when it rains my SA 3sp skips
#1
30mi/day commuter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
when it rains my SA 3sp skips
when it rains my SA 3sp skips, like the actual hub gears slip... its not a huge deal but any idea what I can do about this?
#2
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
You mean the hub freewheels when you pedal forward, right?
There are a couple reasons why a hub might do this, but I wouldn't expect any of them to be related to the rain. In which gear(s) does it do this? If you've noticed it primarily in 2 and 3, it's probably a cable adjustment problem. So maybe the rain is lubricating the indicator chain or the shift cable and allowing the return spring to pull it a little farther than usual, thus throwing the cable out of adjustment? Try this: (1) oil the indicator chain, (2) manipulate it a bit to work the oil in to where it's needed, and (3) readjust the cable.
Just a guess... if that doesn't do it, maybe someone else will have an idea. Good luck!
There are a couple reasons why a hub might do this, but I wouldn't expect any of them to be related to the rain. In which gear(s) does it do this? If you've noticed it primarily in 2 and 3, it's probably a cable adjustment problem. So maybe the rain is lubricating the indicator chain or the shift cable and allowing the return spring to pull it a little farther than usual, thus throwing the cable out of adjustment? Try this: (1) oil the indicator chain, (2) manipulate it a bit to work the oil in to where it's needed, and (3) readjust the cable.
Just a guess... if that doesn't do it, maybe someone else will have an idea. Good luck!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Does it skip thru the whole ride, or just mostly at the beginning of the ride? Does it actually start when it rains, or do you just mean on rainy days it tends to skip?
I would hazard a guess that your hub is gummed up with thick oil and cold weather has the pawls sticking. A good couple of rinses with WD40, then some sewing machine oil (or anything 20W) would be my first step. But then, that would be my first step no matter what the problem was...
I would hazard a guess that your hub is gummed up with thick oil and cold weather has the pawls sticking. A good couple of rinses with WD40, then some sewing machine oil (or anything 20W) would be my first step. But then, that would be my first step no matter what the problem was...
Last edited by sciencemonster; 10-14-10 at 08:38 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,153
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3806 Post(s)
Liked 6,674 Times
in
2,607 Posts
Time to move to the desert?
Neal
Neal
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 904
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Skipping in the rain is fun, haven't done it in years, rain the afternoon, shall give it a try. Thanks for the idea
^^^^^^^^^^
What he said.
I would hazard a guess that your hub is gummed up with thick oil and cold weather has the pawls sticking.
What he said.
#7
30mi/day commuter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would hazard a guess that your hub is gummed up with thick oil and cold weather has the pawls sticking. A good couple of rinses with WD40, then some sewing machine oil (or anything 20W) would be my first step. But then, that would be my first step no matter what the problem was...
And yeah ill try those fixes both of you mentioned.
#8
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
It would be a bad idea to put a bunch of WD40 in a hub and then let it sit there, unridden, for many years. The solvent would dry up, leaving the rest drying up as a gluey gooey mass. But it would be okay to put a bit in there and then ride it for a while. How much do you use this hub, and how long have you been using it? If it's an old hub you've only started using recently, then a little WD40 (or other solvent) is a fine idea. If you've already been riding this hub for a good while, and this problem has only just begun, then regular oil is probably better.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
WD40 is not a solvent. It is a very light machine oil and wax in a handy spray can. You are not lubricating with the WD40 - you just use it to work all the old crap loose. Spray half a can in there, ride around the block, then drain it all out. Repeat.
THEN, lubricate with the oil. You could use a solvent or degreaser, but that seems a little harsh. WD40 works nice, it only has a little wax, and it's got a handy straw to fit in the filler hole. I would never put solvent in a hub, but that's just me.
People diss WD40 for a variety of reasons, but it is actually a very handy tool. Spray in on the innards of your vintage bike lights and it will keep them from rusting. Spray it on a rag and wipe your dull old paint, and you've got a nice polished bike. Spray it on a mess, and it loosens the mess without nasty chemicals. It's just a terrible lubricant, but then, it was never designed to be a lubricant.
THEN, lubricate with the oil. You could use a solvent or degreaser, but that seems a little harsh. WD40 works nice, it only has a little wax, and it's got a handy straw to fit in the filler hole. I would never put solvent in a hub, but that's just me.
People diss WD40 for a variety of reasons, but it is actually a very handy tool. Spray in on the innards of your vintage bike lights and it will keep them from rusting. Spray it on a rag and wipe your dull old paint, and you've got a nice polished bike. Spray it on a mess, and it loosens the mess without nasty chemicals. It's just a terrible lubricant, but then, it was never designed to be a lubricant.
Last edited by sciencemonster; 10-14-10 at 11:03 AM.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Light machine oil = sewing machine oil = 20W. It's what you should use when you feel like using 3-in-1. For small motors, old mechanisms like projectors or kitchen appliances...just about anything. I don't know about nylon gears and all this newfangled disposable crap they make now, but for old stuff, you can't go wrong.
Last edited by sciencemonster; 10-14-10 at 11:08 AM.
#11
30mi/day commuter
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 797
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ive been riding this hub for about 6 months daily, but its always been a little ... strange (its old but was new to me). I figured I would wait until winter and open it up to clean it... but i guess i could use WD40 if its widely recommended.
From wikipedia:
From wikipedia:
WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented in order to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[2] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
- 50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
- 25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
- 15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
- 10-%: Inert ingredients
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,218
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Learn something new every day - I hate that. The mineral spirits would evaporate away in a few minutes - I think it cutting or diluting your lube in the future is a non-issue - it's in there to cut the mineral oil so it will spray. Also, most of whatever you put in an AW hub leaks out the seams - it makes a big mess when you flush one out. You might want to not use your brakes until you clean whatever you use from your rim, or just clean your pads afterwards.
Still, that would explain why it does such a good job cleaning!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits
Interesting - it's used mixed with cutting oil for thread cutting.
I use a big can of that, too, to clean when I take stuff apart.
Still, that would explain why it does such a good job cleaning!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits
Interesting - it's used mixed with cutting oil for thread cutting.
I use a big can of that, too, to clean when I take stuff apart.
Last edited by sciencemonster; 10-14-10 at 12:31 PM.
#13
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,608
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1660 Post(s)
Liked 1,814 Times
in
1,054 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scheherezade
Bicycle Mechanics
6
12-11-11 05:14 PM