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Improve my Raleigh!

Old 05-05-11, 06:52 PM
  #151  
Amesja
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I have no intention of developing such expensive tastes. I really like the way the Kendas feel. The bike rides like a dream. It's the most responsive while comfortable bike I've ever ridden. I hardly even want to ride my Mt. Hood any more. Maybe that will change when I put the S7 IGH on it.
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Old 05-05-11, 11:40 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
Snarkypup, did you get your bike back yet? Are you still bikeless? How much did the wheelset end up costing you in the end between the rims and having the LBS lace them up?
Still bikeless. I'll update as soon as I get the dang thing back.
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Old 05-06-11, 05:53 AM
  #153  
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I can't wait for a comparison view of the new improved Raleigh versus The Creme.
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Old 05-06-11, 04:20 PM
  #154  
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Amesja, you should be reading her blog. You'll know more there.

cutiepup, that last entry was pretty good. It even had me fooled for a few seconds!
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Old 05-06-11, 05:32 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
cutiepup, that last entry was pretty good. It even had me fooled for a few seconds!
+1. I loved it! Very clever, very snarkily done - and funny. Is that a word? Snarkily, I mean. I know "funny" is a word.
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Old 05-06-11, 06:05 PM
  #156  
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I am reading the blog but when I asked that question she hadn't made the post quite yet (or my silly google reader blog software didn't tell me about the latest entry.)
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Old 05-07-11, 12:31 AM
  #157  
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Thanks, guys! The Creme is here! It's at the post office, actually. I'll pick it up tomorrow. I'm going to see how much of the assembly I can do myself, then see if Abarth is around in the afternoon to help me finish it.
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Old 05-07-11, 05:50 AM
  #158  
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Oooooh! Can't wait to see pics and a review at your site. Wish I was local i'd give you a hand spinning it together.
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Old 05-07-11, 10:07 AM
  #159  
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Sweet!!!!!!!!!
I look forward to seeing pics and hearing of your adventures. Let me guess..... you went to greet your new steed at the Post Office, and the only thing it had for you was a tee shirt that said "My Creme did the grand tour of NYC and all I got was this stupid T-shirt"
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Old 05-07-11, 10:09 AM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Aluminum rims will make a great deal of difference in wet conditions. The Sun CR-18 26" rim is a drop-in replacement for the original rims and is available in 32, 36, and 40 hole drillings.

I put some Tektro long reach dual pivot calipers on my daughter's resurrected Sports but found I had to replace the levers as well.

I am surprised that the Tektro 800 clear the fender and fit in the flats. The Alhonga's do not work. They are too thick with the oringinal fenders.
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Old 05-07-11, 10:20 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Schwinnsta View Post
I am surprised that the Tektro 800 clear the fender and fit in the flats. The Alhonga's do not work. They are too thick with the oringinal fenders.
The CR18's and the original Raleigh calipers are pretty tight with the fender clearance too. It was OK out front but in the rear it required a tiny bit of squishing. Then again my fenders are so beat up so maybe it was just me. Then I decided to re-use the original double-ended raleigh cable and made some shims for the brake shoes so it would grab the thinner rim and the fender clearance wasn't an issue any more.
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Old 03-03-15, 10:08 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
Bite the bullet? Why not lower the gearing? If you can't come close to spinning out, then it's too high. For my utility bikes I try to find a gear I can come close to spinning out when on level ground, in street clothes, and in an upright riding position. Anything else is unusably high unless there's a tailwind or you're riding downhill. However, you can still go downhill or ride in a tailwind after lowering the gearing, just not as fast, but that's a better compromise than a bike you can't take on hills.
I recalled this thread while rebuilding an AW.

There may be a flaw in the reasoning to make 3rd gear the main cruising gear.

Second gear is direct drive on most 3 speeds so the internal friction of the hub doesn't come into play because the sprocket is turning as fast as the hub.

In third gear, however, the planet gear shafts are turning in a plain bore under the weight of the rider, with only a thin film of oil to reduce friction.

There is also the controversy over whether older, pre-1980s AWs can slip into neutral from 3rd gear. There may be something to it.

Last, I think there may have been limits to how low the hub could be geared perhaps because the torque would be too high although that should probably only be a worry for heavier or stronger riders.

Last edited by garage sale GT; 03-04-15 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 03-03-15, 10:28 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
I recalled this thread while rebuilding an AW.

There may be a flaw in the reasoning to make 3rd gear the main cruising gear.

Second gear is direct drive on most 3 speeds so the internal friction of the hub doesn't come into play because the sprocket is turning as fast as the hub.

In third gear, however, the planet gear shafts are turning in a plain bore under the weight of the rider, with only a thin film of oil to reduce friction.

There is also the controversy over whether AWs can slip into neutral from 3rd gear. There may be something to it.

Last, I think there may have been limits to how low the hub could be geared perhaps because the torque would be too high although that should probably only be a worry for heavier or stronger riders.
I live in flatland, so spinning out is never an issue for me on an upright bike in street clothes where it's pretty rare to find a city block that is long enough to really get up to speed before there is an intersection. I'm running at 22 x 48 and it sure is nice having a lower 1st when I've got a loaded-up trailer on the back getting started at intersections. My knees are old, it hurts to mash. I don't think that low gearing really is an issue with breaking hubs until you get REALLY low in the 20's for gear-inches. Something about that in Sheldon's site somewhere. And then, only if you are really climbing up steep hills.
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Old 03-04-15, 09:23 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
I live in flatland, so spinning out is never an issue for me...
My main point is third gear incurs a lot more friction than second.
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Old 03-04-15, 09:28 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
My main point is third gear incurs a lot more friction than second.
True, but it shouldn't matter much, because by the time you're in third gear, you have something helping you go fast, such as a downhill or a tail wind. At this point, you can afford the small loss.
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Old 03-04-15, 09:48 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
My main point is third gear incurs a lot more friction than second.
A lot?

Some, maybe. I don't think it's much compared to other parasitical frictions from the wheel bearings, bottom bracket, pedals, chain, tires, dynohub, and wind drag. When all is said and done I don't think the difference between 2nd gear and 3rd on an AW hub would even make more of a difference than a rounding error at the 4th decimal point.
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Old 03-04-15, 11:06 AM
  #167  
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Second gear should be as efficient as a single speed hub because it's only the bearings at the end of the hub which are turning.

The planet gears have no bearings. The weight of the bike bears on them and their shafts. There's only enough oil in there to wet the parts.

So first and third should have more drag than second.

Last edited by garage sale GT; 03-04-15 at 01:13 PM.
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Old 03-04-15, 12:20 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by garage sale GT View Post
Second gear should be as efficient as a single speed hub because it's only the bearings at the end of the hub which are turning.

The planet gears have no bearings. The weight of the bike bears on them and their shafts. There's only enough oil in there to wet the parts.
That may be true, but after all these years of riding AW bikes with the usual 48/19 tooth ratio, I bought an old Rudge Sports where someone long ago installed a 44 tooth chainring and I find that I do prefer a lower overall gearing. I'm leaving it this way, but I will take this into consideration and keep some new planet gears and pins in my tool box.
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Old 03-04-15, 12:32 PM
  #169  
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If you're feeling brave, you could try an "SW" hub, which has a lower low and a higher high than the AW (0.72/1.0/1.38 versus 0.75/1.0/1.33 for the AW). SW hubs do have (ahem) some issues, though.
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Old 03-04-15, 01:26 PM
  #170  
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With a 22t rear cog the gearing is much more manageable, IMHO, than the ridiculous 18t stock cog.
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