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UNIVEGA road bike

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UNIVEGA road bike

Old 10-22-10, 10:46 AM
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lowlux
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UNIVEGA road bike

wants $249 but willing to take 200.... what you think?

The bike is a 54 cm frame. It offers 3x6=18 speeds. The brakes and shifting are working and the bike is in pretty much in its first day condition with no rust whatsoever.
All the bikes parts are original and the bike was made in Japan. The rims are araya's and are in very clean condition. The shifting is Suntour.
The only thing not perfect about the bike is the rear tire as there is a wear on one area of the tire. That is a cheap replacement and I can give you a break on price to help you cover that.
Let me know if you would like to come and see the bike








[URL=http://img51.imageshack.us/my.php?image=yarisbiciklo008.jpg]
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Old 10-22-10, 10:46 AM
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Old 10-22-10, 10:52 AM
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200 and a break because of the worn tire? if that means 180 i'd go for it.

Its very similar to a Miyata 610.
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Old 10-22-10, 10:56 AM
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+1 go for it.
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Old 10-22-10, 10:58 AM
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No he wants $200 firm... but ill try to get $180 but i did try $150.... but it may need a tune up and some heavy cleaning...

So it uses the same frame as the Miyata 610? How are the components?
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Old 10-22-10, 10:59 AM
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Check it over in person if you can and look closely at the front fork and headset. The wheel might simply not be settled into the fork completely, or could be an issue. Also if that's rust and not just gunk on the bottom headset cup (edited, was "race") it might be an indicator of other issues. It also depends greatly on where you are located and how well you like it, and if it fits you well. Around my region it would be overpriced, but 60 miles south it is probably about right if everything checks out.


Last edited by treebound; 10-22-10 at 11:13 AM. Reason: wrong word
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Old 10-22-10, 11:03 AM
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headset? is that the rusty looking thing above the fork? how would i know if its messed up?

How would it be mess up? fork bent?
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Old 10-22-10, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
headset? is that the rusty looking thing above the fork? how would i know if its messed up?

..
That's the lower race. If it is not gunk and rusted, you may want to pass, but it's best to see it in person.

Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
How would it be mess up? fork bent?
Yes. Ride it and see for yourself.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:16 AM
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Looks like gunk.... whats a race?

He is 31 miles from here.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:17 AM
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does the cog or chain look rusted? it kind does to me?
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Old 10-22-10, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
does the cog or chain look rusted? it kind does to me?
^ Those are expendables anyway.

Paint is numero uno. Chrome, numero dos- only because it generally cleans up if not too badly rusted.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
Looks like gunk.... whats a race?

He is 31 miles from here.
the races are inside the headset, its the channel the bearings roll on/in. As long as the fork feels like its turning side to side smoothly the races are probably fine.
To me that looks like surface rust on the chrome of the headset. Should clean up with Scotchbrite.
What you want to be concerned about would be bubbling paint on the frame. That indicates rust underneath. From what I can see from the headtube shot it looks easy enough to clean up.

It uses basically the same frame as an early 80's miyata 610, except i'm not sure if the 610 ever had triple butted tubes. Just like the 610 its a non-Cr-Mo fork. Magnalight is Miyata's name for their equivalent of Hi-Ten tubing, but its lighter than typical gaspipe. Components are Mountech which is decent but I'd prefer some Cyclone GT.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:23 AM
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If it is a bike for you to ride and it fits, I would go for it. If the plan is to resell, then it is a little high.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:24 AM
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Without seeing the bike in person it is impossible to know if the wheel isn't inserted fully into the fork ends making the wheel look offcenter in the pic, or if one or both of the fork legs are bent, or if the wheel is bent/warped and the pic just happens to have been taken with the wobbled section between the forks.

The chrome looking portion is the lower headset cup (I typo'd before) which is pressed into the head tube. Experience is the best teacher for knowing if something might be messed up or if it just needs fresh grease and adjustment or replacement. To me it looks like the bike "might" be in original condition, as in someone bought it new and never changed anything on it over the years except for maybe tires and tubes and maybe brake pads. The only way to know for certain before buying it is to remove the seatpost and looking down inside the seat tube, and also removing the handlebar stem and looking down inside the headtube. And while those parts are off you might want to turn the bike upside down to see if any water drains out (I did this to a bike I bought once and about two cups of rusty water flowed out of the seat tube, that one took a bit of work to clean/fix up).

Spend some time on the ParkTool and SheldonBrown websites to get more familiar with bike components and how to repair them, it will help you to know what to look for.

To me, if I were to get the above bike, I'd plan on having to give it a complete overhaul and rebuild. But there is no way to know up front if you'll need to replace bearings and such until you get things dismantled and cleaned up. Most of the bikes I work on simply need cleaning and fresh grease since most people put very few miles on their bikes, most still have their original tires on them regardless of how old the bike happens to be, so apart from corrosion the bearings/races/cups are rarely worn out in most cases.

Hope this helps some. It might very well be a nice bike that just needs some soap and water, or it might need more attention than that, only way to know for certain is to look at it in person and see how things look and feel.

edit:
click here: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eadset-service

They are calling the cup a race as well, but I tend to call the male portion a race (where the bearings run outside of the surface) and the female portion a cup (where the bearings run inside of the surface area). Helps me to differentiate what I'm talking about. Some of us here do our own work, some take portions of a job into a shop to use the shop's tools where more expensive tools are required.

Last edited by treebound; 10-22-10 at 11:33 AM. Reason: added link
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Old 10-22-10, 11:35 AM
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I read at one point miyata made these UNIVEGA bikes... any ideal what the stand over height would be?

Miyata 6xx : A quality touring model, one step down from the 1000, with slightly different frame geometry and lower level components. Mid 1980's 610's have triple-butted splined Chromoly frame tubing, an unusually high quality tubing and construction for its price level. This bike is slightly lighter in weight than Trek 520/720 touring bikes, but of similar quality.
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Old 10-22-10, 11:56 AM
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Hard to tell what the standover would be, I'd guess 30ish inches. I kinda doubt its a 54cm though, it looks more like a 56/57 to me.
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Old 10-22-10, 12:27 PM
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My Sportour measures about 56cm center to center on the seat tube and has about a 32" standover on 700c wheels and commuter tires, as a visual comparison check.



Add a few inches of standover for the bricks.
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Old 10-22-10, 02:11 PM
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how do you measure a bike in cm?
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Old 10-22-10, 02:19 PM
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are the rims 27"? or 700cc?
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Old 10-22-10, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
how do you measure a bike in cm?
same way you measure it in inches. With a Measuring Tape.

Whether its inches or CM (I use google to convert) you generally measure the seat tube from the center of the cranks to the middle of the spot where the top tube intersects the seat tube. Top tube is measured from the Center of the headtube to the Center of the seat tube.

Check the sidewall on the tires to get the size. Earlier models are 27" but later ones are 700c.
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Old 10-22-10, 02:50 PM
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How much would it cost to ship a bicycle 40 miles?

No one will allow me to use there car......
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Old 10-22-10, 02:53 PM
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Yep, that's one of the good ones; mid-80's touring bike made by Miyata, very similar to the 610. I'd guess 1985, but the serial number would tell you more. If it were my size, I'd go $200, but I'd replace the rear derailleur- the mountech rear der's were notoriously fragile. Some cleaning and some rust removal on the chrome parts and you'd have a pretty good vintage tourer.
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Old 10-22-10, 02:55 PM
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shipping would be expensive. $35+ packaging at least I'd think....The bigger issue is that you run a risk of the frame getting damaged in transit, especially if the seller doesn't pack it well. Plus you'd have to rely on the seller to want to pack it, and trust him to pack it properly.

Take a cab or a bus and ride it home. Bring a can of spray lube with you in case anything needs lubin' on the ride home
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Old 10-22-10, 02:57 PM
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nevermind
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Old 10-22-10, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lowlux View Post
nevermind
Does that mean the seller sold the bike to someone else?

For shipping it, 40 miles isn't worth it. Bum a ride from someone or see if the seller is willing to meet you part way or deliver the bike to you for gas costs. I know that I've delivered bikes up to 30+ miles away if the buyer is carfree or if I'm going to be down their way. Or post where you're located and see if anyone here is in the region and willing to help, offer to buy them a soda or coffee or lunch in exchange for the ride.
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