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Dork disk exceptions, exclusions and proper fix.
First off, Flickr has been giving me issues so if there is no image someone will have to spot me.
I have a Raleigh competition GS with Nuovo gran sport three pin cranks. I am sure the disk was intended to be tossed, cast white metal with Chrome. It looks better without the device but I am not going to "rig" fasteners. Can anyone direct me (or offer?) a suitable replacement fastener? Thanks in advance! here is the location of the image http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankth...7624280229774/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/frankth...7624280229774/ |
I'm not sure of what you are asking, but here are your pics. Nice looking bike.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1065/...c9d6309f59.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1378/...9c3a96b2_b.jpg To get the image address, 1. Right click the flickr picture and pick a size. 2. Right click the link again and scroll down to "View Image Info" 3. Copy and paste the "Location" and use the "insert image" option for the BF forums. (I have some trouble with this, unless I "Go advanced") Hope this helps in the future. |
You mean the chainring guard. A dork disk would be on the cogs, next to the spokes.
Maybe you just need shorter chainring bolts after removing the guard? Nice bike--it looks pretty original. |
beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.
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As chain guards go that's one of the nicer ones I've seen. Really the only ones I actually like are those fancy ones you see occasionally on French touring bikes. But I don't understand the issue. Are you saying the bolts attaching the chainrings won't work if you remove the chain guard?
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Are you looking to add a dork disk to the bike?
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Since he is asking about fasteners, and you dont need any fasteners for a dork disk, I would guess that is what he is looking to do... ditch the chainguard. The bolts probably bottom out without the additional thickness or the guard itself has recesses that the bolt heads go into that are not present on the chainring itself?
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Remove bolts.
Remove chainguard. Slip washers onto bolts. Replace bolts. Am I missing anything? |
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
(Post 11248397)
beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on.
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beautiful bike. I think I would leave the pants guard on. The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right? With the chain/pant guard however, the dork factor is debatable, and they DO serve a purpose if you are going to use the bike for any casual/commuting type riding. Plus I think this particular example is really classy looking, as chain guards go. Do what you want, just make sure you hold on to the chain guard for posterity's sake. [k] |
Originally Posted by auchencrow
(Post 11249133)
+1.
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Originally Posted by shuttervox
(Post 11249231)
Hear, hear.
The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right? [k] Not trying to sound high and mighty--l've taken the disks off all of my bikes, too. But I sometimes wonder of that was such a good idea. I guess this is one of those times. |
With regard to the pants guard, aka cuff guard, the answer to this question is easy. What do you use the bike for? If you're riding to the store to get bike parts and you typically wear jeans or pants while riding, leave it on. If you're using it in club rides while wearing lycra shorts, take it off (the cuff guard, not the shorts). It's a functional part, do you need the function? Yes, remains on, NO remove.
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Originally Posted by shuttervox
(Post 11249231)
The problem with a "dork disk" rear spoke guard is that they not only look tacky (often cheap plastic), they serve no purpose in the majority of cases on a well-maintained bike, right?
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Originally Posted by sykerocker
(Post 11252563)
I'll disagree with you in one instance: A long-haul serious touring bike. Weight doesn't matter, since you're going to ride loaded. If the look offends, you can't see it under the rear panniers, anyway. And if they just ONCE stop your derailleur from going into the spokes 500 miles from home, they ain't 'dork' anymore.
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I keep the metal ones on non-racing bikes. The rest go.
I like the trouser cuff guard things though. I usually ride in street cloths. |
Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes. Pants guards on the crank are kinda cool.
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Originally Posted by dbakl
(Post 11253166)
Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes.
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http://www.bikeforums.net/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by dbakl http://www.bikeforums.net/images/but...post-right.png
Dork disks are for dorks who can't maintain their bikes. I maintain my bikes vigilantly and have still have had them go out of adjustment with out me noticing right away. I imagine that a long cage system on a fast hard shift could find it's way past the big cog even when adjusted properly. So I don't know if the term "dork" is truly accurate. Maybe "Errant Adjustment Inhibitory Plate" is more acceptable? |
Originally Posted by ftwelder
(Post 11252265)
OK, it stays..
When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's. -Kurt |
Besides, I like the look of some chrome ones, like the SRR in my sig. Agreed, that is quite snazzy. [k] |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 11255961)
Darn. For a moment there, I thought I might be able to trade it out of your hands ;)
When it comes to chainring dork disks, Campagnolo is the exception; they look great. Ditto for the TA's. -Kurt http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...CampyCrank.jpg |
Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?
Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring. |
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 11272771)
Pastor Bob, can we see the rest of the Schwinn?
Kurt, don't forget the Stronglight 93 chainguard. It's a toothless chainring. http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...r19Ride2-1.jpg |
Ooohhhh! That's special!
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