songcycle

I've researched Stronglight 49D and 49A cranksets pretty thoroughly online, including archived posts here.

Seeing as the steel version (49A) has a 23.0mm extractor thread (according to a thread here about a year ago), and that T.A. Cyclotouriste rings are compatible with 49D arms (and T.A.'s use 23.0mm extractors), is it possible that some 49Ds (alloy) were made with a 23mm thread rather than the standard, pre-1982 23.35mm Stronglight thread?

I ask because the J.A. Stein Stronglight extractor that I bought (labeled 23.3) for my 1974-ish 49D only grabs a couple of threads before binding, and I don't want to wreck an arm trying to force it. I tested a modern 22mm extractor, and it's loose. I'm considering exchanging the Stronglight tool for a T.A. tool, and I'm looking for confirmation that I'm not crazy.

Thanks!

ColonelJLloyd 

I use the Stein tool on my 23.35mm Stronglight cranks and, yes, it does feel pretty tight. I can't comment on the 49D or 49A.

unworthy1

people have scoffed and gasped, but I swear on a stack of bibles that YES, such a thing does exist and I once had it! (and, oh yeah, UFOs are REAL!!!)
I stripped a French bike down to parts and sold them off to various folks. The Stronglight cranks went to a very well-known collector who used to post frequently on the CR list.
He contacted me before I removed them to ensure that I had the proper extractor, and so would not ruin his soon-to-be goods. I assured him that I did indeed have a genuine Stronglight tool AND I was very, very familiar with its use: I had used it at least a dozen times before (actually maybe more) and always with success, never stripped a thread yet and he had nothing to fear.
But, same scenario as with you: I knew exactly how that tool should feel and act when threaded into a Stronglight crank, and I was NOT getting good fit. Since I was being extra careful not to do the slightest injury to the threads I examined them again and again for any defects (none!) and kept trying...but I did not dare try to pull the cranks using that tool. Only would screw on a couple turns at most before binding.
Finally, with nothing to lose, I tried a TA extractor...perfect fit...perfect results...no stripping or thread deformation.
I thought this was curious enough to share with the buyer (bad move)...he just about blew a gasket and said that HE would examine the cranks and if he found ANYthing amiss then the deal was off and I'd owe him a full refund (and an apology both to him and the entire world for screwing up a rare artifact).
He got the crankset and I got nary a peep of protest from him.
So: yes, Virginia, there is a Stronglight 49D Clause.

songcycle

Thanks for the excellent reinforcement, unworthy1! I'm going to go ahead and try to exchange for the Stein T.A. tool. (These tools are SO damn expensive!)

songcycle

unworthy1

personally: I'd keep that tool and but a TA, too. IMHO you can't have too many tools and I own and use both. The cheaper option is to find an older park CCP-1 that has both TA and standard 22mm threads. That's been my favorite.
Kurt has a pic of it (on the LH) compared to 2 later versions (CCP-2 and CCP-4)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43240189@N03/4352682530/
another thing you might consider: could be that yours (and mine) were just aberrations from a bad run at the factory, or it may be they are supposed to be 23.35mm and just squeaked by on the very tight end of the tolerances that day...if you do try a TA 23mm tool and think it's even a tiny bit loose, you might wrap a single turn of teflon plumbers tape on the tool and try it with that. I never had to use this trick (and can't endorse it) but others have and do...YRMV.

CMAW 

Wow, same experience here. It took me a considerable amount of time to locate the "right" extractor (seems they're extinct in Europe!) and in the end I paid more (tool + shipment to Brussels + taxes) than for the PX10 I needed it for. It fits badly, but I managed to get the Stronglight off. Thread on the crank seemed OK so the whole thing got me puzzled and left me with a considerable amount of distrust vis a vis the Stein-tool. French mondays are probably the "mondayest" of them all, but still, hard to believe that this would come from a sloppy production line.

Grand Bois

The Stein tool isn't French. It's American made.

CMAW 

Of course. I was referring to the Stronglight crank, since "a bad run at the factory" is a possible explanation for the 23 or 23,35 or inbetween problem.

randyjawa 

Where can I find the Stein tools we are talking about. I, too, have a problem Stronglight 49d crank and would like to feel comfortable using it.

unworthy1

https://www.jastein.com/
and also sold by VeloOrange, and thus distributed by Quality Bike Parts (QBP) all over the country...maybe even Canada
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...ta-cranks.html (on the Stein site he also shows Harris Cyclery and Biketoolsetc., as retailers)
People: do not fear tools! buy them, use them, hoard them if you must...tools are our friends!

unworthy1

you could borrow a TA tool from a friend. You could also try to determine the exact size with a digital caliper and pitch gauge, but I'd do a go/no-go with the tool anyday before relying on measurements.

raverson

Classic!

And welcome to the C&V neighboorhood.

JohnDThompson 

Velo-Orange has them. Not cheap, though: https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...ta-cranks.html

songcycle

Hey, good idea unworthy1. I'll save an eBay search for a CCP-1.

I saw that teflon tape trick elsewhere on the Forums, and might try that if the 23.0 seems small. (And I'll prepare myself to buy a new crankset if disaster strikes.)

** Thanks all for posting! **

gerv 

Bike tools also has the double ended 22/23mm TA tool. $48 + $11 shipping. https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=VR-393

ColonelJLloyd 

That's only a sensible purchase if one does not already own a 22mm puller.

songcycle

The Rest of the Story ...

I bought a used Park CCP-1 and found that the 23.0mm side was loose in my 49D. Retried the Stein Stronglight tool (with a judicious amount of grease) and it worked. There was a "low spot" with each rotation on the drive side, but the tool went in OK.

Anyone want to buy a lightly used Park CCP-22? ;-)

Thanks again for all of the great advice and info.

gerv 

^ I experienced the same with a Stronglight crank last week. One rotation, the Stein tool would bind.

However, after cleaning the threads with Simple Green, applying grease, saying a couple of Our Fathers, I just screwed that thing all the way in.

It doesn't appear to have harmed anything.

dbakl

I will say, when I was in college in the early 70's, I bought a TA extractor which the shop told me was compatable with Campagnolo. I used it for close to 30 years, until it cracked and I bought a Campagnolo.

So, yes, maybe, who knows?

I think I have a combo Park - Campagnolo/Stronglight, but I don't work on a lot of Stronglight/TA.

unworthy1

The only Park extractor I know of that's a 'combo" is the aforementioned CCP-1, and that's 22mm plus 23mm, which would work with Campy and most others (22mm) and TA (23mm), but not early Stronglight (23.35mm)

wildhai

Anyone seen an 23,25 extrator?

What is it for?

Salamandrine 

23.35 mm extractors are for Stronglight cranks. That is pretty obvious if you read the posts.

We used to use a VAR or Stronglight (IIRC) extractor in the old days, but you can buy a new one from JA Stein tools today.

wildhai

I came across this offer

Tretkurbelabzieher Kurbelabzieher extracteur de manivelle, extracteurs de pédale, outil manivelle , peugeot vélo vélo , stronglight des outils spéciauxAbzieher Außengewinde M22x1 Rechts 25mm tief - Motortools - Polradabzieher, Kupplungsabzieher, Spez

wildhai

wildhai

@ #3 got an ufo too.