Help me identify this Cinelli!
 

My father-in-law brought by an awesome present today. His cousin had some old bike in his garage and thought he'd put it to good use by giving it to me. Well, he comes by today with a classic chrome Cinelli with Campy Record components. Anybody familiar with this frame, model, year, etc? Any help identifying would be greatly appreciated!

Its in awfully rough shape, and I just got it about an hour ago so haven't had a lot of time to look into it, meaning I'm not sure how extensive the corrosion and damage is... but pretty sweet none the less.

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0910.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0912.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0913.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0915.jpg

Yikes!
Fantastic.

Wow. Great bike.

From you pics, after 1961, probably before 1968. Need pics of the BB, RD and pretty much everything else for a more accurate date.

It is a Cinelli Super Corsa (SC). Top of the line.

And it isn't rough. I have a rough bike, will be posting pics later.

You don't see stuff like this turn up everyday. Love that plastic Gran Prix saddle. That's a nice piece of change right there. WD40 and fine steel wool incase you don't want to do the OA bath and disassemble everything. It has to be fine steel wool otherwise it WILL scratch the chrome. This will get rid of most of the rust on the chrome. Man I would kill for a bike like that.

Sweet, thanks for the info guys! Serial number puts it right at 1964. I'll get more pics of the componentry up tonight.

Fine BRASS wool is recommended over steel wool. I've used steel wool on flip bikes without incident but with this Cinelli, I wouldn't risk it.

I would try aluminum foil and vinegar before steel wool. Good luck and nice bike.

The chrome is chipping and flaking in quite a few places. Any way to prevent this further?

Please don't use steel wool. WD40 and paper towels to gently remove dirt/grit and then polish to buff the chrome. If there is still rust/corrosion, you can spot remove with oxalic soaked paper towels.

It is a great bike.

If you are going to sell it (I wouldn't!!) don't even touch it or clean it, take pics as found.

vjp

Sweet present. These kind of gifts don't show up every day.

I'm not going to sell it, at least for a couple years. I definitely have been looking for a project bike the last couple months and I couldn't find a better one. I'm going to try to keep as much original components as I can, but some things will just have to go.

There is quite a bit of surface rust on top of the chrome, especially around the BB area. Will oxalic work well for this?

I would not attack the chrom with anything before a soap and water bath for the whole bike.

very beautifull time capsule.

Alan, an oxalic soak is your best bet, really.

Well if there is a bike that would be suitable for an oxalic acid it would be this one. I personally would not immerse the frame decals because they are water slide applied and pretty delicate.

As far as I know you can't repair chipping chrome but you can help stop it growing by removing the flaked parts and gently feathering the remaining edge.

vjp

No. The serial number does not put it at 1964. Cinelli serial numbers prior to 1980 mean absolutely nothing. You cannot date that bike by the serial number. The fact that Model 61 brakes (1961) are on the bike instead of Model 68 (1968) or Campagnolo brakes give the date range.

In a very general sense, yes. But the '61's continued to be pretty common on bikes post 1967, especially among people with Italian frames who preferred centerpulls. Spence Wolf, who of course sold a lot of SC's, still had them as an available option in the late 60's at least. And it's also quite plausible that the Model 68 was actually in use before 1968, though perhaps mainly by pros. So while I agree that the brake model gives a good idea of the date range, I'd say it does so "more or less."

Oil ports? One or two? Date on RD? Dates on hub nuts?

Other than ditching the reflectors, I wouldn't change anything, other than perhaps choosing a saddle that you like the most . If you're looking to do any massive changes, I'd find another project bike to work on. She's a beauty, and should stay as complete as possible.

I wouldn't do an OA soak. A paste made from Barkeeper's Friend can be applied in specific areas and wiped off after a minute or two.

Do your research on cleaning chrome before going any further. Better to not touch this bike than to cause it any unintentional harm. She's really special .

This is exactly what I think you should do.

You can get those same decals on eBay, about $40, I think.
I bought nearly an identical set, including the headbadge decal, which you have as an actual badge.

Heed this advice.

-Kurt

Definitely a good idea to do research to find the most non-abrasive rust removal methods, and then test the one(s) you decide on in a small test area. BTW, anybody reading this think gently rubbing the corroded areas with C.L.R. on a toothbrush is worth a shot? O.P. may want to look into getting sections re-chromed, since this is a pretty decent bike.

Thanks for all the awesome insight and advice, its really appreciated.

I definitely want to keep this bike as original as possible, both for authenticity and because I don't have the kind of money to find replacement vintage campy components... but in its current state the bike is just not in rideable condition. Here's what needs to be done:

- Cables and housing must be changed - the housing is cracking and just won't cut it.
- The rims are shot. Something got on the front rim in storage and completely deteriorated it, corroding and cracking the aluminum. The rear rim might be salvagable but I'd want them to match. I hope to get tasteful 27" rims and rebuild them on the same hubs
- The tires are completely cracked and dryrotted.
- the bar tap I guess is usable, but absolutely disgusting
- the chain has frozen links

Everything else I completely plan to keep on there!

The surface rust got me worrying about the structural integrity of the frame, but I pulled out the seatpost and from what I can tell the internal tubes look completely clean. I guess we won't know for certain until the BB comes out, but I've got high hopes for it.

There were no dates of any sort I could find anywhere on the components, included the RD and hubs. And there were basically no numbers I could find short of the 13-26 printed on the back of the RD and "Strada 175" on the back of the crank arms. Here's some additional photos, hopefully something can be identifiable! Thanks again for the help.

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0933-1.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0940-1.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0936.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0935-1.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...i/IMG_0936.jpg
http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0934-1.jpg

Agh, just posted a lengthy detailed response but this site is screwy lately and timed out losing it. Anyway, soft brass brush like the kind for shoe-shining and automotive paste wax. Here's an example of the results I've had with that method:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5461623...7625325995422/

Go slow on this one!! That's too nice a bike for any type of botched attempt at restoration.

Record bronze, chrome plated derailleur was introduced in 1963 I believe.
step one: get that kick stand off there.
You've got a lot of work ahead of you, but it will be a labor of love.
Like the others have said, go slow. No harsh abrasives. Lots of TLC hand work.
cool find. Wish I had cousins like that.

Looks the front der has been changed out, there's no cable stop (even though cable housing and original clamp were left in place.)