Good for fixie?
 

I stumbled across this old Raleigh Capri. Would this make a good fixed gear?


http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=e12jac&s=4

Yes. That bike will make a fine fixie.

how would the backwheel cog work? Would I need new tires?

Edit: Wheelet*

you could either run it safely as a singlespeed (coasting) with that wheel, or fixed (not safe) with that wheel. Not safe because there is no provision for a lock ring to hold the cog on. To run it fixed, you need to buy a dedicated rear track wheel, cog, and lockring.

Generally, bike collectors won't want you to take a really nice old bike and make it into a fixed gear. This Raleigh comes from their later era, and don't hold the same sentimental or dollar value of the really old one's.

That's not to say it's not a fine bike. It is, and it will suit you very well for a fixed gear. You will probably need a new rear wheel. Check your wheel size - they're either 700c or 27" rims -- if 700c wheels, you can buy a good quality fixed gear rear wheel here. I'd go for one of the Weinmanns in the $65-70 range.

Best of luck.

Can I get thinner 700c tires with this frame or is that not possible?

You can get 27" tires down to 25c wide (Panaracer 27X1" comes to mind). To run it either fixed or singlespeed, redish the rear wheel (center the rim over the hub - look online), and screw on the cog. If you're running a fixed cog, buy red loctite, put it on the threads, screw it down, and mash the pedals a few times to get it on there tight. Then let it sit overnight, and you should be good. As far as chainline (very important on a fixed), check out www.sheldonbrown.com for the info.

The reason it isn't safe to run a fixed cog on a standard hub is, as said before, it runs the danger of unscrewing; however, using the method above, I've never gotten one to unscrew - including the rather loosely fitting Surly cogs. This is on a heavy steel bike with steel wheels and rather wide tires (32c) and me weighing in at 220 lbs.

EDIT: You can run 700c wheels in this frame - you may need longer reach brakes (don't run a fixed gear without at least a front brake - especially with a standard hub) to accomplish that, but on frames of this era, I'd doubt it.

That's one way you can do it - keeping the wheelset you have now and not buying a new rear wheel.

Check what size is marked on the side of your tires. It will either say 622mm or 630mm somewhere on the side. 622 means 700c rims, 630 means 27" rims. If you want to save money and run a brake, go with what Mickey said. You could ride and save up for a new wheelset. Just don't do any massive skidding on it, or you may tear the threads and wind up being (literally) unstoppable.

So yeah, check wheel size and your budget. You can get thinner 27" tires, and 700c tires come in all sizes, down to the ridiculously tiny (19mm, etc) -- but I don't know that I'd recommend you go any smaller than a 23mm on an urban fixed gear. I'd just as soon get a 25mm or 28mm with reinforced tread and low rolling resistance. Speed of the wheel has little to do with tire diameter and more to do with the tire's tread.

Half the fun of making a fixie or single speed is the trial and error.

^True, however, as my dad can attest the whole trial and error part of riding them...not so fun.

His shoulder is still so messed up from going over the handlebars of his. If you have low fitness and just want a bike to poke around on, a fixed-gear is not your bike. He likes coasting :)

The 27" rims on that Capri are likely not hooked bead, and probably won't take the Panaracers without blowing them off.

With all the hipsters dropping out of the fixed-gear craze, fixie wheelsets are cheap. I'd pick up a set of 700C knockoff Deep V's on Craigslist for $80 and be done with it. Might have to put on a longer front brake caliper. Easy stuff.

-Kurt

Like Mikey85 said, you can run a fixed gear using a standard hub. I use the rotofix method of tightening down the cog. With the wheel in the frame and chain on the cog, remove the chain from the chainring. Put a rag around the BB shell, then wrap the chain around itl and hold it tight. Turn the wheel backward to tighten the cog. I've never used loktite on the threads but I do use a bottom bracket lockring to help keep things snug. Just don't even think for a second about running brakeless this way, though.

[edit] see link at post #14 for a better description of rotofix.

There are probably lots of checklists out there, but here's what I'd be looking for, in order of importance:

*Long horizontal dropouts
*English or Italian BB threads
*Single-speed adaptable crank
*700c wheels - bonus for freewheel threads
*Room for at least 28c tires
*Brand bling
*Lack of braze ons like cable guides and shifter bosses

Use the rotafix method as seen here: http://refurbs.blogspot.com/2010/02/rotafix.html and your cog will never come off unless you rotafix it back off. That said, always use a front brake when using this method.

man seems like I have a few things to learn about bike parts before converting.

And learning is fun! Seriously, it's probably less work to convert to fixed gear than it is to overhaul the bike as a geared road bike.

yeah, I had one too. The 410 steel isn't the fanciest, but it rides well and isn't too heavy. It was a good, get-around bike. No problems.

I'm not a fixie guy, but it would make a good one. I remember the only thing I did to mine was getting rid of the suicide brake levers and finding an old-style set of better road brakes for it. It has the long brake bolt and nut, so be careful if you do that....you don't want the internal-type unless you want to drill your fork.

Yeap, the bike rides beautifully. The frame isn't the lightest and thats why i want to turn it into a fixie or at least a singlespeed.

It says 32-630 (27 X 1 1/2)

Can still get thinner wheelset for this frame right?