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making a 1985 Miyata 210 into a functional light tourer

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making a 1985 Miyata 210 into a functional light tourer

Old 04-20-11, 02:00 PM
  #1  
smurf hunter
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making a 1985 Miyata 210 into a functional light tourer

I've been commuting on an old Miyata 210 a friend gave me. It fits me well and I've added a few touches that make it extremely comfy to ride.

The big concern I have are the wheels. The original 27" wheels had badly rusted spokes, were on the heavy side (this said from a guy weighing 210lbs). For amusement I put on a set of 700c Mavic classic pros that I also scored for free from a yard sale. I had to adjust the canti brakes, but the 700c wheels fit. With 700x35mm schwalbes this is a nice handling ride. I even got an 8spd cassette to shift. It took a little messing around with limit screws, but I've got almost 800 miles with this setup.

Issues:
  1. The brake track on these rims is really beat up and these won't last a whole lot longer.
  2. The wheels were out of true, out of tension when I got them. I've built a few sets of wheels and used my experience to straighten them out. Unfortunately the back wheel is again working itself out of tension (and true).
  3. I've no idea how to service the Mavic hubs. I'm normally a cup and cone shimano hub guy - but these were free.
  4. black rim/spoke/hubs on this bike looks stupid

see: https://www.flickr.com/photos/14139005@N02/sets/72157624954970683/

Initially I wanted to spend the absolute minimum on this bike. To date I've got around $50 into it, save for the Brooks B-17 I had already. I'm interested in building a wheelset, but not sure what components would be appropriate.
  1. Do I stick with 700c for modern tire selection?
  2. Do I go with a freehub/cassette to take advantage of modern parts?
  3. What about rear dropout spacing? I'm stretching to fit a 130mm axle now, but a 126mm hub wouldn't work in other modern bikes.

In any case, I don't need some "bomb proof", ultimate tourer. I need to be able to ride this around 18mph to get to work on time. Perhaps I should just build some sensible road rims out of modern components (ultegra hubs on velocity rims perhaps).

Thanks for any ideas or comments.
-Sean
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Old 04-20-11, 02:11 PM
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I'd say:

1) Yes, the tire selection is better for 700c, plus you'll get a little more fender clearance than if you stay 27".
2)+3) IMO, touring bikes deserve good wheels. So, cold-set the rear triangle to 135mm and get a set of Mavic A719 rims on Deore LX hubs with 36 spokes. Not the lightest, but then you have the option to do an actual loaded tour at some point. For commuting, good strong wheels are never a bad thing. I'd stay with 7 or 8-speed so you don't have to change the crank.
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Old 04-20-11, 02:24 PM
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Sounds like more of a commuter. I would be hunting some used wheels myself. In all the years of building, buying and selling bikes, I have never bought a single new wheel. OK, someday, it might happen. But it hasn't happened yet. I have built some wheels, typically replacing a damaged rim with another rim (used of course), or replacing a hub, or whatever.

There always seem to be people out there with wheels to sell, looking to upgrade to something better (moving from a 126mm rear to 130mm), or whatever. Most of the used wheels I have picked up come with a lot of free extras: tires, tubes, cassette.

Your example of finding Mavic Pros at a garage sale free certainly is a great example. Put up a WTB 700c wheelset in your bicycles for sale section of C/L (no one looks in the wanted section).
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Old 04-20-11, 02:28 PM
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Good tip on cold setting for a 135mm MTB rear hub. I really do like my crank/BB setup, though the chain ring config was setup for 1/2 step shifting if I understand correctly: 26/46/52

Thanks
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Old 04-20-11, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
In all the years of building, buying and selling bikes, I have never bought a single new wheel. OK, someday, it might happen. But it hasn't happened yet. I have built some wheels, typically replacing a damaged rim with another rim (used of course), or replacing a hub, or whatever.
I'm a bit of a dumpster diver myself. My LeMond has wheels I built from Dura Ace 7400 hubs from the mid 1990s, which in amazement to most everyone works flawlessly with my 10spd drive train. I would definitely look at used hubs, but I prefer new(er) rims, just to ensure they are structurally sound. Who wants to put in the time and effort lacing a wheel to find a flat spot on a rim?
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Old 04-20-11, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Sounds like more of a commuter. I would be hunting some used wheels myself. In all the years of building, buying and selling bikes, I have never bought a single new wheel. OK, someday, it might happen. But it hasn't happened yet. I have built some wheels, typically replacing a damaged rim with another rim (used of course), or replacing a hub, or whatever.

There always seem to be people out there with wheels to sell, looking to upgrade to something better (moving from a 126mm rear to 130mm), or whatever. Most of the used wheels I have picked up come with a lot of free extras: tires, tubes, cassette.

Your example of finding Mavic Pros at a garage sale free certainly is a great example. Put up a WTB 700c wheelset in your bicycles for sale section of C/L (no one looks in the wanted section).
i take the opposite approach. the most important parts of my bike (imo) are the wheels, and i like having new ones that i picked specifically for the purpose. i think VO wheels are a great deal for most applications (pbp for thinner tires, diagonale for wider ones). or you can get extra bombproof and get velocity synergy rims laced to 105s.

it is also nice to have cassette vs freewheels. lots of choices from 6-10 speed (8 speed is just right).

finally, i recommend 130mm vs 135mm. more choices, easier to trade wheels with other bikes, don't have to cold set your frame, etc.
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Old 04-20-11, 05:53 PM
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In my experience it's quite easy to find high quality, used 700c wheels for $100 or less and much, much harder to find anything decent in 27" size at any price. If you're planning to build wheels, then no problem with 27" but good used ones aren't easy to find.

And +1 on the 130mm freehub.
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Old 04-20-11, 06:37 PM
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sh, It reads like you've pretty well have a grip on the wheelset. I like Ultegra hubs, but Tiagra and 105 hubs work just as well while being wallet frendlier. For rims I'd look at Mavic A719, A319 or Sun CR18. The Suns don't have much of a channel and can be a bear to mount a stiff wire bead tire, I've no experiance with the two Mavic rims. I think with DB 14/15 DT spokes and brass nipples you'll have a 20 year wheelset.

Brad
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Old 04-20-11, 09:21 PM
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I just scored one of those myself from another forum member. Same color as yours with original 27" wheels. Yup, a bit heavy but it'll be perfect for my foray into touring. I don't mind the 27" wheels because I've got a few Panaracer Pasela 27x1.25 tires that I scored for like $10 each just sitting around. Mine also has fenders and a front rack already installed. Just need a rear rack and panniers. Oh and I need to figure what kind of pedals/cleats/shoes I'm going to run.

~kn
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Old 04-21-11, 08:58 AM
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I've owned and commuted on 130mm and 135mm freehubs. In my case every 135mm axle was on a bike with a MTB style drive train. I service my own hubs, and would feel comfortable swapping a 130mm axle into a MTB hub. Spacing aside, is an XT hub really stronger than an Ultegra? In theory the bearing surfaces should be the same (assuming same vintage).

On that note, these caught my eye:
https://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-Shimano-Deor...item3f093bc10b

I really dig the high polish and shape. "DX" is the forgotten group between LX and XT, so it's good quality for my purpose.
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Old 04-21-11, 09:08 AM
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Oooh... Purty hubs! The new ones are all angular. I might bid on those (just kidding!).

The bearing surfaces between the road and MTB hubs are pretty much the same, but MTB hubs make a slightly stronger wheel since there's 2.5 mm less dish. Also every touring wheelset is made these days on 135mm or wider hubs, usually with MTB hubs...
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Old 04-23-11, 11:04 AM
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I have an '85 Miyata 210 that I bought at a yard sale for ten bucks. It was originally tan. I had it painted at a local body shop, and put on a used set of wheels. Upgraded the drivetrain a bit and installed a B17. This bike rides like a dream. Very comfortable for all day riding.

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Old 04-23-11, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by grinningfool View Post
I have an '85 Miyata 210 that I bought at a yard sale for ten bucks. It was originally tan. I had it painted at a local body shop, and put on a used set of wheels. Upgraded the drivetrain a bit and installed a B17. This bike rides like a dream. Very comfortable for all day riding.

Nice!
Hope you included some pix in the "show us your classic touring bike thread"!


Wouldn't mind finding one those at a garage sale for ten bucks..
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Old 04-24-11, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cycleheimer View Post
Nice!
Hope you included some pix in the "show us your classic touring bike thread"!


Wouldn't mind finding one those at a garage sale for ten bucks..
Thanks for the compliment. It is in the thread you mentioned, though you'd have to wade through several back pages to find it. Probably the same photo or a similar one.
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Old 04-24-11, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by grinningfool View Post
Thanks for the compliment. It is in the thread you mentioned, though you'd have to wade through several back pages to find it. Probably the same photo or a similar one.
It's a seriously popular thread to post to. BTW, I also had to pay a whole bunch more for my full-blown touring bike
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