Dealing With Sealed Bearings on Vintage Bikes
 

My interest in restoring bikes of the 70s and 80s runs into a snag when I come to sealed bearing hubs (BB too for that matter).

Everything I read says take it to a bike shop where they have the proper tools. That kind of ruins the pleasure of doing the restoration myself. Any thoughts on handling this situation. Do some of you have the "bearing press" or whatever is needed to deal with cartridge sealed bearings? On my Fuji S10S there is a bit of play in the hub bearings which appear to be sealed not cones. At the bike shop they said there was nothing they could do with it. Don't know if that was because they just did not want to or what. The wheel(s) turn nicely and there is no sound of grit or other noise. Have put on a few miles and still seems in good shape. If I come to a situation where there is definitely need for replacement what is the best way to approach it keeping in mind my philosophy of "doing it myself" and keeping costs low?

Hogwash! Usually, you can work with sealed bearings just fine. Sometimes you do need a bearing press to seat them, but most of the time they just pop in and out. On cartridge bearing hubs, it is possible that the axle nut is a little loose. You adjust it much like a cup/cone: there should be an adjuster nut (in place of the cone), and a lock nut. If that doesn't work for you, then you can replace the cartridges... they're cheap. You can use the axle to tap each one out of its socket, and you just press fit the new ones in.

I'd be very surprised if the S10S has cartridge bearings (unless the hubs/wheels were replaced.) Can you find a brand stamp on the hubs? More than likely, they're just the typical labyrinth sealed hubs that are typically touted as "sealed bearings" by the manufacturer, you won't need any special tools for those.

Despite some naysayers, I think sealed cartridge bearings on components are still generally a good thing as their very slow rates of wear fits the needs of most cyclists out there who do not want to have to regularly service/regrease loose bearings on their bikes. Yes, there is a question on how most will handle having to eventually replace the cartridges if they do not have the right tools to do it, but in most cases, I think people might look at their sealed bearing components as long interval replacement items as their wear rates are generally so long that it does not really get in the way of their cycling till that point and most just opt for replacment of the whole component.
Trick to seaeld bearing components is to try and avoid getting used one in the first place when building up a bike. Getting an NOS item will give you the benefit of the longest use you can get out of them before wear ever becomes an issue. And in the end, if you do have to replace the bearing cartridges many years later, it's not impossible and many resourceful cyclcist have succesfully extracted them and replaced them using home made tools and careful planning. I know many motorcyclists do it with their pressed in wheel bearings all the time. I don't see why it might be that much harder to do with bicycle "stuff".
My Vitus Carbone that I built up last year has NOS sealed bearing everything on it (even the jockey wheels on the derailleur!), and I'm not the least worried of any of them wearing out anytime soon, if my 20+ year old Ofmega CX hubs on my other bike's clincher wheelset are an indication on how long they can last without one having to bother with them.
JMOs

Chombi

I'm also a fan of cartridge bearings. I can't see any reason why they are the exception rather than the norm except that they a) probably cost more to manufacture and b) pro racers don't use them due to a ever so slight loss of efficiency.

You don't always need to replace them to service them. Check out this thread on how to renew the grease while leaving the bearing in place.

If you do decide to replace the bearings, just be careful to press on the proper inner or outer metal race when installing them. If the bearing is being pressed into something, press on the outer race. If you are pressing something into or through the bearing, press on the inner race. There are special tool sets made to do this but it's not hard to find sockets, washers, bushings, etc that you can use with a vise or threaded rod to push them together.

the sealed bearing wheels are pretty easy to work with and as SPB says there is likely just a little play. they do still have a thing that acts like a cone, depending on the model.

alot of the olde cartridge BBs just take a little time and patience to work with but most can be done with a bit of effort, a block of 2x4 and hammer

My experience with sealed cartridge hub bearings is that they can be almost impossible to remove with the correct tool.

When confronted with that situation, simply resign yourself to replacing them in pairs, and warm them up real good with a torch: Then they'll just pop right out with a screw driver (so easily, that you may have to duck!)

I like them because their durability is good, they're cheap and easy to replace (as above), and they make for one smooth running hub.

If the BB bearings are pressed in, then you may need outside help.
All depends on specifics, not said.

Cartridge bearings also DO HAVE a certain amount of play in them. They might feel loose simply because they click, but that play is built into the bearing and is normal and does not indicate a need for service. If the bearings are silent, not gritty and roll smooth, just leave them alone.

As for special tools it all depends on how the part was manufactured as to whether or not you need a press or some other tool. Old Phil hubs, you need an arbor press, new ones you don't, old Suntour hubs, just a special wrench..the bearings just slid in and out. If you have doubts, ask for guidance on your particular part.

I've never encountered a cartridge bearing hub that I could not service with common hand tools, but that includes an assortment of sockets (used as the press anvils and receiver cups) and a big bench vise. The "special" Suntour tool is nice, but not required and you can fabricate something like it for yourself, it's a pretty simple piece...or use a blind puller end from a slide hammer. As noted above: if the bearing just needs grease you can service it in place and save a lot of effort and possible grief and a small bit of cash: I'm sure I replaced a lot of bearings I could have just re-greased in place if I'd been a little less zealous.

Should not be a problem changing out either older Bottom Bracket or Hub sealed bearing cartridges.

On older hubs, in place of the cone, there is usually a "cone-like" flanged sleeve which passes through inner opening of the bearing. I don't have a good break-down view, but this Sansin hub is from 1985 and still spins wonderfully smooth. The cartridge bearing insert resting in the hub shell would be easy to replace.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3101/...8ae_z.jpg?zz=1
... here is the main page for this image:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/strongl...7605576341958/

Here is a simple, very inexpensive, and wonderful little bearing puller tool which can be used for removing hub bearing inserts - and dust covers too! It is only 55 mm. long, probably still sells for little more than $5, and should last forever despite the cheap appearance. These can be ordered through most bike shops from the big wholesale bike parts distributors, or check online as well. Worth every penny. :thumb:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3283/...ea5_z.jpg?zz=1
See more images showing how it can also be used for dust cover removal in the following set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/strongl...57603240644450


Many older cartridge-style bottom brackets used very simple bearing inserts which simply snap onto a flat section of the spindle - right where there would otherwise be a bearing race on more conventional axles. And the outer dimensions of the cartridges just sat on the flat sections in the cups. Here is a Stronglight version from the late 1970s. The original SKF bearings seen here are still available - as are many other modern cartridges which still have the exact same dimensions. As these bottom brackets gradually evolved, they would eventually acquire metal sleeves which gave an appearance of more modern sealed bearing units. But, initially those were really just fancy "crud-guards" - much like the earlier plastic spindle covers for cup and cone style BB sets:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/...ec5d98be_z.jpg
... original image page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stronglight/3792936806/

El clicko aqui: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...421&highlight=

What a great response (Or responses, to be exact). I sure know a lot more about sealed bearings than I did before I asked the question. Appreciate all the clear instructions including photos and the link to the other post on the subject.
It seems to me that one of the points to consider is that we who are working with classic and vintage bikes are dealing with an evolving design change and the term "sealed" seems to be a relative thing. It also has become clear to me why the 30 and 50 mile rides I have taken with my S10S were so smooth even though I really did not service the bearings in the hubs. In any case I will now feel less intimidated by the idea of servicing them if I have to. Thanks all.

Here is a simple, very inexpensive, and wonderful little bearing puller tool which can be used for removing hub bearing inserts - and dust covers too! It is only 55 mm. long, probably still sells for little more than $5, and should last forever despite the cheap appearance. These can be ordered through most bike shops from the big wholesale bike parts distributors, or check online as well. Worth every penny. :thumb:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3283/...ea5_z.jpg?zz=1
See more images showing how it can also be used for dust cover removal in the following set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/strongl...57603240644450
[/QUOTE]

that "enduro" is nearly the exact copy of the "special" SunTour bearing puller, except the ST also came with a steel rod you used as a handle...good to know they are still available by another name (tho I doubt mine will ever wear out)...Thanks!