Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

What Would You Do If This Was Your Bike??

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

What Would You Do If This Was Your Bike??

Old 12-17-10, 04:40 PM
  #1  
tsappenfield
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 430

Bikes: 2008 Seven Axiom Steel, 1984 Colnago Nuovo Mexico, 2008 Cervelo P2C, 2000 Trek Multitrack 7200

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What Would You Do If This Was Your Bike??

I've had some other posts about this 1959 Raleigh Tourist I've been restoring. What a mess. It wasn't a well-cared for bike by any stretch of the imagination. Here's the current problem. The front mud guard is really rusted. (See attachments.) I've taken most of it down to bare metal and you can see all of the pitting, etc. What the pictures don't show is that the rust has gone all the way through at two points around the bracket. I need advice as to what to do from here.

TSapp
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
DSCN1445.jpg (97.4 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg
DSCN1444.jpg (98.5 KB, 51 views)
tsappenfield is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 04:45 PM
  #2  
shorthanded
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: frederick, md
Posts: 207
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i'd probably order a new set of walds or some stainless VO fenders and live with the mod.
shorthanded is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 04:47 PM
  #3  
rhenning
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,590
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 357 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 74 Times in 53 Posts
You have two options. Find a new or better original fender or make the bike fenderless. Roger
rhenning is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 04:58 PM
  #4  
Saintly Loser
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brooklyn, New York
Posts: 541

Bikes: Nothing special, but it works.

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm in the same boat. Try Yellow Jersey (https://www.yellowjersey.org/eastbits.html). They sell Eastmann roadsters and parts. Supposedly they're completely interchangeable with Raleigh parts. And they list fenders ("mudguards") on their site.
Saintly Loser is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 05:21 PM
  #5  
sced
South Carolina Ed
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Greer, SC
Posts: 3,687

Bikes: Holdsworth Super Mistral Fastback, Macario Pro, Ciocc San Cristobal, Viner Nemo, Cyfac Le Mythique, Giant TCR, Tommasso Mondial, Cyfac Etoile

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Liked 105 Times in 57 Posts
fill em, sand em, then paint em
sced is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 05:24 PM
  #6  
cycleheimer
Senior Member
 
cycleheimer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York Metro Area
Posts: 4,105

Bikes: '14 Insight 2, '95 Trek 720 Multi-Track, '94 Cannondale M600; '92 Raleigh Dash Max; '86 Panasonic DX 5000, '81 Fuji S12S, '81 Fuji Royale; '78 Bridgestone Diamond Touring, '78 Motobecane Grand Touring, plus many more!

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by sced View Post
fill em, sand em, then paint em
Try to find a primer that may help cover up the imperfections.
cycleheimer is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 05:29 PM
  #7  
folderfan550
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've got the same problem with the rear mudguard from a DL-1 I'm working on. Have thought of looking into the ones from Yellow Jersey, but really only need a rear as the front is in passable condition. Guess there's always Bondo!

Last edited by folderfan550; 12-17-10 at 05:30 PM. Reason: typo
folderfan550 is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 06:41 PM
  #8  
sailorbenjamin 
26 tpi nut.
 
sailorbenjamin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Rhode Island (an obscure suburb of Connecticut)
Posts: 5,703

Bikes: one of each

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
You could go fenderless, like me, or you could buy my ugly old fenders cause they're probably a little better than yours.
__________________
I have spoken.
sailorbenjamin is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 07:43 PM
  #9  
alr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 379

Bikes: Nishiki Olympic 12 Mixte, Raleigh DL-1 lady

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
+1 on yellow jersey. I am thinking of getting some to replace my rusty ones. I am too lazy to sand, repaint, etc. mine are all bent up too. if anyone actually get some of these fenders, they should report back about how interchangeable they really are.
alr is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 08:05 PM
  #10  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 8,678

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1722 Post(s)
Liked 564 Times in 381 Posts
Tsapp,

If it was my bike's mud guard, I would ( as you have done already ) strip and sand it down then I would stabilize the metal with some good rust converter. Afterward,I would paint it the very best I could in whatever colour it needs to be. Put some period decals on it and put them back on the bike. They are original and they still are gonna' do what they were ment to do.

Same goes for the rest of the bikes metal. Replace what is broke.

Good luck with the project ! 3ss
3speedslow is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 10:12 PM
  #11  
Wogster
Senior Member
 
Wogster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,933

Bikes: Norco Bushpilot (out of commission), Raleigh Delta

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rhenning View Post
You have two options. Find a new or better original fender or make the bike fenderless. Roger
Actually there are 3 options,

1) replace the fenders
2) remove the fenders
3) Repair the fender,

The best choice depends on what your doing with the rest of the bike, if your doing a complete tear down, strip, paint, rebuild then you might want to replace the fenders, if your tearing it down, changing a bunch stuff (like turning it into a racing bike) then you might want to just take them off. If the bike is going to be fixed up, but your happy with it not perfect, then use something like navel jelly to stabilize what's there, use filler to fix any holes then sand and paint.
Wogster is offline  
Old 12-17-10, 10:23 PM
  #12  
alr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 379

Bikes: Nishiki Olympic 12 Mixte, Raleigh DL-1 lady

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by folderfan550 View Post
I've got the same problem with the rear mudguard from a DL-1 I'm working on. Have thought of looking into the ones from Yellow Jersey, but really only need a rear as the front is in passable condition. Guess there's always Bondo!
Hmm. It turns out my rear fender is passable (not bent, not so much rust), but my front one is a mess-- maybe we could share a new pair?
alr is offline  
Old 12-18-10, 01:15 AM
  #13  
folderfan550
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Illinois, USA
Posts: 109
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by alr View Post
Hmm. It turns out my rear fender is passable (not bent, not so much rust), but my front one is a mess-- maybe we could share a new pair?
That might be a good plan. I may be passing Madison, WI next month so would stop by Yellow Jersey to check out a set in person. I bought a full chaincase from them for another DL-1 and was able to install it without too much trouble.
folderfan550 is offline  
Old 12-18-10, 10:04 AM
  #14  
bobn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: South Florida
Posts: 726
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
take it to an auto body shop and see what they would charge to restore.
bobn is offline  
Old 12-18-10, 01:06 PM
  #15  
Mike Mills
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Remove the rust by soaking ion oxalic acid. Degrease and spray with clear automotive finish. Reinstall.
Mike Mills is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 06:54 AM
  #16  
tsappenfield
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 430

Bikes: 2008 Seven Axiom Steel, 1984 Colnago Nuovo Mexico, 2008 Cervelo P2C, 2000 Trek Multitrack 7200

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'm not ready to give up on this mud guard. I have nothing better to do with my spare time this winter so why not try for a fix. What exactly are we talking about by a filler? I used Bondo once to repair some rusted through steel casement windows in our house and I did a pretty good job if I say so myself. Should I go the Bondo route again, or is there some other better product to choose from? Also, what about those little pits on the visible surface of the mudguard? Can I just smear the filler over the surface, sand, and expect that the filler will stay in place? What about metal? I have zero experience with that material. Is that even something I should consider, or do I need to be a welder?

TSapp
tsappenfield is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 07:32 AM
  #17  
cycleheimer
Senior Member
 
cycleheimer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: New York Metro Area
Posts: 4,105

Bikes: '14 Insight 2, '95 Trek 720 Multi-Track, '94 Cannondale M600; '92 Raleigh Dash Max; '86 Panasonic DX 5000, '81 Fuji S12S, '81 Fuji Royale; '78 Bridgestone Diamond Touring, '78 Motobecane Grand Touring, plus many more!

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times in 53 Posts
Originally Posted by cycleheimer View Post
Try to find a primer that may help cover up the imperfections.
Something like this primer and filler may help. https://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-...nt-primer.html
cycleheimer is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 12:17 PM
  #18  
Mike Mills
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Do you want a painted finish or do you want a bare metal finish?

I don't know for sure but I would worry about using Bondo on something as flexible as a fender. I would think the edges may crack loose and you'd see a line around the perimeter of the repair.

As long as we are discussing Bondo, there is another auto body repair product, usually used in conjunction with a Bondo repair. It is thinner-bodied and comes pre-mixed in a tube (solvent based). Bondo isn't good for filling thin sections but this stuff is. It is sued for filling imperfections for which Bondo is inappropriate.

Last edited by Mike Mills; 12-19-10 at 05:20 PM.
Mike Mills is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 01:49 PM
  #19  
cooper34
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 98
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I would reinforce the bracket and reinstall them. Paint them black if needed. My basic approach is to keep original parts if possible.
cooper34 is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 03:59 PM
  #20  
tsappenfield
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 430

Bikes: 2008 Seven Axiom Steel, 1984 Colnago Nuovo Mexico, 2008 Cervelo P2C, 2000 Trek Multitrack 7200

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I eventually plan on repainting the mud guards black (rattle can approach). How do you "reinforce the bracket"?
tsappenfield is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 05:21 PM
  #21  
Mike Mills
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,929
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bondo tends to be porous and have have dimples from air bubbles. The thinner product seals the Bondo, fills the exposed air bubbles and preares the Bondo for paint.

Last edited by Mike Mills; 12-19-10 at 07:30 PM.
Mike Mills is offline  
Old 12-19-10, 07:29 PM
  #22  
mickey85
perpetually frazzled
 
mickey85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Linton, IN
Posts: 2,470

Bikes: 1977 Bridgestone Kabuki Super Speed; 1979 Raleigh Professional; 1983 Raleigh Rapide mixte; 1974 Peugeot UO-8; 1993 Univega Activa Trail; 1972 Raleigh Sports; 1967 Phillips; 1981 Schwinn World Tourist; 1976 Schwinn LeTour mixte; 1964 Western Flyer

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I'd cover it with Bondo's Glazing Spot Putty (it's red - comes in a tube), then sand it smooth. Make sure as you're sanding to keep it wet partially to show you how smooth it is (the water acts as a kind of "paint" illustrating imperfections), and partially to keep dust from building up. Then hose it with primer and two-part paint (color/clear).
mickey85 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
smontanaro
Classic and Vintage Sales
0
06-29-19 04:21 PM
spin1moretime
Hybrid Bicycles
3
06-22-14 04:11 PM
spin1moretime
Alt Bike Culture
0
06-22-14 12:42 PM
HooBikes
Classic & Vintage
27
11-14-12 05:03 PM
daisy101
Classic & Vintage
10
11-21-10 04:19 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.