Probably the wrong forum, but can anyone advise on titanium to titanium contact?
I know this isn't the ideal forum, but I also know that there are folks here who will be able to answer. I just switched to a titanium seatpost in my titanium bike and I was wondering if ti has bonding issues like aluminum to aluminum and steel to steel. Do I need to add anything (google searches seem to indicate I do) and if so, how frequently? I think a lot of this sort of advice is given by people who want to sell a product so I wanted to ask here before trusting it.
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Anti-seize compound should work just fine.
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I believe the copper never size works the best. Roger
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How often do I need to reapply?
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Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake
(Post 11392494)
How often do I need to reapply?
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PERFECT...thanks for the help. Sites I was looking at were talking about monthly and annual treatments...which did not make sense.
Also...for those who complain about the old Campy two bolt NR post, the Moots post I just installed was about 10x worse and more frustrating. I don't know who designed this thing, but man it's a nightmare to get a saddle in there. On the plus side, once it;s in, the adjustability is fantastic. |
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake
(Post 11392610)
PERFECT...thanks for the help. Sites I was looking at were talking about monthly and annual treatments...which did not make sense.
Also...for those who complain about the old Campy two bolt NR post, the Moots post I just installed was about 10x worse and more frustrating. I don't know who designed this thing, but man it's a nightmare to get a saddle in there. On the plus side, once it;s in, the adjustability is fantastic. |
It does have screws on the back...it has a hollow circle enclosure on the top with two plates that hold the rails inside of it. I'll try and take a photo later, but it was a serious nightmare...took at least half an hour. I eventually pried the rail section open on one side and tapped with a hammer until it slid in.
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Yup, definitely need a stem spreader. I also find that they make putting on quill stems very easy as well.
You'll be happy with your MOOTS quality, I swear. I just hope you didn't buy it from their site. :twitchy: |
Originally Posted by DRietz
(Post 11392829)
Yup, definitely need a stem spreader. I also find that they make putting on quill stems very easy as well.
You'll be happy with your MOOTS quality, I swear. I just hope you didn't buy it from their site. :twitchy: |
Notes on greasing contact sufaces:
Due to the proliferation of recommendations by gleaned from professional team mechanics who are paid to scrupulously inspect/maintain team bikes, there's a lot of maintenance overkill out there, but precautions to limit typical/galvanic corrosion is too simple to be discouraged. For instance, nitro-burning top fuel drag race engines are rebuilt by their mechanics between runs, because their livelyhood is on the line if an unobserved bearing is spun, cylinder is scratched, or a rod is bent. We'd all like to inspect and monitor wear of everything and anything mechanical, but it gets to a point of excessive impracticality very quickly. Your vehicle engine would love to have a continual supply of virgin oil, but it would be excessive and obsessive to even attempt to clean out the dirty residual oil that doesn't drain due to surface tension (which immediate "contaminates" the fresh oil after an oil change). Keep in mind, the alloys of mating metal parts would need to be precisely identical to eliminate galvanic corrosion, so, unless you could verify the alloy content in your titanium seatpost exactly matches the alloy content of the seat tube. Greasing mating surfaces is cheap insurance; greasing them often is still cheap, just unnecessary and borderline obsessive for most of us not priveledged to hire a full-time mechanic. If, however, you switch to a carbon-fiber seatpost, ask the manufacturer what they recommend since their chosen epoxy and/or carbon compound may be gradually degraded by components of conventional (hydrocarbon) greases. C&V owners have it easy; obsolete replacement parts notwithstanding. |
Hmmm. I've used ti fasteners into ti parts for years without any type of anti-seize. And certainly none was recommended by the manufacturer.
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When I worked for a certain importer of cheap chinese Ti frames, we recommended Finish Line "Ti-Prep" when doing a Ti post in a Ti frame. Also to remove the seatpost at least once a year. Of course they also sold dented and misaligned frames at full price, so it's possible they didn't know anything.
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I'm so glad I have the ti frame I have...I'm of the biased opinion that it doesn't get much better than a Mass. produced Merlin.
I still remember the first time I rode one...it was magical. Owning one has been one of life's few nostalgia/major expectations that hasn't disappointed at all. |
As an aside: I work with the sister of Mike Augsperger, one of the founders of Merlin. He's now creating some very cool hand-powered, off-road titanium cycles for disabled riders. Check it out if you are interested:
http://www.oneoffhandcycle.com/ http://www.titaniumarts.com/ P.s. I always coveted a Merlin frame. As a teenager, I worked delivering pizzas. I saved up for a long time until I finally could afford a Merlin frame, but then couldn't pull the trigger. The $1700 or $1800 for a frame (or whatever it was they cost at the time) was simply too much for me as a 17 year old to blow at one time for something I didn't actually need, but I still lust after them. |
That is seriously cool! I know that Merlin did a lot of wheel chairs and specialty devices for the disabled when they first started.
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Originally Posted by over1
(Post 11392969)
Greasing mating surfaces is cheap insurance; greasing them often is still cheap, just unnecessary and borderline obsessive for most of us not priveledged to hire a full-time mechanic.
Greasing mating surfaces of aluminum to steel (seatposts, stems, pivot bolts, etc) is an absolute requirement. -Kurt |
Look at http://www.neverseezproducts.com/antiseize.htm or browse the Henkel/Loctite website.
Different composition of antiseize for different metals and environments. Copper and nickel seem to be preferred in some, and to be avoided in others. Some are moly-based compounds. Some are made for nuclear power plans! Look at the manufacturer's directions. Bike shops have some antiseize from Park or other makers; auto parts stores have others. Most common stuff is from Permatex or Loctite. I've used the silver antiseize for decades (steel to aluminum). Far superior to any grease for sleeve-fit stuff like stems and seatposts, and superb on threaded parts you rarely undo, but will need to change eventually (freewheels and pedals spindles to cranks). |
Originally Posted by JML
(Post 11395593)
I've used the silver antiseize for decades (steel to aluminum). Far superior to any grease for sleeve-fit stuff like stems and seatposts, and superb on threaded parts you rarely undo, but will need to change eventually (freewheels and pedals spindles to cranks).
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 11395002)
Just wish to clarify for anyone reading this thread looking for ALU-to-steel info:
Greasing mating surfaces of aluminum to steel (seatposts, stems, pivot bolts, etc) is an absolute requirement. -Kurt |
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