If I want a road bike with fenders am I basically stuck with centerpulls?
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neits
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If I want a road bike with fenders am I basically stuck with centerpulls?
I'm looking into getting myself a road bike for the colder months that I don't care about as much as a cervelo and a bianchi in the sand and salt of New England. Fenders will definitely be necessary as I'd like to take this one out in the rain also. If I want thin fenders (running 18,20,or 23c tires on 700c wheels), am I still stuck with centerpulls or are there other alternatives? I know I could go with smaller wheels and get long reach modern calipers.
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Rivendell has a a few options made by Tektro I believe.
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The 57mm reach Shimano breaks I have on my SS give me plenty of room for 28mm tires with full fenders. Depends on what the bike was designed with, reach wise.
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I'm looking into getting myself a road bike for the colder months that I don't care about as much as a cervelo and a bianchi in the sand and salt of New England. Fenders will definitely be necessary as I'd like to take this one out in the rain also. If I want thin fenders (running 18,20,or 23c tires on 700c wheels), am I still stuck with centerpulls or are there other alternatives? I know I could go with smaller wheels and get long reach modern calipers.
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If you want to keep it vintage the Dia-Compe N500 are widely available, reasonably effective, and fit around the Berthoud fenders just fine. I don't believe they'd work for a 700C conversion, though of course it would depend on the individual frame.
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My gazelle champion mondial runs 23mm tyres and 25mm SKS guards with Campag athena (2010) calipersMy Bob Jackson vigorelli runs 23mm tyres with 25mm Bluemels club specials with Campag Chorus calipers (2010) - i used to use campag athena monoplaners on both and they worked too - just standard reach calipersboth work fine
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I've got a Fuji running 27X1-1/8 tires and short reach sidepulls with fenders (Zefal 37-40mm fenders), with no problems. I just ordered a set of white Planet Bike 37mm fenders for a Nishiki with 700X23 and short-reach, and I am using similar fenders on a UO-8 fixed gear with long-reach Shimano dual-pivots.
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Well alright! Should be fine. The bike has 700x25 tires and short reach brakes, but I'm probably going to put 18 or 20s on it. Thanks gents.
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which bike are you puting fenders on? I don't think you have to ride x18 or 20 tires just to have fenders. I think if you look for a mid to late '80s steel bike like a 84-87ish Bianchi Sport SX to Brava or a Fuji Club, Tivoli, or a Raleigh something. I think looking at more of "sport" or light touring bike will give you the fender clearance you seek. don't over look touring bikes too.
I think you first need to find a bike/frame that the fenders you wish to use will fit. then look at brakes if the stock ones don't work.
I think you first need to find a bike/frame that the fenders you wish to use will fit. then look at brakes if the stock ones don't work.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#10
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I'm looking at a Centurion right now for the winter beast slot BG. Yay/nay? It has eyelets and the seller sent this for brake clearance:
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Nay. You'll shoot your eye out, kid. Not nearly enough room for mudguards.
#12
Disraeli Gears
If you all are really thinking of winter bike, then make it truly simple -- easier to clean and keep corrosion at bay.
singlespeed or internal gear hub: 1 cog
possible coaster brake: no external rear brake
larger (wider) tires, if possible for better grip on slush/ice; maybe even studded tires
fenders with mudflaps down to 1/2“ from pavement: keeps road crap off your drivetrain and feet.
Hint for the really practical: an MTB frame usually has great clearance, better brakes than sidepulls, rugged, expendable, etc. Perfect for a winter bike.
singlespeed or internal gear hub: 1 cog
possible coaster brake: no external rear brake
larger (wider) tires, if possible for better grip on slush/ice; maybe even studded tires
fenders with mudflaps down to 1/2“ from pavement: keeps road crap off your drivetrain and feet.
Hint for the really practical: an MTB frame usually has great clearance, better brakes than sidepulls, rugged, expendable, etc. Perfect for a winter bike.
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If you all are really thinking of winter bike, then make it truly simple -- easier to clean and keep corrosion at bay.
singlespeed or internal gear hub: 1 cog
possible coaster brake: no external rear brake
larger (wider) tires, if possible for better grip on slush/ice; maybe even studded tires
fenders with mudflaps down to 1/2“ from pavement: keeps road crap off your drivetrain and feet.
Hint for the really practical: an MTB frame usually has great clearance, better brakes than sidepulls, rugged, expendable, etc. Perfect for a winter bike.
singlespeed or internal gear hub: 1 cog
possible coaster brake: no external rear brake
larger (wider) tires, if possible for better grip on slush/ice; maybe even studded tires
fenders with mudflaps down to 1/2“ from pavement: keeps road crap off your drivetrain and feet.
Hint for the really practical: an MTB frame usually has great clearance, better brakes than sidepulls, rugged, expendable, etc. Perfect for a winter bike.
Right now, Im working in a Specialized Hard rock I got for $15 at the thrift store. Its in 90% plus condition, so Im getting it spiffed up as a town bike/wife bike. Kevlar comfort bike tires, a rack and an easy, more upright ride position is where I'm headed.
Since I live in South Carolina where winters here are mild, it should work out well.
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I'm looking at a Centurion right now for the winter beast slot BG. Yay/nay? It has eyelets and the seller sent this for brake clearance:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
#15
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It depends on what kind of fenders you really want. Heck, there are fenders that work just fine and fit on "race" bikes with very little tire clearance. SKS Race Blades, for example.
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I think somebody beat me to it, took a bit to dust through the cobwebs ad recall the ESGE name/brand which now seems to be SKS
the 35 or 45mm should work and don't seem to be too pricy, https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html
the 35 or 45mm should work and don't seem to be too pricy, https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#17
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I think we're also confusing my intent with this bike. I'm not riding in the snow, I'm riding in the rain, sand, salt, and maybe slush. No snow on the road.
I'd love an IGH bike with 5-8 speeds, but I'm not about to spend more than I did on my Cervelo or Bianchi on a winter bike ($500).
#18
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I think somebody beat me to it, took a bit to dust through the cobwebs ad recall the ESGE name/brand which now seems to be SKS
the 35 or 45mm should work and don't seem to be too pricy, https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html
the 35 or 45mm should work and don't seem to be too pricy, https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/fenders.html
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wow we are taxing my memory this morning.... it is a clip that goes over the little round BB bridge between the chainstays
I think Mickey is refering to the fact that you are considering using a Centurion for a "winta beata" as they say in Weymouth LOL
snow although hard to ride in (been carless during the winter on the South Shore a few times) as well as rain is not the real issue SALT is. you just need to keep the bike clean. maybe put that frame saver stuff init and seal the weld holes
I think Mickey is refering to the fact that you are considering using a Centurion for a "winta beata" as they say in Weymouth LOL
snow although hard to ride in (been carless during the winter on the South Shore a few times) as well as rain is not the real issue SALT is. you just need to keep the bike clean. maybe put that frame saver stuff init and seal the weld holes
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#20
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personally I'd want bigger tires than 25mm and fenders. There's a lot of crap on the roads in the winter.
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They need a mounting point down there so either something brazed on or a P-clip. The black clip part is a safety mechanism. If something gets jammed between the fender and the tire it will pull out at the clip part and break the fender free. Also if it's a modern brake you will need a Sheldon nut thingy to mount the front fender.
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just get this and save yourself all the hassle
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
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Ever notice how it's harder to control a rear brake slide on a beach cruiser or mountain bike than on a road bike? Even when sliding, you have grip. With super narrow tires, you have a lot less than if you were to go with 32's or so. On that centurion, 32's would probably be rubbing the brake bridges.
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Hint for the really practical: an MTB frame usually has great clearance, better brakes than sidepulls, rugged, expendable, etc. Perfect for a winter bike.
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