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Changing Sturmey Archer AW Cogs

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Changing Sturmey Archer AW Cogs

Old 10-28-10, 08:13 PM
  #26  
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Like I said, there's no reason to change if your chainline is straight. Your sprocket is dished to the inside with the spacer on the outside. Your new sprocket should go on the same way.

The chrome Shimano sprockets are very nice. Mine stays clean, but I have a new hub and they don't leak at all because they don't contain oil.

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Old 10-28-10, 08:23 PM
  #27  
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thats a pretty picture. What bike is that?
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Old 10-28-10, 09:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
Like I said, there's no reason to change if your chainline is straight.
That's obvious. The chain line isn't quite perfect, but it doesn't need to be any better than it is. I ordered a 21T, 22T and 23T. All 1/8", dished and chrome. The UBS rep said the chrome plating on them is actually pretty nice.
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Old 10-29-10, 06:20 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox View Post
thats a pretty picture. What bike is that?
It's a conversion from a derailer bike. It's a '59 Carlton with a '73 Raleigh Competition fork

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Old 10-29-10, 07:29 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
Originally Posted by Zaphod Beeblebrox View Post
You should see rhm's 3 speed, 2 cog set up. Apparently you can fit two of those dished cogs on there if you set it so one's dished to the inside and the other is dished outside. Then a rear derailleur to change between the 2 rear cogs. Picture like a 22 and a 18
I don't think you could have that large a difference. You'd probably have to shorten the chain to go from 22 to 18.
Correct. With an AW, two cogs with a three tooth difference is ideal. I'm running a 20 and 23, which is pretty nice.
With an FW or S5 you'd want the difference in the cogs to be two teeth.
In fact, I just got an S5 off ebay, complete with bell crank, and am sorely tempted to put that in the AW's shell... but I should ride the current setup a bit more before changing anything.
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Old 10-29-10, 07:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by tatfiend View Post
I have always personally felt that the 3 speed hubs should be geared so that third is the normal cruising gear rather than second. It may be less efficient but it gives a more useful low gear for climbing and on the downhills you get to spin or just coast for a while.
I am in violent agreement with this. It's better to run out of spin going downhill than not having a gear low enough for climbing. I hardly ever use 3rd gear on a 3-speed. When I eventually get my Rudge on the road, I'm going to gear it super-low. 24t sprockets are available though expensive.
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Old 10-29-10, 08:01 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I am in violent agreement with this.
I don't think you are, Tom. You are both in favor of lower gears.
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Old 10-29-10, 08:14 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rhm View Post
Correct. With an AW, two cogs with a three tooth difference is ideal. I'm running a 20 and 23, which is pretty nice.
With an FW or S5 you'd want the difference in the cogs to be two teeth.
In fact, I just got an S5 off ebay, complete with bell crank, and am sorely tempted to put that in the AW's shell... but I should ride the current setup a bit more before changing anything.
I have an S5 and I love it. Mine is the S5-2 without the bellcrank. One of these days I'll try a second cog.
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Old 10-29-10, 08:18 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
It's better to run out of spin going downhill than not having a gear low enough for climbing. I hardly ever use 3rd gear on a 3-speed.
While I also geared my 3 speeds lower, I don't mind getting off and walking every now and then. It adds to the charm of a three speed for me.
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Old 10-29-10, 09:32 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
That's a pre-restoration photo. I wasn't raised in a barn!
But was your bike found in one?

I don't have a rear derailer, but I have both the original 18T cog and the 21T cog on my Raleigh, so I could change the gearing by loosening the axle nuts, moving the chain over, and resetting the rear wheel. The Outer 18T cog is visible in this view:



Here in relatively flat St. Paul, I thought I may put it back to the 18T cog, but I've decided I like it with the 21T cog, so next time I take the rear wheel out I may set it up again with just the 21T.

I also got an S5 hub on eBay, so I'm trying to figure the best way to set that up with this bike.
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Old 10-29-10, 09:35 AM
  #36  
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I put a 21t on my S-5, made the bike much more delightful in my putter around town use of it. The chrome shimano worked just fine.
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Old 10-29-10, 02:16 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I am in violent agreement with this. It's better to run out of spin going downhill than not having a gear low enough for climbing. I hardly ever use 3rd gear on a 3-speed. When I eventually get my Rudge on the road, I'm going to gear it super-low. 24t sprockets are available though expensive.
Bikesmith Design imports the 24 tooth sprockets which are SRAM and will work with 3/32" or 1/8" chains. Relatively expensive as Bikesmith is getting them from a European dealer rather than a distributor. Not sure if again available but he also has imported some 26 tooth SA compatible custom machined sprockets for 1/8" chain. The first test batch sold out very quickly. I have one in the sprocket collection.
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Old 10-29-10, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tatfiend View Post
Bikesmith Design imports the 24 tooth sprockets which are SRAM and will work with 3/32" or 1/8" chains. Relatively expensive as Bikesmith is getting them from a European dealer rather than a distributor. Not sure if again available but he also has imported some 26 tooth SA compatible custom machined sprockets for 1/8" chain. The first test batch sold out very quickly. I have one in the sprocket collection.
Shimano cassette cogs also work with a bit of modification with a dremel tool. I got a free 24 tooth cog from my LBS (he had a big box of outdated stuff that he let me go through) and dremeled off the excess tabs so that it fit my AW hub.
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Old 11-05-12, 09:34 PM
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Will Bikesmith Design's 24T fit a Sturmey Archer AW without adjustment?
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Old 11-05-12, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums View Post
Will Bikesmith Design's 24T fit a Sturmey Archer AW without adjustment?
You will need to space it just as the previous cog. Most SA hubs have two spacers, with one on each side of the cog, and you can space them as you wish.
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Old 11-06-12, 10:44 AM
  #41  
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Thanks, Photogravity... I'm debating now whether to go 22T or 24T.
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Old 11-06-12, 02:18 PM
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can you use a cog from a single speed coaster
bike
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Old 11-06-12, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Elad63 View Post
can you use a cog from a single speed coaster
bike
Probably. Most SA hubs need a cog with 3 tabs:



If it has those tabs, it should fit.
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Old 11-06-12, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Elad63 View Post
can you use a cog from a single speed coaster
bike
Yes.
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Old 12-27-12, 01:26 PM
  #45  
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Will necessitate Chain Change?

Thanks for all this.
If I go from a Sturmey AW rear 18 to a 22, I fear my chain will be too short. The axle is at the middle of the dropout now. (I've done this conversion to a Sachs Torpedo and loved it; but ended up having to buy a longer chain.) My very original '69 Robin Hood's original chain is in good shape. Could I keep that chain with a 22 rear cog or maybe with a 21? Or will it be too short with both 22 and 21?

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Old 12-27-12, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RobHalligan View Post
Thanks for all this.
If I go from a Sturmey AW rear 18 to a 22, I fear my chain will be too short. The axel is at the middle of the dropout now. (I've done this conversion to a Sachs Torpedo and loved it; but ended up having to buy a longer chain.) My very original '69 Robin Hood's original chain is in good shape. Could I keep that chain with a 22 rear cog or maybe with a 21? Or will it be too short with both 22 and 21?
Since you are already in the middle of the DO, going to a 22t will bring your chain forward by 1", likely making it too short. Going to a 21t will bring the chain forward by 3/4", also likely to be too short. I would try each cog on the bicycle first and then if the chain is too short, I'd just replace the chain.
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Old 12-27-12, 03:23 PM
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Thank you for your the benefit of your experience and for your very precise reply. I trust your assessment.
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Old 12-27-12, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by gna View Post
...At first it seemed a bit too easy, but I like it now....
Yes, that's why I gear all my bikes low. As you age, it gradually becomes just right--kind of like the old system of buying your kids' clothes a little too big so they could "grow into them (does anyone still do that? Probably not). But in reverse--you sort of shrink down to your low gearing.
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Old 12-27-12, 11:01 PM
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St Sheldon says to gear it for 3rd gear to be your normal flat ground cruising gear, something around 74 gear inches. Then you have a gear for steep hills and one gear for little hills and just coast down the hills as you will spin out 3rd gear. You can only go so fast on an upright bike anyway.
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Old 12-28-12, 12:03 AM
  #50  
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Cog doesn't need to be S&A, as long as there are three tabs on the inside hole it'll work. Dishing issues are worked out with spacer placement.

Hilly Portland is a bit of a task with the 18 tooth ring, so I swapped to a 20. Nice thing about 20 is that you don't have to replace the chain, just have to readjust your shifting cable to pick up the slack.

I do have to admit that I'm thinking of going to a 22. With the 20 I cruise both 2nd and third, favoring second most the time. But the longer I ride this bike the more I like the idea of 3rd being the cruising gear, and having two climbing gears. I've only got a couple of hills that I sometimes walk (depending on how I'm feeling at the time) with the current set up. And really the only time I out peddle the bike is when I'd normally be coasting down a hill anyway. And like mentioned above, with steel rims too fast can be a bad thing considering it's been our 4th or 5th wettest year on record this year.

And pay no mind to the flatlanders, if you've got hills you've gotta upgrade the rear cog.
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