fuji america fork rake
 

does anybody have any clues as to where i could find fork rake and crown-axle measurements on the original fork from an early 1980s fuji america? i looked through the catalogs on classicfuji.com and came up with nothing but the head tube angle, which, well, is pretty inconclusive. i bent my original fork way out a while ago in a wreck. i tried a replacement from a local bike junkyard (kraynick's bike shop, pittsburgh, way awesome) but it gave wild toe overlap (about 2 inches). i then retired the bike permanently. but damn, it's such a nice bike, i want to try again.

I posted these spec sheets on my blog, see if this helps at all:

http://vintagefuji.posterous.com/fuj...echnical-guide

Scott

has exactly what i need. very perfect. thank you so much.

With that much overlap, it sounds like you bent the frame as well. Check around the points on the headlugs for ripples in the tubing and/or cracking in the paint. Both would be signs of bent tubes.

SP
Bend, OR

yeah, the frame did slightly bend, not visibly but with the paint crack signs, probably about a half degree max change in head tube angle.. but the overlap came from a combination of 1)angle change 2)only 27" forks/wheels/brakes available (made whole ride look a little goofy but it worked) and 3) way less rake! 60mm is the original.

now, i can't find any reasonably priced road forks with anything more than 45ish rake. anybody have a lead to a replacement with longgg rake?

I just looked at all the frame info, and that is an amazing collection of information! But I didn't see fork blade length. Rake is there, as are frame tube lengths and angles. Is one of your fork blades good enough to be measured?

To convert the geometry of my Trek 610 to that of a Fuji America, Boxdog Pelican, or Boulder Randonneur, I'm having a CrMo fork made for it by a local framebuilder. The price is going to be way lower than some of the well-known builders. I didn't find anything suitable out on the market, either. He's designing the fork to hold the frame level, give me 65 mm rake, and clear 32 mm with fenders. Ultimately it will be what it will be, but those are the targets. Details privately if you want to explore that.

I'd be very suspect of your frame integrity due to that unfortunate head-area bend, even as small as it is. Is there someone local who can help you assess it? Or can you post pics here and let us advise you?

i'll measure when i'm home, but to give you a rough idea, they fit 700x38 without fenders, probably no more.

as an extra bike i'm really not willing to invest much ca$h at all in this, BUT if this builder is near ann arbor, i could work with him when i pass through every few months to visit grand rapids.

i'm not an expert by an means, but best i can tell it's still very structurally sound. i'll post pics if i can. but also, i'm really only making this into a house extra bike for when friends visiting need one to ride with us or for really miserable days at work. i just don't want to let this frame die any younger than it has to.

Well just for reference, for a Woodrup I owned, the fork length is 377 mm from axle center to brake bolt. The radius of a 700c wheel is 311 mm to the rim, and for my 32 mm wheels, 347 mm to the tire edge. The actual clearance to the brake was then 30 mm to the center of the brake bolt, or about 20 mm to the bottom of the fork crown. I had fenders installed on the bike, filling in that 20 mm remaining space. If you could order a fork with a length of 377 mm, you'd be fine as far as tire clearance.

I've got an '81 America and I'll measure the fork if needed.

Scott