decal removal
 

Is it possible to remove old decals without damaging the paint? This would be for a yellow 1972 Schwinn Super Sport. The down-tube decals are looking pretty ratty, although the original paint is in good enough condition that I'd prefer to avoid repainting.

I've done the same thing. I soaked "goo gone" on a paper towel and wrapped it around the tube with the decal that needs to be removed. Then wrap the paper towel with plastic wrap for a few hours or over night. As always test the "goo gone" on some out of the way paint first.

Mutt

+1 Goo Gone has worked well for me

Nail polish remover.

Just make sure the decals are on top of the paint, not under a clear coat.

SP
Bend, OR

Depending on what type of decal it is. If it's just stick-on vinyl type decals, you can (carefully, to avoid finish damage)heat them up with a hair dryer or heat gun and peel them off, unless they're so old and are all cracked up and brittle, then a solvent like "Goo gone" should work, but it will be messy, and take time and patience. Buyt the replacements and stick them on
For clear coated over decals, you will most likely have to strip (can't see how you can just strip the clearcoat and decals without harming the paint under it) the bike, re-paint and put on the replacement decals (Ater Transfer type, I assume) and clear coat over them. Just be careful and find out what clear coat paint is comaptible sith the new decals as it could melt and shrivel them up if they aren't.

Chombi

i recall using carbon tetrachloride to remove some once a long time ago, but i bet goo gone would be easier

Carbon tetrachloride is super poisonous! :eek::eek::eek: Do not use the stuff unless you are equipped to properly do so or you will endanger yourself and anyone next to you with liver damage real quick.:twitchy:

Chombi

Personally I wouldn't bother too much with a Super Sport. Why not just ride it and let the decal wear off over time?

The best decay/beausage is accumulated, not inflicted.

For those who were as confused as I: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Beausage

I don't think I'll be using it.

I'd use it when ordering a sandwich
mmmmm....beausage with peppers and provolone ;)

Here you're looking to remove decals and I just got notification that my $150 order from VeloCals shipped today. Funny how these things work.

Glad someone posted this several hours ago. :twitchy:

Have you tried Scratch-X? I just removed a few on my Competition GS and they came right off. My replacement decals came from Cyclomondo. You have to be carefull using solvent removers, some of them will hurt you and the paint.

Mike

I just did this with some old crapped-out Columbus decals. A little hair dryer to heat it and a finger nail was all it took (though the decal was mostly shredded). A little rub with a soft cotton cloth and the paint was pristine, undamaged.

This is How To Remove Unwanted Stickers.

Hope it is a help.

With the type of decals ( silk screened type ) that are on your Schwinn it won't take much effort to remove them, you can even use a commercial cleaner like Spray Nine or Power Purple diluted down with water. I have removed older Schwinn decals by accident when using Power Purple while cleaning a bike. If you mix it right it should not bother the paint. When I had problems with it removing decals from the old Schwinns I had it mixed at one part cleaner 2/3rds water in a gal container which is strong. Test it on the paint somewhere first but when I used it it had no ill effects on the paint on my 72 baby blue SS or my 74 Suburban. This is what I first found out what happens when you try and wash a old Schwinn with one of those cleaners listed above( note paint was already in poor shape & this pic is after pulling it down from my shops attic after 12 yrs).
Glenn
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...4/P6080027.jpg

that could explain a lot about the last 25 years or so of me life; BTW, i wasn't saying it should be done, just that it was rec'd to me when i wanted to do it once, long, long ago. besides being super poisonous, it worked really wellj!!

Usually ratty decals are because they were not originally protected by a clear coat, with a clear coat, it's the clear coat that takes the damage and the decals underneath are protected somewhat, a deep scratch that goes through the clear coat and damages the decal, would need to be stripped down to the decal, the decal replaced and then the clear coat repaired.

I used to use Carbon tetrachloride(dry cleaning fluid) soaked in a cottonball in a mayonaise jar to kill bugs for my bug collection when I was a kid. I'm just fine :twitchy:

I love the smell of Carbon Tet in the morning .....

...do they even still make the stuff?

I think it is still in Brake Cleaner. I remember back in the 90's when the EPA was cracking down on underground fuel storage tank removals and wast oil tank set ups, we had bought one of the first parts cleaners that had a cleaner you could dump right in with the waste oil when it was time to change. At the same time we had a huge painting project going on in the shop painting equipment for the upcoming spring ( big rental outfit ) when we had the EPA show up along with the owner of a oil recycler we used, it turns out that the morons doing the painting were cleaning the paint guns and supplies in the parts cleaner and using brake cleaner to rinse the guns, it cost us $10.000 for the first fine and $35.000 for the second one ( yes they did it again in less then 6 months) for contaminating the oil in the recycle truck with Tetrachloride.

The printed word looks too much like sausage to me. Mmmmm. Sausage. We made ~400 pounds weekend before last.

http://gallery.me.com/justinhughes/1...12952983390001

http://gallery.me.com/justinhughes/1...12952987520001

As to the OP. Heating the decals and carefully using a new razor blade to lift up the decals is where I'd start. Being as old as they are, though, a solvent (like Goo Gone) is probably what you'll need.

...UGH. Nasty stuff indeed.