NItto? Handlebars and Stems
 

I am upgrading the parts on a used Merckx Corsa ... I have a new Campy seatpost and a Regal saddle installed and my next changes are going to be to the stem and handlebars. I don't ride in the drops alot ... so I would like to have comfortable handlebars. For bars I am thinking of the Nitto 177 "Noodle" bar that has a drop of 140 and reach of 90, although the model 135 Randonneur also looks like a possibility with a drop of 120 and a reach of 105. I don't know the difference these numbers make in comfort for more upright riding positions.

For a stem to match the bars, seems as if the Nitto Technomic or maybe a Pearl is a good choice ... are there others that are high quality in finish and function that I should also look at?

Thanks

Hi Hotwheel,

I use Nitto Noodles and a Pearl on my Century.

Fit and finish are just right for me.

I use a Technomic on my touring bike. Probably better suited for that purpose rather than on your Corsa.

IMHO

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4063/...d1da163c_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/...391406dc_o.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2705/...cb278c5c_o.jpg

Here's a Nitto Pearl with Nitto Dream Bars (44). The noodle is nice (my son has them on his cross bike), but I like the classic bend of the Dream much better. The Pearl stem's finish is as good as any, and better than most.

http://www.velobase.com/CompImages/S...59DFD3648.jpeg

http://www.velobase.com/VeloImages/R...FEB4A3F25.jpeg

I was on the fence about the pearl stem ... no longer. That looks exceptional. Thanks for the images!

One more question about the Nitto Pearl ... in shopping there are some called "tack stems" such as http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1728 and others are only identified as a Pearl stem ... such as this one ... http://www.yellowjersey.org/pearl.html or this one ...
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...370f053196535b

Is there a difference?

Thanks,
JR

Another satisfied user of the Pearl and Noodle combo...

http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/c0fa8eda.jpg

http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/2b033019.jpg

http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t...t/c9a513b8.jpg

The track version is for a 25.4 handlebar size (which is the typical NJS track handlebar diameter) My Noodles are 26.00 and I have Randonneurs that are 25.4. Just make sure your bars and stem match.

ANother thing to keep in mind. The Pearls tend to run long. My Pearl 8 (80mm) is more like a 90mm.

Nice bikes guys!

Yes, I wish I had measured more closely before I purchased the 120.

Swapped out with a buddy at the shop for a Pearl 110 for the EM.

Pic doesn't reflect the swap.

Nitto stem length is measured differently than Italian stems. See http://www.bicycleclassics.com/barsandstems.html. He has the Pearl stems and Nitto bars in stock, by the way.

And I suggest using silver anti-seize compound on the stem's bolts/threads and on the part inserted into the head tube, instead of grease. These uses are exactly what that stuff is made for. Lasts longer, works better, and attracts less dirt.

JML etal,
Thanks for the clarifications and vendor link. The tip on using the sliver anti-seize compound is helpful ... should work well on the seatpost too!

I can't agree regarding the use of graphite products such as Permatex Never-Seize on the seatpost or the handlebar stem. The stuff is perfectly suited for the bolt threads, but not on the surfaces that are inserted and contact the steel portions of the frame.

Standard grease works best on said surfaces. Never-Seize does its job too well - you'll never get your seatpost or stem tightened to the point where they don't move (heck, it is called "Never-Seize," after all). You'll wind up with snapped binder bolts and warped steerer tubes if you keep this up.

Ideally, if someone could develop a friction grease with suitable properties to prevent the bonding of the two dissimilar metals, we'd have the most ideal grease ever developed for the purpose.

-Kurt

I think the noodle bars may be sized differently from most. The size 42 I have is quite a bit more narrow than some other 42s I have.

It's in the way Nitto specs the sizes of their stems. On the box I got with my Pearl, it shows the distance being from the center of the handlebar clamp to the center of the quill, measured along a line that is perpendicular to the axis of the quill. If you buy a Nitto stem that Nitto says is 8 cm, it should measure 8.0 cm along that line. If you measure it with your ruler along the top of the stem extension, or from center to center along a line parallel to the extension, it will measure longer.

I don't know if that method is The Standard way, but it IS Nitto's way.

Again, it's going to be measured Nitto's way, which might or might not be the way you measure it. My 40 cm Noodle (per Nitto's packaging and stampings on teh bar) measures 40 cm c-c across the front edges of the drops, essentially the middle of the curve arc.

I don't agree with the caution about antiseize because of the graphite content. I've had it on bikes for 30 years, with absolutely no evidence of galvanic corrosion, no slipping, cold welding, binding, or any other problem (unlike grease, which dries out, doesn't prevent corrosion in the same way, and which is more lubricious than antiseize). Park Tool and Finish Line sell antiseize made of the same stuff as the Loctite or Permatex Antiseize that I use (probably made in the same factory by Henkel, with the same MSDS information) and recommend it for exactly those purposes. All you need is a small amount of antiseize for it to do the job.

If you have some information about not using antiseize on aluminum-to-steel parts, please let me know where it is. Everything I can find says it's perfectly safe and appropriate for these uses, such as seat posts, stems, lockrings on bottom brackets, freewheel threads, etc., where there are no bearing surfaces involved.

There are special antiseize compounds made for special metals and other materials, such at titanium, where the more common silver variety is not appropriate.