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Build-a-long freewheel!!!! Photo heavy

Old 05-16-14, 08:30 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by rsg
CapeCodder or PastorBob?

Need your advice:

In CapeCodder's tutorial, it mentions using 75w-90 oil for the pawls. Why use such a heavy oil for such a small area?

And

Is grease just applied to the bearing races ONLY or, can a film of grease be applied to the pawl gears or retaining spring around the Model J freewheel that holds in the pawls?

(Side note - I got my freewheel apart, & cleaned with some gasoline, there was nothing to it at all!)
Gasoline!

I use an ultrasonic cleaner with a biodegradable concentrated degreaser designed for it. But, you could just as easily spray with WD40, wipe off excess, and finish cleaning with Dawn and hot water. I dry my parts in a convection oven set at 200F.

I use a high grade machine oil on the pivot of the pawls and wipe a thin layer on the ratchet notches. I try to keep the grease to the bearing races.
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Old 06-09-14, 12:05 PM
  #127  
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CapeCodder or PastorBob?

When I put together my freewheel I discovered that when I put on the dust covers, the freewheel binds up or is hard to spin but when the dust covers are removed the freewheel spins freely & just fine.

What is the cure for this problem so I can use & install the dust covers & washers without the freewheel binding?? Please reply back.
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Old 06-09-14, 12:25 PM
  #128  
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It is normal for there to be a slight drag from the nylon dust seals on Schwinn Model F or J freewheels, especially if you remove and reinstall them, which changes their location slightly. That drag will lessen as the the freewheel is used and the seals wear in to their new location. You could also pry the seal up a bit so it is putting less pressure on the inner freewheel body. Schwinn was one of the only specifying sealed freewheels at the time, most others ran without seals. You could leave them off, but I would recommend leaving them installed as intended as overall the extra drag is negligible.

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Old 06-09-14, 01:03 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Metacortex
It is normal for there to be a slight drag from the nylon dust seals on Schwinn Model F or J freewheels, especially if you remove and reinstall them, which changes their location slightly. That drag will lessen as the the freewheel is used and the seals wear in to their new location. You could also pry the seal up a bit so it is putting less pressure on the inner freewheel body. Schwinn was one of the only specifying sealed freewheels at the time, most others ran without seals. You could leave them off, but I would recommend leaving them installed as intended as overall the extra drag is negligible.

That's just it, It's not a slight drag I have, the freewheel binds almost completely when the outer dust cover is installed.

(I'm working on a Model J freewheel) Is there a way to loosen the freewheel more? I was beginning to think that the outer bearing was installed too tight or there was too much grease & it got in the center of the freewheel? Could this also be any cause for concern? Please reply back.
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Old 06-09-14, 01:06 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Metacortex
You could leave them off, but I would recommend leaving them installed as intended as overall the extra drag is negligible.

I agree with re-installing the dust covers as this does prevent dirt from entering the bearing surfaces.
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Old 06-09-14, 01:15 PM
  #131  
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Cape Codder, PastorBob or MetaCortex.

Another question - How tight SHOULD the outer bearing be when it is set up after greasing?

I notice a little play when the outer bearing is set just after it's a bit past hand tight. Does the outer bearing need to be set tighter than this? Please reply back.

Last edited by rsg; 06-09-14 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 06-09-14, 02:14 PM
  #132  
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Cape Codder, PastorBob or MetaCortex.

Another question - How tight SHOULD the outer bearing be when it is set up after greasing?

I notice a little play when the outer bearing is set just after it's a bit past hand tight. Does the outer bearing need to be set tighter than this? Please reply back.
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Old 06-09-14, 02:17 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by rsg
That's just it, It's not a slight drag I have, the freewheel binds almost completely when the outer dust cover is installed.

(I'm working on a Model J freewheel) Is there a way to loosen the freewheel more? I was beginning to think that the outer bearing was installed too tight or there was too much grease & it got in the center of the freewheel? Could this also be any cause for concern? Please reply back.
Cape Codder, PastorBob or MetaCortex, Please reply to above inquiries when you get the chance.

Thank you all again for your help so far. This has been a very valuable resource.
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Old 06-09-14, 03:24 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by rsg
Cape Codder, PastorBob or MetaCortex, Please reply to above inquiries when you get the chance.

Thank you all again for your help so far. This has been a very valuable resource.
Sometimes we need a little time to respond. Not on BF 100% of the time.

If you were careful to replace the original spacers between the retaining ring/bearing race and the inner body, you shouldn't have any troubles. I use a punch and hammer to tighten the retaining ring, so about as tight as you can imagine and certainly more than "hand tight."

So with that said, if you did reinstall the spacers, something else must be askew. While I've only worked on a handful of the SA freewheels with the dust covers, I never had this issue. Check the inside of your dust cover to see if there is anything rough which might be binding on the inner body. That's my only thought at the moment.

It might help to post closeup pictures of the dust cap on and off the freewheel. I take it the freewheel spins smoothly with the cover off.
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Old 06-09-14, 03:56 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
Sometimes we need a little time to respond. Not on BF 100% of the time.

If you were careful to replace the original spacers between the retaining ring/bearing race and the inner body, you shouldn't have any troubles. I use a punch and hammer to tighten the retaining ring, so about as tight as you can imagine and certainly more than "hand tight."
My spacers are in good condition & didn't need to replace them. I too also used a hammer & punch (or a tip of a phillips screwdriver) to set the bearing, but didn't know how tight would be too tight. I'm guessing there is play in the freewheel for a reason due to the dust covers spacing?
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Old 06-09-14, 03:58 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh

I take it the freewheel spins smoothly with the cover off.
You are correct. Once the outer dust cover is installed, the freewheel binds. This shouldn't be happening.
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Old 06-10-14, 04:57 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by rsg
You are correct. Once the outer dust cover is installed, the freewheel binds. This shouldn't be happening.
@rsg, I had the time to check this model last night. As I remembered the dust cover is pressure fitted into the inner diameter of the outer body. This is the same for the front and rear covers. So relative to the outer body, the cover is stationary.

Based on what you are describing, the dust cover must be warped or deformed in some way, and is binding against the inner body at the exposed shaft which doubles as the engagement point for the removal tool. You could try smoothing the inside diameter of the cover, or finding a replacement.

Or you are pressing the cover in too tightly and it is making contact with the top of the retaining ring/bearing race. In this case, just don't press it in as tightly.

Just to be certain, is this the same model freewheel we are speaking about?

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Last edited by pastorbobnlnh; 06-10-14 at 05:00 AM.
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Old 06-10-14, 11:23 AM
  #138  
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When I was a kid (long time ago) my LBS routinely rebuilt freewheels and I learned from him. I was surprised later when I found out freewheels were considered non-repairable units by some.
For 2-pawl freewheels reassembling, we used a homemade tool - an old spoke bent into an U shape, with the ends hammered flat like tweezers to hold the pawls closed.
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Old 06-10-14, 12:21 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
@rsg, I had the time to check this model last night. As I remembered the dust cover is pressure fitted into the inner diameter of the outer body. This is the same for the front and rear covers. So relative to the outer body, the cover is stationary.

Based on what you are describing, the dust cover must be warped or deformed in some way, and is binding against the inner body at the exposed shaft which doubles as the engagement point for the removal tool. You could try smoothing the inside diameter of the cover, or finding a replacement.

Or you are pressing the cover in too tightly and it is making contact with the top of the retaining ring/bearing race. In this case, just don't press it in as tightly.

Just to be certain, is this the same model freewheel we are speaking about?

Yes this is the same freewheel, (Model J) though mine comes from a 73' Schwinn Varsity with a standard 5 speed gearset.
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Old 06-10-14, 01:36 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by Reynolds
When I was a kid (long time ago) my LBS routinely rebuilt freewheels and I learned from him. I was surprised later when I found out freewheels were considered non-repairable units by some.
For 2-pawl freewheels reassembling, we used a homemade tool - an old spoke bent into an U shape, with the ends hammered flat like tweezers to hold the pawls closed.
Great idea!

On most freewheels I don't need to compress the pawls in order to reassemble other then to sometimes slip a thin knife in to compress one pawl on one side. The old Reginas, Maillards and Atoms, on the other hand require careful work using dental floss to compress. A Cyclo I worked on needed magnets (@sailorbenjamin made this suggestion) to hold the pawls in place in their mounts on the outer body. It was a real bear to put back together.
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Old 01-08-15, 05:22 PM
  #141  
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Since it is cold and snowy here, I decided to give this a go on a Suntour Winner 13-26 6-speed I bought off of epay awhile back.

I got the race loosened, and all the bearings for the back side fell out the back onto the rag I had. The inner body dropped out the back.

The race will not come out however, and is trapping the front bearings. It looks like the outer cog is keeping the race from coming out. Anyone seen this before?

I suppose I can just clean it, grease the bearings in place, and go from there, though I had thought about replacing the bearings since I have 1/8" grade-25s. They look OK though so probably no need.

The front has 31 bearings, the back 42. Seemed odd, but counted them twice.
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Old 01-08-15, 06:25 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by Pars
The front has 31 bearings, the back 42. Seemed odd, but counted them twice.
Well, 31 is odd, and 42 is even, so you're half right.
Or did you mean 31 plus 42 is odd, in which case you're quite right.
Or you mean you counted them twice, and added the totals?!! That would be even everytime, I think...
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Old 01-08-15, 08:40 PM
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I guess strange might have gotten around that...
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Old 01-09-15, 10:08 AM
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So...

No one has seen this before where the outer race and bearings would not come out without removing the outer sprocket? This is a 6 speed Winner.

I do have use of a chain whip, and could to the screw it to a piece of wood to loosen the outer cog. Not sure I really need to get it apart any further however.
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Old 01-09-15, 02:06 PM
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Build-a-long freewheel!!!! Photo heavy

I almost always remove the cogs before opening the body. But with that said, I just took apart a Winner last night and the outer race/retaining ring would come off without removing the smallest cog. Can you post a picture?
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Old 01-09-15, 07:05 PM
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Sure. Here are a couple of pics, and a link to photobucket for a few more. It is a 4-notch Winner. Sorry for the crappy iphone pics.





https://s883.photobucket.com/user/Par...er%20freewheel
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Old 01-10-15, 01:15 PM
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I went ahead and unscrewed the outer cog(s), and disassembled the cluster, laid out in order on a table. Figured I might as well since I had never done this before

The outer cogs came off as a pair; I didn't bother unscrewing them since I only had 1 chain whip. I screwed the freewheel down to a piece of wood in a vise, and had to give a few whacks with a rubber mallet to loosen.

I'll post some more pics when I get things cleaned up.
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Old 01-10-15, 02:57 PM
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Got the body parts cleaned, lubed and put back together. I probably used too much grease (Superlube).









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Old 01-10-15, 03:06 PM
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You did fine. Don't worry about too much grease. If you're worried, you could drop in some WD-40 or something else to dissolve it, but if I were doing it, I would leave it as is.
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Old 08-14-16, 11:13 PM
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Excellent tutorial. really because these old freewheels can get pricy scarce and also hard to get a clean one unless even more $$$ NOS. You got to rebuild them.
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