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Frame Recommendations for Modern Build
Hey collectors/bike lovers...currently I commute with a 84 Trek 510. First older bike (and road bike too) and I enjoy how it feels; much more comfortable than my aluminum mountain bikes.
I want to build up a bike of similar feel (Reynolds or Columbus tubing) with modern components to have as a fast/recreational bike. So I turn to you to ask for frame suggestions. Thoughts...I don't want to build up a holy grail of a frame that is worth something to somebody. I could potentially collect parts slowly for my current bike and built it up. I could be just finding an excuse to build another bike. So in all seriousness, what is a decent quality frame to build up that isn't hundreds of dollars? |
Are you set on Reynolds/Columbus? Tange can be the beez kneez too.
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Size?
Can't go wrong here, great frame, great price, great seller: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...us-Max-55.5-tt |
Originally Posted by Puget Pounder
(Post 12628436)
Are you set on Reynolds/Columbus? Tange can be the beez kneez too.
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Originally Posted by bigbossman
(Post 12628446)
Size?
Can't go wrong here, great frame, great price, great seller: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...us-Max-55.5-tt |
What size?
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I know where you can PU and nice 54 cm Basso
I agree Tange frames should not be over looked. |
Originally Posted by jdefran
(Post 12628477)
It is purdy but wanna avoid spending hundreds of dollars if possible...easier to convince the wife that way
If you're looking to get a decent Columbus or 531 frame for $50 or so, you're gonna have to get REALLY lucky. and then you're gonna have to pay to have the rear triangle cold set properly. I really don't think you'll find anything of "decent quality" unless you spend at least $200 -$250 for a frame set, unless a stellar deal falls into your lap - or unless your definition of "decent quality" is flexible. |
Originally Posted by bigbossman
(Post 12628784)
Fair enough - but what is your budget?
If you're looking to get a decent Columbus or 531 frame for $50 or so, you're gonna have to get REALLY lucky. and then you're gonna have to pay to have the rear triangle cold set properly. I really don't think you'll find anything of "decent quality" unless you spend at least $200 -$250 for a frame set, unless a stellar deal falls into your lap - or unless your definition of "decent quality" is flexible. |
If you wanna use more modern components its probably smart to buy a frame that will take standard sized parts like ISO headset and Bottom Bracket and not oversize tubing. Recessed Brake mounts would be useful as well, but hardly necessary.
A late 70's - late 80's Japanese bike would fit the bill and can generally be had for less than comparable Italian Steel |
Get a Mercier Serpens from bikesdirect.com
Reynolds 853, Ultegra components last time I looked. |
Agreed, a 531 or Columbus frame will cost hundreds just because of the cache of the tubing sticker. Japanese frames of comparable quality can be had for much less. You'll get a complete bike for the price of a 531 or SL frameset.
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes
(Post 12629105)
Get a Mercier Serpens from bikesdirect.com
Reynolds 853, Ultegra components last time I looked. |
Originally Posted by Puget Pounder
(Post 12628987)
$200-$250 can get you a complete Centurion, Trek, Specialized, Fuji, etc with little hassle. Decent frames come up in my area for $100-$150 pretty often.
Columbus/Reynolds? That's what he asked about, and that's what I'm addressing. |
Originally Posted by bigbossman
(Post 12629152)
Columbus/Reynolds?
You said "anything of 'decent quality'" Just letting him know what he can get. |
Remember your compatability. You'll need 130mm rear spacing if you wanna run more gears and brifters. But 126 will work, just more of a pain. Try to get downtube shifter bosses so you can run cable stoppers on them. For stem, a new threadless fork on an older bike (1") is still possible. Much easier to play around stem length with newer non-quill stems.
Most important: have fun with what you are doing! |
A 58 usually fits, need a standover of about 32". As far as prices, I would like as cheap as possible but 100 bucks seems ideal (maybe I don't understand the market or I will need to be patient/actively searching).
If I could swing 1300 for the Mercier then I probably wouldn't be seeking your wisdom. So sounds like I need to find a tange Japanese frame... |
Originally Posted by Puget Pounder
(Post 12629181)
You said "anything of 'decent quality'".
Sure you can get decent quality Japanese frame sets, but they are not Columbus or Reynolds - which is what he specifically asked for. |
What's wrong with your Trek frame? It sounds like what you need more than anything are components. But if you need most or all the parts, it's usually cheaper to get a complete bike. The late 80's and early 90's was when they made lugged steel bikes with indexed shifting, cassette gears, freehubs, etc. You could pick up one of those for a decent price. They typically had a stiffer, racier ride than your Trek, if that's what you want. How "modern" do the parts need to be?
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Where are you located? I have to be honest with you, for what you are trying to do, for the price you can't do much better than a late 80s or early 90s Schwinn lugged frame. I've owned a handfull and my current favorite is a 1986 Tempo. With Shimano Light Action group, GLX cranks (double) and fairly heavy Weinmann rims it still weighs around 22 lbs. I is Columbus Tenax. You can research Columbus Tenax, it is decent stuff. Opinions vary, but it is said to be at least similar to Columbus SP.
There are or were, a couple of nice frames on Chicago CL. One was a Premis and the other a Circuit, both very nice. |
Originally Posted by bigbossman
(Post 12629262)
Yes - but please read the entire reply for context. I specifically used his terminology "decent quality". And I quoted his OP - requesting Columbus/Reynolds of decent quality.
Sure you can get decent quality Japanese frame sets, but they are not Columbus or Reynolds - which is what he specifically asked for. |
+1 on 80's Schwinn high end bikes, Peloton, Circuit, Super Sport, Tempo, Prelude, Premis,etc with Columbus tubing.
I just picked up a complete Peloton with a combination of Columbus SL and Sp tubing for $250: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3636/...f0ab1c61_z.jpg photo by vonfilm, on Flickr This Schwinn Super Sport frame and fork was $103 on ebay with Cloumbus Tenax tubing: http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5067/...e2885367_z.jpg 87SS1 by vonfilm, on Flickr In their 80's catalogs, Schwinn claimed the Peloton to weigh 20 lbs and the Super Sport 22 lbs. If you scour CL religiously you may be able to find an extremely good deal on one of these "old Schwinns". By the way what year is this Super Sport and where can I find a decal set for it? |
That color doesn't really show up in any of the catalogs that I looked at. I would guess 1987. Decals probably on Ebay or from one of the sources that are discussed here on the forum. Beautiful bikes all. I'm particularly jealous of the Peleton. Looks like a 23", my size......
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You could luck out and find a Columbus SL frame that might need major consmetic attention (refinish/repaint) That's the only way you can get them for cheap these days. But that will most likely mean you will lose the bike's graphic identity. Anything above Columbus SL level will be impssible to get cheap unless you are looking at major rust and other potential structural issues.
You can also set your sites a bit lower in the Columbus line and go instead for an Aelle or Tretubi frameset. Except for just a little bit more weight, I suspect that most "mortal" cyclists cannot really feel the difference between those and SL frame's ride. Same goes for the difference between Reynolds 501 and 531 tubing. There's hoards of 80's 501 tubed Peugeot (and a few Gitane) frames and whole bikes out there for the picking. JMOs Chombi |
Best bet is buy a complete bike, a nicer one. Then sell off the components and you should all of a sudden have a cheap frame. I bought my Prologue for about $250 on eBay, delivered. Came with Shimano 600 tricolor, which I did not want. Sold off the parts, and all of a sudden, the frame set was just about free.
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