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Oxacylic acid - trade name?

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Oxacylic acid - trade name?

Old 10-23-10, 11:29 AM
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Drillium Dude 
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Oxacylic acid - trade name?

Just received a kinda-rusty early pair of Campy NR pedals, the kind with the toestrap loop. I want to removed the rust, but need the Oxacylic acid everyone on this Forum refers to. I want to hit up my local Home Depot and it would help if I could ask for a trade name to speed the process.

Additionally, is there anything to worry about regarding the acid pitting the alloy of the pedal bodies? This might be a delicate operation, but I hope highly worth the effort in the end.

Thanks!
DD
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Old 10-23-10, 11:31 AM
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Wood bleach is the most common concentrate I believe. My local Ace had a small container for 5 bucks. I think it also comes dilluted into other products as well.
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Old 10-23-10, 11:46 AM
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Savogran wood bleach...here it is at Ace Hardware in a case quantity, enough to do the entire neighborhood:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...LAID=560517603
I'd keep it off alloy, so might not be the product to use for a pedal with both alloy and steel riveted together.
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Old 10-23-10, 11:56 AM
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Yes, wood bleach. I've tossed pedals in, it will oxidize the aluminum but will come off with steel wool. I wouldn't leave them for days however, overnight maybe.
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Old 10-23-10, 12:38 PM
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Dbakl: so it would be okay to soak them? I mean, I can clean up the aluminum and then polish; that's no problem. I just don't want to take any chances of pitting them.

I'm off to pick up some Savogran wood bleach - ta!

DD
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Old 10-23-10, 12:42 PM
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I would never use OA on a Campagnolo pedal. WD-40 and a brass brush would be MUCH better.

OA is also used to etch aluminum.
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Old 10-23-10, 12:44 PM
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They might pit if you leave too long, but I recently threw in 2 pair and had no troubles. Of course, you'll need to regrease...

I keep a 5 gallon bucket with wood bleach and water and throw things in, checking occasionally until they look good.
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Old 10-23-10, 04:05 PM
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You absolutely do not need OA for a Campy steel pedal. That's high quality chrome and it will either clean up with a brass brush and 0000 steel wool or not. If not OA, is not going to anything but help the loose stuff flake off and leave bare metal.

I've rebuilt lots of these peds and they almost always come out looking great with just elbow grease. If not there's no chrome there left to clean.
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Old 10-23-10, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragooch View Post
You absolutely do not need OA for a Campy steel pedal. That's high quality chrome and it will either clean up with a brass brush and 0000 steel wool or not. If not OA, is not going to anything but help the loose stuff flake off and leave bare metal.

I've rebuilt lots of these peds and they almost always come out looking great with just elbow grease. If not there's no chrome there left to clean.
Lucky I checked this post one more time before leaving for Ace...

You and OFG were right: I purchased the OA (other stuff I can use it for) and a brass brush. Just got done with the pedals and the chrome looks nearly brand new utilizing the WD-40 and brush combination. Thanks!

Wish I'd taken some before and after shots. Time to mount my "new" Campy pedals!

Thanks for all the input/advice, friends

DD
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Old 10-23-10, 04:47 PM
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It's oxalic acid. You added some extra letters.
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Old 10-23-10, 04:54 PM
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Indeed I did - but now I have a jar of it in front of me and will avoid that mistake in future
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Old 10-23-10, 04:57 PM
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By the way, if anyone doesn't have a local source of supply, I've recently dealt with ronsrocks on eBay. Price is good ($11.98 for 3lbs, if my memory is correct), delivery was fast (less than half a week), and he appear to be very professional. I plan on using him in the future.
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Old 10-23-10, 05:53 PM
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Any woodworking store has it. A decent pharmacy can order it. It's very inexpensive. It's also taking a sledge hammer to a job a tack hammer could do easily.

I would not use it except for cheap flippers, like a trailer load of 60's- 70's Schwinn's. Never on high end parts, unless you have experience and know exactly what the outcome will be. A brass brush and a lubricant/polish is always a better plan of attack on anything worthwhile.
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Old 10-23-10, 11:03 PM
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If you're looking for a lower strength solution, Barkeeper's Friend is probably available at your local grocery store (it's available at Dominick's in Chicago). It's pretty good if you want to make a paste to apply for a minute or two before rinsing. Wood bleach is more concentrated and better for soaking.
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Old 10-23-10, 11:10 PM
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My local Miller Paint store has it in chrystal form for $8, enough to last two life times.
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