wrk101
Thrifty Bill
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You can do it, I have done it a couple of times where the dozen freewheel tools I own just isn't enough. Lots of grease and patience is required. Its really not that difficult. But not recommended either. And needless to say, you are not going to do a very good job cleaning out the cup on that side.....Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
what I want to know is 1 why didn't Tom take the FW off first ( and no one seems to have addressed this) and two how in the world is he getting the bearings back into the drive side race anyway?
Homebrew01
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Post #6Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
what I want to know is 1 why didn't Tom take the FW off first ( and no one seems to have addressed this) and two how in the world is he getting the bearings back into the drive side race anyway?
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Glennfordx4
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When I was a young teen I had been replacing the front end on my motorcycle/dirtbike when a bunch of friends were going for a all day trail ride and I wanted to join them and I soon started to put my bike back together when I realized that I had no grease anywhere. My biggest dilemma wasn't that I needed to have some form of lubricant for the bearings it was finding away to make the bearings stick upside down so I could put the triple tree back in and then it came to me Peanut Butter! ( don't laugh it worked,well sort of) After half the day and about 35 miles from home the steering was hard and it tended to lock from side to side when turned.
I was riding in last place trying to keep up the best that I could when I soon found myself alone and I made a last ditch effort to catch up, had to hit at least 50mph down a straight away into a left hand turn and found myself slamming into a deep rain rut because I couldn't straighten the front end out. When I woke up my friends were all around me just staring as they thought I was dead my bike was 25 feet in one direction and my seat was 25 feet in another with my pocket comb sitting right on top of it. They all had a good laugh at my expense when I told them what I used to put the front end back on ,I was able to limp the bike and myself back home when I realized that I now needed another front end because my new one was very bent in fact worse then the one I just removed.
I was riding in last place trying to keep up the best that I could when I soon found myself alone and I made a last ditch effort to catch up, had to hit at least 50mph down a straight away into a left hand turn and found myself slamming into a deep rain rut because I couldn't straighten the front end out. When I woke up my friends were all around me just staring as they thought I was dead my bike was 25 feet in one direction and my seat was 25 feet in another with my pocket comb sitting right on top of it. They all had a good laugh at my expense when I told them what I used to put the front end back on ,I was able to limp the bike and myself back home when I realized that I now needed another front end because my new one was very bent in fact worse then the one I just removed.
creaky old bones
Saturday morning update....went and got some marine grease at WM, big stick of it for a grease gun was $4 and change, oughta last forever.
I noticed some folks were asking why I didn't remove the freewheel.....well, turns out I misspoke. It's apparently not a freewheel. It's a 7speed 13-28 cassette. The hub is labled Exage but i've been browsing Sheldon Brown's website off an on this morning - it has the characteristic bulge on the cassette side that gives it away. I guess that could be good news or bad news?
Alas, I need cone wrenches now - taking the cones off without is one thing but getting them on and properly adjusted, quite another.
So, cone nuts, 2 chain whips since it's apparently a Uniglide cassette per Sheldon's site, lessee whadday I need for the crankset/BB (refer image below)?
I got a cheap chain tool at WM, no great shakes but it'll do. More wire brushes. Mothers mag polish, 2000 grit sandpaper. I'm sure I can get a buffing wheel to put on my drill (to polish the crankset). Any REALLY good reason I should keep the dork disc btw?
Any other specialty tools I should look for, now be the time to let me know
Tom
I noticed some folks were asking why I didn't remove the freewheel.....well, turns out I misspoke. It's apparently not a freewheel. It's a 7speed 13-28 cassette. The hub is labled Exage but i've been browsing Sheldon Brown's website off an on this morning - it has the characteristic bulge on the cassette side that gives it away. I guess that could be good news or bad news?
Alas, I need cone wrenches now - taking the cones off without is one thing but getting them on and properly adjusted, quite another.
So, cone nuts, 2 chain whips since it's apparently a Uniglide cassette per Sheldon's site, lessee whadday I need for the crankset/BB (refer image below)?
I got a cheap chain tool at WM, no great shakes but it'll do. More wire brushes. Mothers mag polish, 2000 grit sandpaper. I'm sure I can get a buffing wheel to put on my drill (to polish the crankset). Any REALLY good reason I should keep the dork disc btw?
Any other specialty tools I should look for, now be the time to let me know

Tom
nlerner
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On yesterday's ride after listening to one of the rider's pedal squeak away for miles and realizing that no one had any lubrication in the repair kit, we began to wonder which bodily fluid would provide the most amount of lubrication. Hmm.
Neal
Neal
cudak888
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Liquid fat.Originally Posted by nlerner
On yesterday's ride after listening to one of the rider's pedal squeak away for miles and realizing that no one had any lubrication in the repair kit, we began to wonder which bodily fluid would provide the most amount of lubrication. Hmm.
-Kurt




