flush with the slot space. In fact brought the wheel away from the non dr spacer to center the wheel in the slots.