Remove Campy 1-Key Crank
 

Hi everyone,

I've been reading all the posts on these forums regarding Campy cranksets that have the 7mm hex self-extracting bolts.

I've been able to remove the one on the non-drive side using a 7 mm Allen wrench and a filed down pin spanner. The outer collar has a left hand thread, so I unscrew the hex bolt (counter clockwise) a little bit until it tightens, then I unscrew the outer collar (clockwise) until it tightens. I did this until I was able to remove the bolt.

However, the same technique doesn't work on the drive side. The outer collar doesn't budge. I've read a lot of posts that say you only need the Allen wrench and a lot of force to remove the stubborn bolt since it's self-extracting, but I think since the outer collar is left hand threaded and the inner bolt is right hand threaded I need to unscrew both.

Either way, I'm guessing it might have seized or I'm not doing it right. I'm trying to avoid going to the LBS or buying the special tool.

I have an early 80s era Bianchi that this crankset is on. I'm not sure what set it is, but here are the markings on it along with the bolt:

http://www.mattstaniszewski.net/2011...2017.35.10.jpg

http://www.mattstaniszewski.net/2011...2017.28.05.jpg

Any help would be great.

Thanks guys!

Matt

+1.

The only requirement is that the self extractor ring ( aka collar) is threaded in nice and snug before you start so that it's engaging enough threads in the crankarm. Otherwise you can tear it right out of the crankarm when the crankbolt backs up against it and puts a lot of force against it. The whole point of the extractor ring is to just sit there, nice and secure, so that the crank bolt can back out against it, pulling the crank off the spindle.

That's it; lube it up and remove. Those Victory cranks have the self-extractors. :)

With that in mind I would tighten it a bit if you can to help gap things a bit, even a 1/8th or 1/4 turn clockwise should help getting lubricant in there.

I'm not sure I understand what you're attempting. All you should need to remove the arms is a 7mm allen wrench. You only need a pin wrench in the rare event you need to remove the self-extractor components from the arm.

Thanks everyone, I'll give it a shot when I get home from work tomorrow, it sounds so easy :)

Hi everyone,

Well, I tried all your advice and lubricated and attempted to loosen the self-extractor by turning clockwise with my 7mm allen wrench. Eventually, I tied down the non-drive side of the crack and was able to get enough leverage to get it turning. Unforunately, I think it sheared from the force. Now the center 7mm bolt spins freely. What do I do now to get it off?

Thanks!

Matt

You are going to have to remove the outer ring. It has two pin hole locations, it has LH threading. Campagnolo made a tool for this, but not the easiest nor the most difficult to find. With that removed from your description the top section of the bolt will fall out. Now you have some choices, use a puller, as found at an auto parts store or Sears, or buy a Campagnolo tool as found on ebay for C Record cranks which were also "one key" release.

Thanks, I had a feeling this was the case. Once I remove the crack, how will I get rid of the other half of the bolt?

If it was in hard enough to shear the head off, well, you may not get it out.

Bump
 

I'm dense so bear with me.

I have a crankset just like this one.

http://www.velobase.com/CompImages/C...CFDCCEE6B.jpeg

It has the self extracting bolts as shown. It is NOT connected to a BB spindle at the moment. The self extracting bolts are rusty and the crank is marred. I want to REMOVE the entire self extracting bolt from each arm so that I can treat the rust on the bolt and also remove the anodizing from the crank arms and polish them.

Just how do I remove the extracting bolts from the crank arm? Use a spanner and turn the ring with the two holes CLOCKWISE?

I do not have a spanner with pins small enough to fit in the bolt's holes. I would like to know where to get one. And neither I nor my LBS has a 7mm allen key. :rolleyes:

i had that problem with one of my campy cranks, some guy messed up the extractor bolt threading on the crank :(,

yes it is reverse thread to get it off and it was pretty hard to find a small enough pin spanner tool to fit into the pin holes, the LBS took it off for me kinda, i too would like to know what tool is required for removing the extractor bolts, i'm sure it's a campy made tool but don't know which one.

This is the extractor tool:
http://www.velobase.com/VeloImages/T...FF2DB35A3.jpeg
image courtesy Velobase.com

Thanks for the pic. Reckon that tool is pretty much unobtainium?

I found this article from Park. They claim the red handled pin spanner is the tool to use, but the pins are too big for the Campagnolo extractor bolts. I suppose I'll try two brad punches and see where that gets me.

Edit: Found the tool and bought it.